NDNV

Using aftermarket parts can sometime yield a different outcome than OEM.
For instance if you look at the 1, 2 and 3 star reviews on the link you provided, you will see that this part did not solve their particular issue.

"Did not work with my 2004 Honda CRV. Engine light did not come off. Replaced with an OE Honda part and that fixed the issue. No engine light anymore."

I used OEM Honda By-Pass Shut Valve and Canister to solve my P1457 code.

bulls2030

Thanks for your help. I can order the OEM. But there are a lot of people that have had success with that part from the reviews for the 7th gen civic.

Just wondering though, if this aftermarket part didn't work, wouldn't I get the same code, P1457? Now I am getting code P0497 (EVAP Low Purge Flow).
Also, I didn't bolt on one screw to the vapor cannister (see here: https://imgur.com/a/BCxI7). Could it be because of the vapor canister you think?

Just want to get some advice before I decide to order a OEM parts. Thanks for your help and advice.

bulls2030

Anyone?

ezone

IDK. Recheck your work.
If you got a low flow code now, I'd suspect the system can't detect any vacuum being pulled on the canister or tank for some reason.....like you forgot to connect the small purge vacuum line at the back of the canister, or you didn't get one of the larger lines fully seated and sealed.... or maybe the new part is junk

A good service manual will have troubleshooting procedures to help you diagnose it.

You can power up the new valve and do a functional and flow/vacuum check on it to see if it actually turns on and seals or not.


Honda calls that the "Canister Vent Shut" or CVS valve.

bulls2030

Thanks Ezone for your reply.

I guess I'll order the OEM canister and CVS Valve from majestic honda online and try it again. (i can return the Dorman one I bought from amazon). It's possible I might have missed something.

Do you know the exact number of hoses that I should have connected back to the canister and the number of ports I should have reconnected? so I make sure I have connected everything when I open it back up?

mikey1

its really not that difficult.....just look around for loose hoses before you install the cannister, i cant really remember how many hoses there are

bulls2030

Thanks Guys!

bulls2030

One more thing, how is your experience with Majestic Honda in terms of shipping time etc? I am out in Chicago so wanted to get an idea of how long it would take. Or if there is another cheaper option with faster shipping time that you guys have experience with.

ezone

The same number you disconnected!
And make sure all of them are connected fully, completely, correctly, etc.

Bill Kay Honda is right near you...


bkhondaparts.com/


If you want to shop price I think all of these are within pennies of each other and well below MSRP, but shipping can be killer sometimes so check it all out


hondapartsnow
hondapartscheap
bkhondaparts
hondaautomotiveparts
hondapartsconnection
.com/

I'm sure there are more dealerships selling online at wholesale prices if you search

bulls2030

Thanks Ezone! I didn't know about Bill Kay Honda. Have you had good experience with them? I did google them so they are an actual dealer so thats good.

ezone

I buy my Genuine Honda parts where I work.

bulls2030

So I am ordering the parts. I think I am not going to change the Canister right now.
I was wondering if anyone can recommend a way for me to somehow "glue" the CVS valve to the canister. There are two screws that hold the CVS valve to the canister. When I was removing the old CVS valve, i was only able to get one of them out and the other came out with the threads (hence cant put a screw in that one). So if I am going to jack it up and check and replace with an OEM CVS valve, I just want to make sure I do it right this time.

Any recommendations on how to "glue" it?

mikey1

you could try a small self tapping screw into the plastic, as long as it doesn't pierce right through into the cannister,

or put some silicone around the "nose" before you insert it, silicone when dry holds very strong, almost like glue,

in all honesty one screw should be enough, as long as its not going to fall off

bulls2030

Thanks!

You are recommending silicone around the nose of the screw hole, correct?

mcnoople

I wouldn't do that. Too much potential to leak, crack, work itself loose, etc.... I have had the canister solenoid cable/zip tied to the canister on the car my mother drives for about 4 years. 1 screw and 1 heavy duty zip tie wrapped around the valve works good.

I wouldn't glue the unit in with silicone either.

bulls2030

can you explain how you zip tied it in a little more detail?

Titt

Drill through horizontally + two small zip ties

ezone

If you have a long one or put several short ones together you can wrap it all the way around the canister to hold the valve on.

Be creative.

bulls2030

To provide an update for my issue:

I first replaced the CVS valve (an aftermarket one) with one screw holding it on the canister and that didnt do the trick. I got code P0497. So I am not sure it got sealed properly.

So now I put a new CVS Valve (From Honda) and replaced the Vapor Canister as well (bought from oreilly autoparts). It has been 230 miles and 1 week and I my CEL did not come on! Sweet!

Took it from emissions test today in Chicago and it passed!

My advice for anyone that looks to do this in the future is,
1) Buy OEM CVS Valve from Honda
2) Replace the Vapor Canister too. The bolts are so rusted that its hard to put a new CVS Valve on the stock one.
3) The Bolt to remove the Canister is a PAIN IN THE BUTT to remove. It took my uncle and I a long time to remove that. Before you attempt to remove it, go and buy that bolt and the screws that hold the CVS on the canister from your local honda dealership because it is almost impossible to reuse (they cost like less than $5 combined).

Just wanted to thank everyone for there help on here that helped me!. I am a DIY person but never attempted anything like this before. Wanted to provide some encouragement for anyone that has this code and needs to get it fixed.

mikem317

Has anyone completed this repair and then received a P1456 error code? I was experiencing a P1457 on a 2004 Honda Civic EX and replaced the Canister Shut Valve (OEM Honda) and a generic vapor canister from Advanced Auto. All seemed to work just fine and the P1457 error code went away after clearing it. However, after about 60 miles later, I'm seeing a a pending P1456 code. Wondering if some pressure was released when I replaced the valve and/or the canister? Maybe just need to refill the fuel tank to see if it re-pressurizes?

NDNV

I would clear the code P1456. Fill the tank and make sure fuel cap is tightened at least 3 clicks. See if P1456 comes back.

BrotatoChip

The only time I ever saw a P1456 was when a critter chewed through the wiring for the EVAP bypass solenoid (purge valve).

mikem317

Thanks everyone. My P1456 error was due to a bad fuel cap. I can screw it on and then pull on it and it comes right off. It does click but it's a fast click. Ended up using a old fuel cap and it cleared after 2 or 3 drive cycles, maybe 60 miles. Can't believe that this happened right after fixing the P1457 error. The bad fuel cap was marketed as a genuine Honda on Ebay but I think it's counterfeit as the seller isn't responding to my emails. I replaced it thinking that was the original source of the P1457.

For the P1457, I replaced the canister with a generic one from Advanced Auto (around $65) and a Honda OEM canister shut valve (around $50). I also replaced the 2 screws for the valve and the bolt for the canister. I was able to get the hose stay off the original canister but probably should have bought that too as it was really rusty.

All is well!