Jhoff

I just installed a JDM automatic tranny into my 2002 Civic ex. The old one was toast. The new one was baught at JDM Source and was told was a low milage, good working tranny. It shifts perfect. It works perfect. I am getting a p0740 (TCC LOCK UP) malfunction? I erased the code, it came back on. I used OEM Honda ATF. Any help would be great?

ezone

Torque converter clutch - slippage detected.
See if they will send you another trans under warranty.

Jhoff

I don't understand why I would need to replace the transmission again. It works perfect. Is it just going to stop working soon because of this code. From my understanding, the tcc selenoid is detecting rpm drop at torque converter lock up.

ezone

No.
The TCC solenoid doesn't detect anything, it can only open and close a fluid passage.
The PCM does the detecting and decides when something is wrong.


The PCM detected an incorrect speed difference between the engine RPM and the mainshaft RPM while the TCC was applied.
Fail.
Code set.
Here is the actual criteria (if it matters) from the Honda site:
"The mainshaft speed is 89% - 99% or less than the engine speed (depending on vehicle speed and throttle position) for at least 16 seconds."




A few different possible causes for this, all are transmission related. Easiest is to see if the O ring on the snout got cut when the converter was slid on.

Also from the Honda info:
"If the O-ring is missing or cut, internal leakage of ATF can cause DTC P0740 to set."

Still a bunch of work though, gotta pull the trans back out.
If that O ring isn't damaged, then the problem is an internal transmission problem.


Question: Did you flush the transmission COOLER out before the install?
A cooler can hold debris from the previous trans failure, and that can come back out and cause damage to a new trans.
A factory reman trans comes with a small inline filter that must be installed in the cooler line, this protects the "new" trans (in addition to the power flush that is done to the cooler).



Assuming you did the above.....(because if you didn't do that, then you could be the cause of the damage):

You JUST GOT a "new to you" used trans, and it has a huge problem.

You got some sort of guarantee on this transmission, correct?
USE IT.
IMO, the seller should pony up and send you a good, working unit to replace the broken unit they sent you.
I'd suggest you contact them directly and see if they are going to do anything about their transmission.

HTH

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

sorry to say, but most defective trans were japanese, and none were really any good. even if you found a brand new trans, it too would eventually break, usually in less than 100k miles.

Jhoff

The torque converter never came off the tranny ever since I got it to damage any o rings. This isn't a reman, it came off of a low mileage car (30k) and was told that it had no problems and no codes when pulled. Jdm source is a refutable company so take their word thus far. I flushed the tranny cooler out very well. I flushed the tranny with oem Honda ATF. I contacted the company and they told me that if I removed the tranny and sent it back, they would
Test it on a tranny dyno and if it failed they would send me another. But like I said, the tranny works great. It only throws this code when I'm driving over 60 mph.

ezone

That code clearly indicates to me that the transmission is not working correctly.

I bet that watching the tach would also show me it isn't engaging the TCC.

Box it up and ship it back.

Hope their "machine" can show it as bad.

Jhoff

I dont mean to sound stupid, but can you give me an example of what I am looking for on the tach? It isn't irratic or seem too hi for the speed in going.

Jhoff

Ok, I read a lot of info on this and it veries quite a bit depending on where you read. I have read that I am to rest the pressure coming out of the tranny lines and see if they are in spec. If they are then it says to replace the tcc selenoid. I am also considering a tranny flush. I am reluctant to pull the tranny and send it back because it would be 300 dollars to ship it plus the ATF fluid to do it all over again. So here is what I will do for everyone on the web searching this issue. I will flush the tranny, get new selenoids and just drive it with the code on and see what happens. If it fails....it fails. I see a lot of people who just go drop 2500 at a dealership with this cel. I will have the tranny rebuilt if it fails.

ezone

At a steady speed and low load condition, such as 55MPH highway speed, the difference between TCC ON and TCC OFF is subtle, like maybe only 50-200 RPM, but I can watch the engagement happen on the tach most times when I am looking for it to occur. I can tell when it doesn't happen, same way.

If you spend a lot of time watching what it does when it was working correctly, it is far easier to pick out when it isn't quite right. Most regular people can't tell any difference though.


HTH

Jhoff

Yeah I probably wouldn't be able to notice...so sense sending the tranny back isn't cost effective ontop of the chane of it working in their "machine@ and sending it right back, how long do these things operate with such malfunctions? It really does shift smooth. Btw, if you google this issue and error code on this car, this thread is or if the main ones to look at. It seems as if this issue is generally unknown as to what to really do. I guess I will be the test dummy.

ezone

I really can't answer that.



I would hope it should shift through the gears just fine.
The main problem (code related) is only with the torque converter clutch lockup functions and/or their internal controls. There are many things that are internal to the trans that have to do with the lockup functions, in addition to the external solenoids.



At the shop, if we didn't find any issue with the O ring mentioned already, then it would probably just get replaced with a factory reman trans.
(We don't rebuild them in-house where I work.)

Jhoff

Update. I flushed the transmission. The code has not came back on since. Knock on wood.

ezone

Drive it on the highway.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

just saying, 30k is not low miles. i've seen plenty of these trans fail well under that mileage. the range is anywhere from 10k-100k on average and its just luck when they fail.

daveyd007

hi, is it still working right?? im having the same problem.

JJ291

Just saw your note here. Not sure if his is still running but let me tell you about mine. I had 145K, 2001, LX and it threw the dreaded P0740 code on a Houston freeway one day. I carry an OBD meter with me so I went ahead and looked into the code - obviously a bit concerned but it also threw another code at the same time and the service manual said to clear the other one first and then worry about the P0740. So I cleared both and it went away for about 3 weeks.

Then it came back. I cleared it again, it went away for a day, then it came back. Finally, it wouldn't clear. Obviously, I was concerned. I changed the fluid. Still came back. I bought some cheap tools and began the process of troubleshooting according to the manual. I just couldn't believe I had a problem because it seemed to drive fine and I didn't want to just "accept a new tranny". I measured the line pressure and it was within the service range. Then I checked the TCC and A&B solenoids. No problems there but I went ahead and replaced the TCC solenoid anyway.

Recognizing that I was fighting a losing battle because it was my daily driver, I really only saw three alternatives:
1) Go the dealer route - $3.3K and a 3 year warranty.
2) Swap with a reman - $2K from the dealer, or find an alternative reman
3) Have it rebuilt - call it the Aamco route

I decided to go with alternative 2 and dive in head first. (Side note: Option 1 - expensive and warranty didn't seem much more than a reman to me, Option 3 seemed like once they "tore in" and found the problem they had you by the you know who's ... it's not like you would have them put it back together and take it somewhere else). I've done a lot of car maintenance but I didn't grow up with a "car dad" and so I've learned everything from books, manuals, forums, etc. It took several weeks to plan it out and I ended up buying the reman transmission from Synchrotech.

I began to hear a "whining" sound when the light came on and stayed on. This car is my daily driver and makes a 70 mi daily commute. So in answer to your question, mine lasted about 2100 miles (that's about 7 weeks, 30 trips x 70). It never officially failed but I could notice a significant drag in the transmission, and was running higher RPM's over 55 mph by the end.

I had to spend some money to do the swap but in the end I pulled the engine and transmission out the top (I agonized over whether to do tranny out the bottom or both out the top and in the end it was really pretty simple). I did my transmission, flex plate, rear seal, all 4 engine mounts, timing belt, crank seal, fixed my leaking oil pan, p/s - alt belts, and went ahead and did the radiator also (didn't realize the tranny came with an inline filter). I spent about 1800 bucks after tools, equipment, etc. but feel like the experience alone was worth it. So far so good on the transmission. No codes and it shifts smoothly except for 2-3 which is a little squirrely. I did have to replace the shift indicator but it's all good - it wasn't actually included with the reman but mine had one on there. I'm intending to post a lot more on this soon but figured I'd better drive it for a while before I claim victory. I can't say enough about the Synchrotech service - everybody that posted good things about them was right.

I'm a total amateur compared to the guys on this forum but hopefully that helps you.

johndeerebones

Do a search with my user name from ~summer of 2011. I rebuilt my own. Not for the faint of heart, but there was some good info in that thread. I was a mechanic, so wrenches don't scare me, it is a few pages of information though...

saune23

I have the same problem, anyone found the solution?

2uhealth

Hello all. I'm brand new here and was hoping to gain some insight. I have a 2003 Civic EX 1.7 Vtec. I just bought a low mileage (44,500) engine and transmission combo from a JDM dealer in Canada. The engine runs great. The transmission shifts smooth, but as soon as you put it on the freeway and get speeds up over 60-65, she throws the P0740 code.

I swapped the two solenoids with my old tranny, to no avail. I searched the internet and found two websites selling these transmissions who say that the Japan import transmissions won't work in Canada made cars (first characters of VIN are a 2 or 3). I did lose the low gear (D2) but I didn't care about that as long as the tranny ran on the freeway.

The only thing wrong is that the tranny won't "lock up" at highway speeds. Does anyone know why these Japanese imports from JDM act this way and how to fix it. I even swapped out the ECU I got with the set up and then I couldn't start the car. I am stuck. Thanks for listening.

ezone

You'd have to get the immobilizer system programmed by the dealer in order to run on the JDM computer?

2uhealth

Thanks for the reply. That makes perfectly good sense. Once it's programed though, do you think that will also enable the transmission to run properly on the new ECU, or am I still stuck with a tranny that will never work right in my Canadian made EX? Thanks for your input.

ezone

I can't answer that.

I have no idea what differences there may be in the trans or computer, or why there would be any differences in the first place.
I mostly deal with strictly stock US market cars where I work.

Maybe google?

I'd assume the trans and PCM came as a matched set and will work together?


Did you break the connector from the TCC solenoid? Wiring problems? Both are common problems, especially after an R+R.

2uhealth

No, I double checked everything and it all looks good. The car actually runs very well, but with only the problem of the tranny being unable to lock up in overdrive. I think I might try doing the re-programing. I can't see how a car in Japan would run ok with the same engine, tranny and ECU and take all of those items and put them in a car here and it won't work. I think it's worth a shot before purchasing another tranny.

Thanks for your time. I'm glad I tried posting here. This beat banging my head against the wall .

ezone

Call around for prices on programming the immobilizer (You may need to explain thoroughly). My dealer is cheaper than the other 3 closest dealers.

Also check indy shops that specialize in Hondas....
And check local locksmiths.
Someone who has made investments in specialized tooling might be out there.


In my town, the dealer is the only place that has the equipment to program these.

2uhealth

Thanks Ezone. I'll begin the calling process tomorrow. It sure won't hurt to ask. I'm sure I am not the only person that has run into this with JDM replacements. I'll come back here to update as soon as I get answers. Thanks again.

2uhealth

If you don't mind me asking, what basic range of pricing should I be expecting them to quote me from the dealer for the re-programing?

ezone

It can vary a whole lot.
My guess USD $75 and up at a dealer?
More $ if they have to swap the PCM for you, so make sure you can do the swap in the parking lot so all they have to do is connect scanner and program it..

I usually tell people to bolt in the new PCM but connect the wiring to the original so it can be driven instead of towed, then connect wiring to the new one in their parking lot.
Make sure to park close to the shop to make it easy on the techs, our scanners usually need to be able to reach the wifi! (it's faster if mine is on the wifi anyway.)



May be cheaper if you find other source like locksmith or indy shop.



MAKE SURE TO TAKE ALL OF YOUR KEYS !!!!

honda2003

I have the same exact scenario, bought a JDM 2003 Japanese tranny for my US made civic. Tranny looked new 16,000 miles on it. No torque lock up, shifts great. Did you ever find the solution to the lock up problem? ( cleaned and tested all old solenoids and sensors, wiring looks good) No D2 also.

honda2003

I have the same exact scenario, bought a JDM 2003 Japanese tranny for my US made civic. Tranny looked new 16,000 miles on it. No torque lock up, shifts great. Did you ever find the solution to the lock up problem? ( cleaned and tested all old solenoids and sensors, wiring looks good) No D2 also.