Power Door Lock Question
Power Door Lock Question
Hello Fellow Civic Owners,
I have just joined your Civic group and I am a recently a first time Honda owner. I have recently purchased an '03 Honda Civic EX Sedan (1.7 Litre VTEC) in the Shoreline Mist Metallic color (YR528M) with the Ivory (Style Q) Interior. And she now has just short of 131k original miles. The car runs like a dream mechanically but there are some fiddley things that need to be done.
My current question is about the power door lock System. When I engage the Power Door Lock Switch or the remote the Drivers door does not engage at all. The Two Door Locks on the Right Side Front and rear work great but the two on the left side front and rear aren't all that reliable. When I press down the drivers door Lock Manually all of the other doors lock. So My question is should I be Looking for a couple of actuators for the front and rear on the left side?
I Need to repair this because the Key Lock Cylinder on the Drivers door was flakey and finally jammed and will not turn at all. I hate to force it again and break another door handle which is another story.
So any Ideas with this Issue so that I don't have to keep Climbing over the Center Console from the Passenger Seat to Unlock My Driver's Door?
Thanks,
Larry
I have just joined your Civic group and I am a recently a first time Honda owner. I have recently purchased an '03 Honda Civic EX Sedan (1.7 Litre VTEC) in the Shoreline Mist Metallic color (YR528M) with the Ivory (Style Q) Interior. And she now has just short of 131k original miles. The car runs like a dream mechanically but there are some fiddley things that need to be done.
My current question is about the power door lock System. When I engage the Power Door Lock Switch or the remote the Drivers door does not engage at all. The Two Door Locks on the Right Side Front and rear work great but the two on the left side front and rear aren't all that reliable. When I press down the drivers door Lock Manually all of the other doors lock. So My question is should I be Looking for a couple of actuators for the front and rear on the left side?
I Need to repair this because the Key Lock Cylinder on the Drivers door was flakey and finally jammed and will not turn at all. I hate to force it again and break another door handle which is another story.
So any Ideas with this Issue so that I don't have to keep Climbing over the Center Console from the Passenger Seat to Unlock My Driver's Door?

Thanks,
Larry
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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Re: Power Door Lock Question
Weak power lock actuator motor is quite common as they age.
Door lock cylinder probably needs new tumblers. They wear with use and eventually end up jamming. Be aware, a worn key also causes lock tumblers to jam and bind.
Door lock cylinder probably needs new tumblers. They wear with use and eventually end up jamming. Be aware, a worn key also causes lock tumblers to jam and bind.
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Re: Power Door Lock Question
The left rear door lock may have the same problem as your power window problem (broken wires). But the weak actuators are definitely an issue as well. My old car I had to replace 3 of the 4 actuators and fix wires in the left rear door
Re: Power Door Lock Question
OK, here's the latest on my door lock Woes. I have replaced the Two Door lock actuators in the left rear door and the driver's, left front door, although I am not sure I had gotten the driver’s one installed correctly considering I couldn't get the entire locking mechanism out of the door because I couldn't get the top two silver screws of the three in a triangular formation removed of the side of the door in order to remove the entire locking mechanism.
Although I was still able to access the actuator directly in the driver's door and removed the two small screws that held it and the two gray power connectors to get the original one out. Although the other three doors will now lock manually via the driver’s door lock lever and they also unlock and lock via the power lock button and the key fob but the driver’s door just doesn't seem to operate other than manually.
Could I have done something wrong installing the driver’s door actuator or is there something else that could have caused this, something else that I could try to address in order to repair this?
Thanks for the help guys,
Larry
Although I was still able to access the actuator directly in the driver's door and removed the two small screws that held it and the two gray power connectors to get the original one out. Although the other three doors will now lock manually via the driver’s door lock lever and they also unlock and lock via the power lock button and the key fob but the driver’s door just doesn't seem to operate other than manually.
Could I have done something wrong installing the driver’s door actuator or is there something else that could have caused this, something else that I could try to address in order to repair this?
Thanks for the help guys,
Larry
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Re: Power Door Lock Question
Reseat both connectors.
Listen very closely at the drivers actuator on 1st unlock press on keyless for any noises.
Could be a broken wire....own a DMM ?
Listen very closely at the drivers actuator on 1st unlock press on keyless for any noises.
Could be a broken wire....own a DMM ?
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Joined: Dec 2011
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Re: Power Door Lock Question
I couldn't get the entire locking mechanism out of the door because I couldn't get the top two silver screws of the three in a triangular formation removed of the side of the door
Re: Power Door Lock Question
RESULT!
You guys are a lifesaver. I traced the two power lines from the drivers actuator (Yellow/Green & Yellow/Black) through the door and down into the wire loom to the door jamb. about 2 inches into the door jamb and into that rubber cover, the wire Yellow/Black wire was broken completely in two. I tried and tried but I couldn't seem to locate the other end of the Yellow/Black wire until I traced that particular wire into a rather large gray colored rectangular connector right next to a smaller white connector just inside the car. So, I then bypassed the Yellow/Black wire and ran a long piece of wire from just passed the connector at the door lock actuator through the door down to the jamb and into the car, just under the dash to the wire in question mounted in that large gray connector. I then cut the wire about 2 inches before it reached the connector and spliced in the wire that I had ran into that Yellow/Black wire going into that large gray connector. So I now have power going to my door actuator and my keyless entry now works so now that driver's lock cylinder now falls far down the priority totem pole, so to speak.
Thanks Guys,
Larry
You guys are a lifesaver. I traced the two power lines from the drivers actuator (Yellow/Green & Yellow/Black) through the door and down into the wire loom to the door jamb. about 2 inches into the door jamb and into that rubber cover, the wire Yellow/Black wire was broken completely in two. I tried and tried but I couldn't seem to locate the other end of the Yellow/Black wire until I traced that particular wire into a rather large gray colored rectangular connector right next to a smaller white connector just inside the car. So, I then bypassed the Yellow/Black wire and ran a long piece of wire from just passed the connector at the door lock actuator through the door down to the jamb and into the car, just under the dash to the wire in question mounted in that large gray connector. I then cut the wire about 2 inches before it reached the connector and spliced in the wire that I had ran into that Yellow/Black wire going into that large gray connector. So I now have power going to my door actuator and my keyless entry now works so now that driver's lock cylinder now falls far down the priority totem pole, so to speak.
Thanks Guys,
Larry



