When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
ExteriorPost your issues with Exterior parts here!
Exterior covers Body, Doors, Locks, Physical Removal/install lights, Hoods, fenders, etc.
For Fundamentally Electrical issues, post on Electrical
I've actually heard pretty good things about those LED bulbs. Since you've changed bulbs, it should be a no-brainer. Only difference is you're not plugging the factory harness into the bulb base itself. Rather, you're plugging it into the pigtail that extends from the LED bulb base. Actually might be easier to install than regular halogens due to that fact
Canbus installed. Only needed the high beams done. DRL is off.
Haven't been out out at night since the led’s were installed. But they are much whiter and brighter.
i tell you what though. Honda’s are a bitch to work on the headlights. The passenger side is brutal to work on. Had to pull the wheel well back. Arms are scarped and bruised up from reaching around stiff. Tight fit.
Ok something has come up. After working perfect for almost a month. The DRL light is coming back on. Fine maybe I got a bad resistor. The weird thing is if I flash the brights it goes off and stays off until next time I start the car.
Ideas or suggestions
I just realized that I didn’t use bulb grease when installing the bulbs. Gonna go back and use it 🤞
Sandro, depends on the headlight configuration. 01-03, yeah, lose high beam because the dual filament h4 bulb. 04-19 you don't bc separate high/low beam (9005/9006)
Ok. Did some testing. Applied bulb grease to all connections
start car-DRL light comes on, turn on headlights DRL goes off, turn head lights off, DRL comes back on
start car- DRL light comes on, flash brights DRL turns off and stays off until I start the car again. I have turned headlights on and off while driving and it still stays off until restart.
Any ideas. My only thought is a bad resistor. I would need to replace both to check. Weather is crap and I don’t have a garage so I can’t do much else until rains stops
i reached out to Hikari and am waiting for an answer
not sure, but is led lights supposed to have high beams? I know that we lose high beams when installing HID type lights
About Honda accessibility... Adjusting the headlights will have you calling Honda even further names... Very hard to get to the adjustment bolts...
With the correct bulbs, you do not lose your high beams when converting to LEDs, even if you have H4 (or other dual filament) type fixtures. The H4 LED retrofits we have, for example, have separate sets of (appropriately aimed) diodes for high and low beam, so you maintain full functionality.
Originally Posted by EarleD
Ok. Did some testing. Applied bulb grease to all connections
start car-DRL light comes on, turn on headlights DRL goes off, turn head lights off, DRL comes back on
start car- DRL light comes on, flash brights DRL turns off and stays off until I start the car again. I have turned headlights on and off while driving and it still stays off until restart.
Any ideas. My only thought is a bad resistor. I would need to replace both to check. Weather is crap and I don’t have a garage so I can’t do much else until rains stops
i reached out to Hikari and am waiting for an answer
Thanks
It sounds like your vehicle DRL is essentially a low power state of the high beam bulb. The light goes off when your headlights are on, because the vehicle is no longer trying to run in DRL mode. Similarly, when you flash your lights, the high beam checks out for the vehicle computer, which likely resets the error until the next time the car tries to start the DRL. The overall challenge here is having the correct resistance and not necessarily more, so I'd suggest testing the LED bulb and resistor with a multimeter (in resistance mode) compared to the old halogen, to get an idea of what direction you need to go in.
It sounds like your vehicle DRL is essentially a low power state of the high beam bulb. The light goes off when your headlights are on, because the vehicle is no longer trying to run in DRL mode. Similarly, when you flash your lights, the high beam checks out for the vehicle computer, which likely resets the error until the next time the car tries to start the DRL. The overall challenge here is having the correct resistance and not necessarily more, so I'd suggest testing the LED bulb and resistor with a multimeter (in resistance mode) compared to the old halogen, to get an idea of what direction you need to go in.
The weird thing is that the resistors were working perfect for 3 weeks. Suddenly the drl light popped back on.
That's certainly bizarre - could be a shorted internal connection somewhere. Have you tried using a capacitive decoder instead? Those tend to be more reliable, and with less power drain.
I’m showing my inexperience here but what is a cap decoder?
Hikari answered my question. Thumbs up for the quick answer. They suggested using. 2 resistors on each bulb.
Im gonna just replace the ones I’m currently using. They are sending a replacement set at 99% off. Total cost 21¢. Not sure if using 2 inline is a good idea. Would this course any problems.
I did forget to mention that I installed a back up camera just before the problem surfaced. Wasn’t even thinking about it because connections were in the rear of the car. Could this be related?
"Marge, anyone could miss Canada! All tucked away down there."
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 9,637
Likes: 1,283
From: Barrie, ON Canada
Rep Power: 222
Re: Headlight upgrade.
well if it does "night vision" when its dark out and you have the lights on then they probably tapped into the taillight circuit, probably not related to drl problem though.
what resistance are the resistors that you want to use?
These are the resistors that I’m currently using. They sent me another pair. Should be here tomorrow. I’ll ohm them out when they arrive. And will them compare to the set in the car now. They recommended using 2 per bulb. I’m currently only using on the hi beams. Should I use them on the low beams also.
and yes it has lights on the camera that turn on at night
I’m showing my inexperience here but what is a cap decoder?
Hikari answered my question. Thumbs up for the quick answer. They suggested using. 2 resistors on each bulb.
Im gonna just replace the ones I’m currently using. They are sending a replacement set at 99% off. Total cost 21¢. Not sure if using 2 inline is a good idea. Would this course any problems.
I did forget to mention that I installed a back up camera just before the problem surfaced. Wasn’t even thinking about it because connections were in the rear of the car. Could this be related?
A capacitive decoder has the same goal, except it uses a capacitor instead of a resistor to increase electrical load on the circuit. Capacitors are more expensive to produce, but are more efficient since they don't focus on turning energy into pointless heat and can be more reliable. For what it's worth, the ones you linked below look like capacitive ones by design.
Originally Posted by EarleD
These are the resistors that I’m currently using. They sent me another pair. Should be here tomorrow. I’ll ohm them out when they arrive. And will them compare to the set in the car now. They recommended using 2 per bulb. I’m currently only using on the hi beams. Should I use them on the low beams also.
and yes it has lights on the camera that turn on at night
I haven't come across a situation requiring 2 sets of resistors, but curious to see how this works out for you. I wouldn't recommend using them on the low beams if you're not having any issues without - keeping the system as simple as possible is typically the best.
Well I found the problem. I don’t know how I missed it the first time. Must not have been as bad. It was rubbing against the belt. Guess I’m not ready to take on anything much harder than basic maintenance. Lol
anyways the new resistor is installed. And properly mounted to the car. I opened up the old one after realizing it was trash.
Is this Cap decoder?
Well I found the problem. I don’t know how I missed it the first time. Must not have been as bad. It was rubbing against the belt. Guess I’m not ready to take on anything much harder than basic maintenance. Lol
anyways the new resistor is installed. And properly mounted to the car. I opened up the old one after realizing it was trash.
Is this Cap decoder?
Ooh that looks painful (for the wire). Glad you found the issue, and yes that looks like a capacitive decoder!
Well guess what is back on. My DRL light. Don’t get it. Everything is mounted and looks good. I think I have a extra resistor so I’m gonna try that later today. Any thoughts?
Any ideas? I have done some testing. When I start the car and don’t turn on headlight. Drl is on and running lights are off. Flash the brights drl goes off and running light go on and stay on until next time car starts.
Turn on headlight drl goes off. Turn them off drl goes off
