Rep Power: 0

Hey y'all,

I'm having an issue with the startup and acceleration on my '98 Civic EX. It starts, but sputters. Kind of feels like only half the engine is on or something. Idles kinda rough. When driving the power isn't responsive to pushing down on the gas pedal so much. The acceleration is just slow.

I changed the exhaust manifold gasket last week along with the vtec solenoid gasket, distributor o-ring, and valve cover gasket then took it on about 4, 15-20 minute drives afterwards with no issue. Could the changes have sparked an issue? My check engine came on about a week before that with the codes P0705 and p1456. Maybe bad spark plugs? It is just so sudden. I don't want to say goodbye just yet. Thanks y'all!

 
Rep Power: 211

Did you notch in a mark on the distributor base and cylinder head before removing distributor to keep ignition timing correct? If not, jumper the service connector and set ignition timing with a timing light.

Check mechanical timing (crank, cam, timing belt) also...may have jumped a tooth or two.

Do a power balance test at idle by slowly lifting spark plug wires one at a time off the respective spark plug. RPM's should drop after the wire separates a bit from the plugs and you should be able to hear spark arc as well. If idle doesn't change then there's an issue with spark or compression. Afterwards do the same test by removing fuel injectors harness one at a time while spark plug wires are connected..idle should drop and if not injector(s) not working or no/low compression in cylinder.

P0705: https://www.obd-codes.com/p0705 Probably a generic false code for this car.

P1456: https://www.simple-car-answers.com/H...DTC-P1456.html

 
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I made sure to draw a line and replace the distributor cap on properly. Why would the timing belt jump teeth if I only replaced the valve cover gasket? I never did anything on the cam side of the engine.

So,I started up my car and it sounded normal. I pulled the plug wires one at a time and idle dropped. I was getting the spark to arc on each wire. Before I could get to the injection harnesses the engine began to sound choppy again. I pulled wire #1, idle dropped, replaced it. I pulled wire #2, idle dropped and the engine shut off. Now I can't get it to turn back on. Checked the plugs themselves, and they seem alright; I will post photos of them.

Maybe it's just time for a timing belt change? I'm going to take the cap off the distributor and see if anything is bad in there. I had it changed about 8 months ago, and the mechanics might have put a cheap replacement on. Thanks for the help!

 
Rep Power: 0

 
Rep Power: 211

Spark plugs look fine. Before you jump (no pun) to replacing the time belt, first check mechanical (crank, cam timing) as soon as possible. If all timing marks line up at first cylinder TDC then next step is to check ignition coil arc with grounded flat head screwdriver near ignition coil when cranking engine.

 
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Checked mechanical timing. All is good. Pointer aligned with one notch on crankshaft pulley. Notches on cam are aligned with cylinder head. First piston is at top dead center.

​I'll have to check some videos on how to do the coil test. do you think there's anything else that could be causing the problem? Would it be the fuel injection problem that I never got to test? I do smell fuel after trying to start it, though. I guess I have to do a compression test and the othings you suggested. I tried to start it again, and it fired up once and then died almost immediately.

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Pointer aligned with single notch. Couldn't get a good angle directly over it.


Notch aligned with head

 
Rep Power: 224

Is the crankshaft mark really lining up? Picture makes it look like it's off.

 
Rep Power: 211

ETCG shows a distributor spark/arc test in the video below. Can use a test light like he is using or a grounded screwdriver (don't touch screwdriver shaft during test). I used one side of jumper cables to clamp a chassis ground to a long flathead screwdriver"s shaft. I removed the distributor cap so I could test the ignition coil directly (as shown in video). A weak coil will not have much arc/spark and this test will usually cause a weak coil to completely fail, but that is a sure sign it needed replacement.
A strong coil will arc almost an inch or so and will not be damaged by this test. If it needs coil replacement only go with an oem replacement which is either TEC or Hitachi depending on the distributor used in your engine.

 
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I couldn't get a good angle with proper lighting to show them aligned. When one looks directly over the pointer, it is aligned with the single mark on the crankshaft.

 
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I appreciate the week of help! @HR Puffinblunts
I might not want to go through the whole of a test. I'll probably just replace the part this weekend and circle back if (read: when) it doesn't solve the problem.

 
Rep Power: 211