Mechanical Problems/Vehicle Issues and Fix-it Forum If you've got a problem you just can't figure out, a noise you can't diagnose, or a Check Engine Light that won't go away, ask about it here!

lug nuts, tire pressure, and pulsation

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jul 17, 2017
  #1  
hiac's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered!!
 
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
Rep Power: 0
hiac is an unknown quantity at this point
lug nuts, tire pressure, and pulsation

http://imgur.com/a/It24T

I did brake service in this shop last winter, and in May there is some pulsation and occasionally brake burning odor, the shop said there is some nose diving when car stop which cause the front brake burning, so he adjust rear brake. The issue seems get better but not go away. Today I bring the car in again.

the guy did a test run and said no issue found, but he said he notice my front tire's pressure is too low, only 30, this will cause tire wear and not balance, and the max allowed pressure in my Michelin tire is 44. He inflated the front tire to 40, and rear tire keep as 30. I pointed out the recommended tire pressure printed on the door jam which is 30, he pretty much ignore it. He want to send me home without even take the tire off. I asked him at least check if pad/rod/caliber need replaced. He first reluctant but eventually he agree. Shortly he came back saying one of the lug nuts won't come off. If I still want the tire take off, and he break it, then I need to pay for the fix. I stated the fact that he did the last two brake service, and I didn't take to other shop, he is not convinced. I agree to pay and he did his work.

The lug nuts break off, he didn't remove the whole hub. After a lot of hammer and bang, here is end result:
http://imgur.com/a/It24T

**Five questions I need your help**

1) they didn't use lug nuts with the head, I am not sure if it's due to lack of room. Should I replace it with the lug nuts with head?

I went to Honda dealer and purchased the OEM one. I need your opinion if it's better to keep as is and don't touch it. The immediate downside is that the dirt might get into the bolt/thread and making future removal difficult? I asked him if I am able to use my tool to loose this lug nut. He said "why should you do that if we do all your brake work". I attempt to loose it just to test the torque, it's super tight. I don't want to go further.


2) Should I apply some anti-freeze gel (some left over from o2 sensor package) to this headless lug nuts, and it might be helpful for future removal?
what's the best home tool to remove lug nuts for hobbyist? I don't have air compressor at home.

3) for Honda civic, to replace the front studs, the whole hub has to be removed, apparently he didn't. I tried to ask him how he did it but he has no patient. judging by the banging sound, I am thinking he might push the stud in a angle and hit it hard. I asked this because when I drove home I heard some unfamiliar metal click sound (not loud) from the front. I am not sure if it's due to the hammer banging and something got bend.

4) the air pressure thing, I am not sure if he is trying to find an excuse to send me home, or there is some merit to it. I just feel front 40 psi and rear 30 psi seems weird combination. Once I got home, I get them back to 30. I saw tire picture when over-inflate or under-inflate, I didn't see my tire has such wear pattern. But I think he must have a reason. Later the boss also come and ask me why I under-inflate the tire.

5) when drove on highway, the pulsation is still there even I didn't brake, same as before. And if driving on local, after 20 min (10 miles) the pulsation start to happen. The weird thing is that there is no issue when cold start, and the pulsation happen after I drive for a while (usually 20 minutes). The next step for me is to replace front pad/rod/caliber, or go to bell tire to do a balance ($10/tire). judging by the symptoms, do you think out-of-balance could be the primary cause?

Last but more important question, how do you find out your favorite shop? Finding a reliable shop is not easy for some reason. I understand a lot of folks here are decent handyman, and not necessary take car to garage... I used to be float and shop around. About 6 years ago since I discover this shop, I pretty much stick with them. The manager is pretty cool and decent usually, but today he lose his cool. Except this brake service and lug nuts thing, I am pretty satisfied with their other work

Thank you very much for your help!

Last edited by hiac; Jul 17, 2017 at 09:10 PM.
Reply
Old Jul 17, 2017
  #2  
ezone's Avatar
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
 
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 32,017
Likes: 256
From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Rep Power: 518
ezone has a reputation beyond reputeezone has a reputation beyond reputeezone has a reputation beyond reputeezone has a reputation beyond reputeezone has a reputation beyond reputeezone has a reputation beyond reputeezone has a reputation beyond reputeezone has a reputation beyond reputeezone has a reputation beyond reputeezone has a reputation beyond reputeezone has a reputation beyond repute
Re: lug nuts, tire pressure, and pulsation

the guy did a test run and said no issue found, but he
isn't going to drive it far enough for the problem to happen.

Should I replace it with the lug nuts with head?
If you wish.

Should I apply some anti-freeze
It's called anti-seize, and maybe.

Proper torque of the fasteners is far more important.

what's the best home tool to remove lug nuts for hobbyist?
The freekin lug wrench that came with the car is always available if you don't have a full toolbox in your garage.

for Honda civic, to replace the front studs, the whole hub has to be removed, apparently he didn't.
I wouldn't either, if I don't absolutely have to. It can be done if there is enough room, the base of the stud can be modified just a little bit for clearance.

when I drove home I heard some unfamiliar metal click sound (not loud) from the front.
Take it back to the shop.

I attempt to loose it just to test the torque, it's super tight. I don't want to go further.
Make the mechanic remove ALL of them.
Then make him use a real torque wrench to install ALL OF THEM, set to 80 foot-pounds.
No impact gun.
Later the boss also come and ask me why I under-inflate the tire.
What makes him say that?

The sticker on the door jamb is correct and you may abide by that.

The number on the side of the tire is the maximum for the tire, and you CAN use that number if you wish, but there are drawbacks.


And if driving on local, after 20 min (10 miles) the pulsation start to happen
And this is when you find ONE brake is searing hot, while the rest are not.
It's not a tire problem at all.
Replace that caliper.
Reply
Old Jul 18, 2017
  #3  
hiac's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered!!
 
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
Rep Power: 0
hiac is an unknown quantity at this point
Re: lug nuts, tire pressure, and pulsation

Hey ezone,

I will change the caliper and maybe the rotor.
about the air pressure. I asked him why, he said the max is 44. His reasoning doesn't make sense. I drove to belle tire, and a techie is inflating the tire. I ask his opinion. He said under no circumstance he want to go over 35. I just downgrade it to 30 to match the spec.

As always Thank you very much!
Reply




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:48 PM.