Rep Power: 0

Just finished this job. First start. Crank sensor connector is giving all the right voltages. Nothing on the inside looks corroded. P0335 is the only code I'm getting. Comes back basically the second the engine turns over. Will run (poorly - random idle and bucking) and doesn't shut off, will run as long as I let it.

Thinking it it may actually be the sensor itself. Let me know if you have any other suggestions. I know how picky these things are about OEM stuff, how bad of an idea is it to use an aftermarket sensor?

 
Rep Power: 208

did you unplug the sensor during your repairs?

if the sensor was okay prior to repairs, it should be fine now,

are you sure your timing is correct?

 
Rep Power: 0

Didn't unplug it, just unbolted. I guess there's a possibility that the timing is off, but I tripled checked before pulling the belt and after putting it on. Spun about ten times with a wrench after and everything still lined up. I went ahead and ordered the OEM sensor. This has been such a PITA, would hate to have to do it again over $50.

 
Rep Power: 208

if you never unplugged the sensor you did the right thing, and if thats the case i don't think that's your problem, i would suspect your timing is off, i don't think a new sensor is going to help, let us know

 
Rep Power: 517

You didn't drop the crank timing gear on the floor and damage any of the little trigger nubs on it, did you?

 
Rep Power: 511

I thought I responded, but apparently I never clicked "Post Quick Reply"
That sensor is finicky as hell. Jostling it too much or even looking at it wrong without a makeup snuggle afterward can make it go bad. I accidentally over-tightened the mounting bolt on my sensor and it went bad.

 
Rep Power: 0

Update: replaced the crank sensor with OEM. Put harmonic balancer and crank pulley on and connected battery. Ran for five mins, hit the gas - no lights!! HOORAY!!

Put it everything back AGAIN, alternator, power steering, timing covers, engine brackets. Finally done for the second and a half time.

Start it up, fine for about ten seconds. CEL. P0300 P0303 P0304.

Swap plugs and coils, same codes. Desperately wanting to avoid pulling this all apart again to check the timing, I really don't know how it could have gotten off after I checked it so many times.

What are my next obvious steps here?

Also, really appreciate the help guys. This forum has taken me from 0-100 never changed a tire to a potentially *semi botched* completed timing belt/HG job in less than a year. I feel a lot more confident in all of this now.

 
Rep Power: 511

hah, welcome to the club. I started off on this forum knowing no more than how to change my oil. As you probably can tell from my post history, I've done quite a bit since then. It's a great feeling, isn't it?

As far as your next steps, clear the code, see if it returns. Cross your fingers that it was a spontaneous one-time thing. In the meantime, do a double check on everything you touched. After a few thousand miles, double check the torque on the head bolts, just for good measure.

 
Rep Power: 517

Score another +1 for OEM parts.
It's not cam timing ... now it's a misfire code chase.




Erase codes and start over.
If it resets codes again, then chase.

Can you feel the miss?

If it codes for misfires again......Since I can't hear it run, I'd say get it all warmed up and do a Compression test.

 
Rep Power: 132

What plugs did you use? Many have the best luck with OEM NGKs.

 
Rep Power: 0

Yeah I cleared the codes multiple times to swap coils and plugs. I made sure every sensor I could reach was tight. It is pretty consistent now in not having a code at a very bad idle - a very light bump of the pedal will put me ~ +500RPM's hanging for around five seconds. Bringing it up, I get to 3500RPM's and get a cyl. 3 misfire code, and a cyl. 4 code between 4000 and 4500.

I will be doing a compression test in about an hour and will check back in with results.



@Rice, definitely a good feeling. I finally see the justification in labor pricing when you get an estimate of 10x what the part costs when there is so much BS that goes wrong, botched jobs from previous mechanics, seized bolts, and christ the cost of the special tool you need for half the jobs. I definitely feel like I could purchase a used car without getting hustled now!

 
Rep Power: 0

Compression test seems ok.

From drivers side to passengers side:
185-190-185-180

 
Rep Power: 517

Much improved compression, that's good.

How many miles on this car?
Valve clearances adjusted?

It's fine and doesn't set misfire codes --- until you rev it to 3500+ RPM?
Is this easy to duplicate in your garage?

What if you apply a little pressure to the wires or plugs for the injector(s) and/or the coil(s) on the affected cylinders....while you rev it up and try to make it set the code again? I'm thinking maybe worn out wire terminals inside the plastic connector shell causing poor connection, affected by high RPM vibration. Moving them slightly may cause them to make or break connections.