attempt to replace brake pad, but nut and bolt cross-threaded, any self rescue option
#1
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attempt to replace brake pad, but nut and bolt cross-threaded, any self rescue option
I smell some burning odor on the right front side of Honda civic. I bought pad, rotor and caliper. I intended to replace pad/rotor from both sides, but only change the caliper on the right side.
While removing the lug nuts, one of them on the left tire is super tight. I use long bar and foot to step on it, and it moved a little bit then stuck. I tried to move clockwise to see what happened. I end up can only turn back and forth in 15 degree. If I use more force counter clockwise, the bar move to a new position then stuck. And I can still only move back and forth in that new position for about 15 degree. I am not sure if I screw up the thread, and stud and lug nuts bite each other?
here is a video:
I apply penetration oil, and sit for 1 hour. the situation doesn't change.
I have this Ryobi impact driver, but I am not sure if that help?
should I tried more force, and hope it will get loose, then find a way to replace the stud by this method (http://extremehowto.com/replace-broken-lug-nut-stud/)?
Is it better off to take car to garage? I went to this shop replace pad and rotor last year, and two months ago did some tire rotation there. I wonder if they might apply too much torque
While removing the lug nuts, one of them on the left tire is super tight. I use long bar and foot to step on it, and it moved a little bit then stuck. I tried to move clockwise to see what happened. I end up can only turn back and forth in 15 degree. If I use more force counter clockwise, the bar move to a new position then stuck. And I can still only move back and forth in that new position for about 15 degree. I am not sure if I screw up the thread, and stud and lug nuts bite each other?
here is a video:
I apply penetration oil, and sit for 1 hour. the situation doesn't change.
I have this Ryobi impact driver, but I am not sure if that help?
should I tried more force, and hope it will get loose, then find a way to replace the stud by this method (http://extremehowto.com/replace-broken-lug-nut-stud/)?
Is it better off to take car to garage? I went to this shop replace pad and rotor last year, and two months ago did some tire rotation there. I wonder if they might apply too much torque
Last edited by hiac; 07-16-2017 at 07:20 PM.
#2
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: attempt to replace brake pad, but nut and bolt cross-threaded, any self rescue op
A problem such as that is typically blamed on the last person to remove and install the wheels (probably overtightened them, or threads were damaged during last assembly). Take it back to the shop that last rotated the tires and see if they will take care of their error.
#3
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Re: attempt to replace brake pad, but nut and bolt cross-threaded, any self rescue op
Hi ezone, Thank you for your suggestion. My last two brake service is in this shop. The owner is decent, the guy who did the job is meh. what's the best way to put it when talk to them. I am worry if I mentioned the stuck lug nuts, they might say I strip it when trying to take it off... what might be a good strategy?
#4
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: attempt to replace brake pad, but nut and bolt cross-threaded, any self rescue op
they might say I strip it when trying to take it off
You cannot cause new damage by removing the lug nut.
You only discovered the damage by attempting to remove the lugnut.
The problem would have been discovered by whomever next attempted to remove it.
The damage was present when it was last assembled.
If you are a regular customer at that shop, that's in your favor.
If you're a floater then that shop is much less likely to help, as they won't be sure they were last to touch your tires.
If the mechanic is a flake, the owner probably has had more than just yourself come back with issues.
#5
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Re: attempt to replace brake pad, but nut and bolt cross-threaded, any self rescue op
the lug nuts on the right side are easy to take out.
the lug nuts on the left side are all tight (very tight), making that metal squeeze noise. All eventually got loose with patient. Only this one nut (the last one) got super tight, the more I turn, it got tighter, For a moment I thought I may turn the wrong direction. luckily I am counter clockwise...
I am frequent customer. this shop is recommended by O'Reilly almost 5 years. They only do brake, otherwise I will visit them more often.
I will see what will happened tomorrow. I did some research online and it seems like it might be 15 min job to remove and replace it, may cost $75... I will see how it pan out tomorrow.
btw, these lugnut are self tighten, the way the tire rotate will make the lugnut tight. Is that possible cause, instead of a human error.
Thank you ezone!
the lug nuts on the left side are all tight (very tight), making that metal squeeze noise. All eventually got loose with patient. Only this one nut (the last one) got super tight, the more I turn, it got tighter, For a moment I thought I may turn the wrong direction. luckily I am counter clockwise...
I am frequent customer. this shop is recommended by O'Reilly almost 5 years. They only do brake, otherwise I will visit them more often.
I will see what will happened tomorrow. I did some research online and it seems like it might be 15 min job to remove and replace it, may cost $75... I will see how it pan out tomorrow.
btw, these lugnut are self tighten, the way the tire rotate will make the lugnut tight. Is that possible cause, instead of a human error.
Thank you ezone!
#6
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: attempt to replace brake pad, but nut and bolt cross-threaded, any self rescue op
btw, these lugnut are self tighten, the way the tire rotate will make the lugnut tight.
You're thinking of a situation where someone left the lug nuts LOOSE.
One side of the car can toss the lugnuts off, while the other side of the car can break all the studs off. I can also tell you it really doesn't always happen that way.
If yours had been correctly tightened (torqued to 80 foot-pounds) in the first place, the nut would never move without a wrench on it.
the lug nuts on the right side are easy to take out.
the lug nuts on the left side are all tight (very tight)
#7
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Re: attempt to replace brake pad, but nut and bolt cross-threaded, any self rescue op
If what you said were true, then every car on the planet would have no wheels on one side, because they would all have broken or stripped wheel studs on that side.
You're thinking of a situation where someone left the lug nuts LOOSE.
One side of the car can toss the lugnuts off, while the other side of the car can break all the studs off. I can also tell you it really doesn't always happen that way.
If yours had been correctly tightened (torqued to 80 foot-pounds) in the first place, the nut would never move without a wrench on it.
I'm thinking they had 2 mechanics with 2 different impact guns, one on each side of the car.
You're thinking of a situation where someone left the lug nuts LOOSE.
One side of the car can toss the lugnuts off, while the other side of the car can break all the studs off. I can also tell you it really doesn't always happen that way.
If yours had been correctly tightened (torqued to 80 foot-pounds) in the first place, the nut would never move without a wrench on it.
I'm thinking they had 2 mechanics with 2 different impact guns, one on each side of the car.
THank you!