jameschris777

Good evening everyone,

I am currently upset because I have put a lot of money into my 2001 Honda Civic LX only to have it crank but not start. I could really use some advice. The story goes that I drove it in the morning in the cold about a mile then came back and stopped at my work where I forgot something. I heard a noise then the car would not start. It wasn't clicking and all the lights were working. I found out that the timing belt had broken teeth and skipped after a lot of looking into starter and battery etc. I finally got it home and was hoping that none of the valves were bent. I ordered the Crank sensor, timing belt, Tensioner, Water pump, and a new Rocker arm because one broke. I proceeded to install said parts and after finishing did a valve adjustment. After the install of the parts, I noticed that the engine would crank but not start. I proceeded to check spark and it was getting none. I then listened for the fuel pump and it sounded that the fuel pump was priming when the key was turned on. I checked compression on the first cylinder and it had none. The car turns and turns but doesn't start. I tried starter fluid and that didn't get it to start. There were a few times where it sounded like it backfired but no start.

In summary, I put a tensioner and spring, water pump, timing belt, cam and crank seals, rocker arm and crank sensor. The car just turns over and no start. There is no compression in one cylinder and no spark. What are your thoughts? Is this possibly in need of new valves or could this be an electrical issue? Please let me know your thoughts. I'm going to proceed next by checking for spark at the coil packs with a node light then I will check for injection pulse and somehow check the Crank sensor and main relays with a multimeter and noid light. I also will double check the TDC because when doing the seals it may have got misaligned between crank and camshaft.

Another separate question is about two of the valve cover bolts that will not tighten all the way because they are stripped. Is there a way to bore new holes for the valve cover into the aluminum?

Thanks,
Christopher Barnett

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

01 is a 7th gen, not 6th.
moved to the correct section, mechanical troubles, engine no start.

plenty of other cases to see if yours match

Colin42

what are the compression numbers for all the cylinders? wet and dry

mac25

If you had no issues before the belt brock, and everything was reinstalled properly, then try jumping the battery.


Have to admit, the battery has tricked me before.

Slumpertcivic

You can rule out the crank sensor by unplugging it and seeing if the car will start. If it does, grab can electrical contract cleaner and spray out the contacts and after dry reconnect and try to start again. If it won’t then replace the sensor with a Actual Honda bought sensor.

As too bent valves and no compression on #1, once you get it starting just disconnect #1 fuel injector and drive till you can replace/repair the head.

(yes these engines can run surprising well on just three cylinders)

jameschris777

An updated on the civic: It's not the battery because it cranks fine and the battery is brand new. I will rent a compression tester tomorrow if I get a chance and do a wet and dry compression test to get all the numbers on the cylinders. I also will check spark and fuel. I tried the disconnect of the sensor and that didn't work.

When I looked at the timing mark it looks as if it is off by a few teeth on the crankshaft so I may need to pull it apart again and re-time it, unfortunately. This could be the entire problem. If there is no compression on the cylinders could it be that the timing is just off? I really hope that valves are not bent. When I first tried to start it, it sounded like a backfire and then a pop of smoke came through the exhaust manifold because it has a cracked exhaust manifold.

The only other issue besides the timing could be the main relay or fuel pump relay. It's not an alarm problem because that light goes out when cranking. Please let me know what you guys think. I currently have a multimeter, test light, and will get compression tester tomorrow to check numbers on each cylinder and post. Got people offer 5-600 dollars for the car, but I put over 1500 into it.

thanks,

jameschris777

I did a compression test the following are the results:
Cylinder 1= wet:0 Dry: 0
Cylinder 2= wet:0 Dry:0
Cylinder 3= wet:80 Dry: 60
Cylinder 4= wet:160 Dry:150

Oddly enough there is no compression in the first two cylinders. This suggests bent valves? when pulling the spark plugs out they smell contaminated with gasoline as well. Not sure how to proceed and the car will not run.

Colin42

bent valves on 3 out of 4 cylinders would be my guess

jameschris777

You are correct. I did get new valves and lap them into place. I also installed a new fuel filter as well. The car is still having the same issue. I have not checked compression yet but it cranks and doesn't start. It also drains the battery when cranking. Do you have any idea what could be causing this. I supose my next step is to check fuel spark compression again. I think it is some kind of short in the electrical system. I'm not sure where to start. ANY IDEAS?

Colin42

Timing is correct? Repeated cranking may have flooded the engine and the gas will wash down the cylinders making the engine lose compression. Try adding like a tablespoon of oil to each cylinder to help bring back compression. Can do a compression test to see how the engine is