Evap code in my civic just won't go away
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Evap code in my civic just won't go away
First I hooked up a smoke machine in the gas tank at my shop and no smoke came from any of evap system so I replace the gas cap and it came back on I'm lost from here. anybody got any ideas?
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Re: Evap code in my civic just won't go away
my civic
What kind of Civic?
What color is it?
Evap code
What code?
What's the code definition?
at my shop
What kinda shop?
Got an information system in your shop?
What does the information system say to do to diagnose the code?
I hooked up a smoke machine
What other testing have you done?
anybody got any ideas?
Did you check your VIN for recalls yet?
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really?
all you did was replace your gas cap and your lost?
i would be all out of ideas after doing that too
anybody else hear crickets chirping?
.
all you did was replace your gas cap and your lost?
i would be all out of ideas after doing that too
anybody else hear crickets chirping?
.
Last edited by mikey1; Jan 27, 2017 at 10:16 AM.
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Rep Power: 517 Re: Evap code in my civic just won't go away
I asked this guy what fault codes the OPs car has....
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It's a 03 civic ex coupe. Recalls are all done and I can't remember the code but the description was for a small leak in the evape system I would tell you the Code if I could get my hand on a scan tool. My shop is my school...we got everything u pretty much need but I'm only 16...I'm still learning and I haven't figured in to any evap work yet all I know is there's ether a leak or a gas cap problem when it comes to these code what I'm asking is is there any problems I should be checking for? If I needed all these random, unnecessary questions I would go down and talk to somebody that works a auto zone....so all I want to know is what are some standard procedures for diy diagnosing a evap problem.
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 32,017
Likes: 256
From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Rep Power: 517 Re: Evap code in my civic just won't go away
I figured that out by looking at your posting history. I just want to give you crap because it's not written in the post, and you should know to always include all of the pertinent info you have in the post.
We aren't psychic, we have no way of knowing what you know unless you tell us....and the first 10 posts in a thread shouldn't be bandwidth wasted on begging you to divulge basic information necessary to even think about answering your questions.
You came here using words like 'my shop' and 'smoke machine', I expected a certain level of info and due diligence prior to posting.
You call up a parts store wanting a belt for a car, they are gonna want to know year/make/model/engine/accessories/options/production date/VIN/shoe size/what you ate for dinner/mothers maiden name and more before they look up the belt, they they are gonna want to know which of the 5 belts you want, and then tell you they don't have it in stock anyway.
Holy cow! WRITE IT DOWN! Get into the practice of documenting everything on paper as you do it.
I already know I probably won't remember something from 10 minutes ago, so it gets written on paper as soon as I know it. (Or I can hit 'print' on my good scanners)
At my first mechanic job I learned the left shirt pocket is designed for carrying a pen and small notebook (boss's rule). I learned quick how easy it is to "just write it down the first time" and just how much time that saves in the future (the work areas were anywhere from 20-200 yards away from the front offices, that's a long damn walk to make 10 times in a row).
Much ridicule and belittling is endured as part of that learning process. No crying or calling mom.
Ever talk to a cop about anything he considers important? He's got a damn notebook and a pen and he's writing everything down right now.
Well, we need that code. There is more than one EVAP related code (there are several that deal with the system) and the two fault codes that deal with leaks, effectively isolate the leak to one section of the system or the other. (fuel tank section or canister section).
Recheck it on Monday?
Trip to autozone today?
That's handy to know. The mental image generated by your first post wasn't that of a high school auto shop class.
There is so much that you don't have, you don't know it until you really need it.
A bi-directional scanner that can force the PCM to run its EVAP system self test on demand is one damn handy tool, let me know if you have that available.
The reason I asked about your shops information system SHOULD be obvious....that's the next step in diagnosing a problem after you gather up necessary fault code information. If you just guessed at a gas cap and smoke machine, it would seem you haven't.
Alldata and Mitchell are a couple of the most widely used service information systems available to shops, and even these information systems are not 100% complete (The manufacturers info is not always what it should be either!)
If you don't have access to a good and reliable info system, you're effectively crippled as a tech.
Google searching can't diagnose cars....
If you haven't made it this far on your own (codes and information), you haven't done your due diligence. If your school doesn't have some of the most basic information resources, your school has bigger problems.
Also handy to know.
Learning how to learn is an important thing to learn.
Kudos for using some capitals and occasional punctuation. LBVS.
Don't think I'm being an azzhole to you. You aren't that special, I do it to just about anyone. (I will never claim to be a people person LOL)
Modern transportation is far more involved than nuts and bolts. It's among the highest tech fields on Earth requiring knowledge of all the areas of learning that very few kids think is important in school.
Communication is important. Note what was lacking in your first post. Writing and typing are necessary. (I can empty an ink pen in a couple weeks.) That includes being able to convey ideas and information in such a way that anyone can read it and hopefully understand what you wrote.
Math skillz. Yes, there is Geometry and Algebra involved.
A good grasp of Chemistry and Physics are important in this field.
And more. Much more. If you lose the ability to learn, you are stuck in time and technology leaves you standing on the side of the road in the past.
Fundamentals of electricity are important. Knowledge of electronics is damn handy.
Throw in some medical stuff because you will get injured sooner or later, it's important to avoid panic.
Whoa, unlearn that, it's not correct. There is a lot more to it, it's not always as simple as you want it to be.
Search this forum for "P1456" and search for "P1457" and have some reads for a while.
Each code pertains to 'leakage detected' in different halves of your EVAP system, but that doesn't hand you any answers.....and just because the code describes a leak doesn't mean there really is a leak.
Sometimes you have to manually test and sometimes disassemble things to figure out what the problem(s) may be.
You need an understanding of how the computer tests the system, what it expects to happen during the tests, and understand how/why it judges any part of a test to be pass or fail. In the case of your car, 37 different parts of the EVAP test were all condensed down to two fault codes instead of thirty seven different codes.
Once you learn about one car....you then get to find out that what you learned doesn't apply to the next car, because every car is different, every manufacturer is different. They all might accomplish the same basic goal, but they can do it in very different ways. (Some engineers are smarter than others!)
Something else....there can always be problems that service information doesn't cover. This is where a thorough understanding of any given system is important, not only the physical parts involved but the concepts, intents, and goals of the system.
Need exact code info.
The questions were neither random nor unnecessary. There was definitely a point to it. The other people who responded already knew why I posted the way I did.
I solve problems and fix cars for a living....
They sell parts to people who work on cars.
(Working on cars is not the same as fixing cars. There IS a fundamental difference.)
Everything they do is designed around selling parts. They will read codes for you (part of the parts sales tactics) and happily print out a shopping list of parts you can buy. They get paid a commission on the parts they sell, so their interest is in selling you as much as you will buy....whatever it takes to sell you more parts..
Firing the parts cannon only fixes cars by accident, and it sure generates DangerZone some hefty profit.
If their people could actually fix cars, they wouldn't be pimping parts behind the counter.
If you actually know too much about cars, the Zone won't hire you. They DO NOT WANT people who can actually fix cars on purpose because that would lower their parts sales volume.
There are a few common issues inherent to each part of the systems (pattern failures) but if I tell you all of the possibilities you could be on a wild goose chase for days without real purpose......If I knew more about the fault code I could tell you some things that might be somewhat common to fail....but you would still need to test and verify for yourself whether or not any suggestions could be causing your problem..
tank
fill neck
vapor control valve
vapor recirculation valve
canister
BPS
CVS
PCS
FTP
fresh air inlet filter
rollover valve
2-way valve
several feet of tubing and hoses and wires
Some service bulletins could apply to your issue, but not all may be found in any given info system. (I know alldata doesn't have all of the info that can be found in Hondas info system)..
Warning, service bulletins are NOT always a fix. Most of the time they don't even apply to the EVAP problems I see on those cars at all.
We now have cars so sensitive that a simple spider web can cause fault codes. Yeah. Really.
One last question....Where are you located? Snow/salt/rust belt? Corrosion plays a huge role in some failures, so this info may be important to me during diagnosis.
Damn, this turned out to be way too long.
We aren't psychic, we have no way of knowing what you know unless you tell us....and the first 10 posts in a thread shouldn't be bandwidth wasted on begging you to divulge basic information necessary to even think about answering your questions.
You came here using words like 'my shop' and 'smoke machine', I expected a certain level of info and due diligence prior to posting.
You call up a parts store wanting a belt for a car, they are gonna want to know year/make/model/engine/accessories/options/production date/VIN/shoe size/what you ate for dinner/mothers maiden name and more before they look up the belt, they they are gonna want to know which of the 5 belts you want, and then tell you they don't have it in stock anyway.
and I can't remember the code
I already know I probably won't remember something from 10 minutes ago, so it gets written on paper as soon as I know it. (Or I can hit 'print' on my good scanners)
At my first mechanic job I learned the left shirt pocket is designed for carrying a pen and small notebook (boss's rule). I learned quick how easy it is to "just write it down the first time" and just how much time that saves in the future (the work areas were anywhere from 20-200 yards away from the front offices, that's a long damn walk to make 10 times in a row).
Much ridicule and belittling is endured as part of that learning process. No crying or calling mom.
Ever talk to a cop about anything he considers important? He's got a damn notebook and a pen and he's writing everything down right now.
but the description was for a small leak in the evape system
I would tell you the Code if I could get my hand on a scan tool.
Trip to autozone today?
My shop is my school...
we got everything u pretty much need
A bi-directional scanner that can force the PCM to run its EVAP system self test on demand is one damn handy tool, let me know if you have that available.
The reason I asked about your shops information system SHOULD be obvious....that's the next step in diagnosing a problem after you gather up necessary fault code information. If you just guessed at a gas cap and smoke machine, it would seem you haven't.
Alldata and Mitchell are a couple of the most widely used service information systems available to shops, and even these information systems are not 100% complete (The manufacturers info is not always what it should be either!)
If you don't have access to a good and reliable info system, you're effectively crippled as a tech.
Google searching can't diagnose cars....
If you haven't made it this far on your own (codes and information), you haven't done your due diligence. If your school doesn't have some of the most basic information resources, your school has bigger problems.
but I'm only 16...
Learning how to learn is an important thing to learn.
Kudos for using some capitals and occasional punctuation. LBVS.
Don't think I'm being an azzhole to you. You aren't that special, I do it to just about anyone. (I will never claim to be a people person LOL)
Modern transportation is far more involved than nuts and bolts. It's among the highest tech fields on Earth requiring knowledge of all the areas of learning that very few kids think is important in school.
Communication is important. Note what was lacking in your first post. Writing and typing are necessary. (I can empty an ink pen in a couple weeks.) That includes being able to convey ideas and information in such a way that anyone can read it and hopefully understand what you wrote.
Math skillz. Yes, there is Geometry and Algebra involved.
A good grasp of Chemistry and Physics are important in this field.
And more. Much more. If you lose the ability to learn, you are stuck in time and technology leaves you standing on the side of the road in the past.
Fundamentals of electricity are important. Knowledge of electronics is damn handy.
Throw in some medical stuff because you will get injured sooner or later, it's important to avoid panic.
I'm still learning and I haven't figured in to any evap work yet all I know is there's ether a leak or a gas cap problem when it comes to these code
Search this forum for "P1456" and search for "P1457" and have some reads for a while.
Each code pertains to 'leakage detected' in different halves of your EVAP system, but that doesn't hand you any answers.....and just because the code describes a leak doesn't mean there really is a leak.
Sometimes you have to manually test and sometimes disassemble things to figure out what the problem(s) may be.
You need an understanding of how the computer tests the system, what it expects to happen during the tests, and understand how/why it judges any part of a test to be pass or fail. In the case of your car, 37 different parts of the EVAP test were all condensed down to two fault codes instead of thirty seven different codes.
Once you learn about one car....you then get to find out that what you learned doesn't apply to the next car, because every car is different, every manufacturer is different. They all might accomplish the same basic goal, but they can do it in very different ways. (Some engineers are smarter than others!)
Something else....there can always be problems that service information doesn't cover. This is where a thorough understanding of any given system is important, not only the physical parts involved but the concepts, intents, and goals of the system.
what I'm asking is is there any problems I should be checking for?
If I needed all these random, unnecessary questions
I would go down and talk to somebody that works a auto zone....
They sell parts to people who work on cars.
(Working on cars is not the same as fixing cars. There IS a fundamental difference.)
Everything they do is designed around selling parts. They will read codes for you (part of the parts sales tactics) and happily print out a shopping list of parts you can buy. They get paid a commission on the parts they sell, so their interest is in selling you as much as you will buy....whatever it takes to sell you more parts..
Firing the parts cannon only fixes cars by accident, and it sure generates DangerZone some hefty profit.
If their people could actually fix cars, they wouldn't be pimping parts behind the counter.
If you actually know too much about cars, the Zone won't hire you. They DO NOT WANT people who can actually fix cars on purpose because that would lower their parts sales volume.
so all I want to know is what are some standard procedures for diy diagnosing a evap problem.
tank
fill neck
vapor control valve
vapor recirculation valve
canister
BPS
CVS
PCS
FTP
fresh air inlet filter
rollover valve
2-way valve
several feet of tubing and hoses and wires
Some service bulletins could apply to your issue, but not all may be found in any given info system. (I know alldata doesn't have all of the info that can be found in Hondas info system)..
Warning, service bulletins are NOT always a fix. Most of the time they don't even apply to the EVAP problems I see on those cars at all.
We now have cars so sensitive that a simple spider web can cause fault codes. Yeah. Really.
One last question....Where are you located? Snow/salt/rust belt? Corrosion plays a huge role in some failures, so this info may be important to me during diagnosis.
Damn, this turned out to be way too long.
Last edited by ezone; Jan 29, 2017 at 07:56 PM.
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Thank you for all the information but it seems like we really need that code before we move any further...I will have the code for you tomorrow and thanks again for all the information I definitely learned a lot. Like I said I never got into any evap work so that helped
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A common EVAP code for this gen Civic is P1457 and is usually solved by replacing the By-pass Shut Valve/Canister under the vehicle. At least it solved it for me.
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Hey so I was finally was able to go to my shop and get the code it was p1457 I believe it's a bad purge valve when I take the gas cap off there's a hssing sound and when the vape machine goes in the only smoke comes pouring back out
I figured that out by looking at your posting history. I just want to give you crap because it's not written in the post, and you should know to always include all of the pertinent info you have in the post.
We aren't psychic, we have no way of knowing what you know unless you tell us....and the first 10 posts in a thread shouldn't be bandwidth wasted on begging you to divulge basic information necessary to even think about answering your questions.
You came here using words like 'my shop' and 'smoke machine', I expected a certain level of info and due diligence prior to posting.
You call up a parts store wanting a belt for a car, they are gonna want to know year/make/model/engine/accessories/options/production date/VIN/shoe size/what you ate for dinner/mothers maiden name and more before they look up the belt, they they are gonna want to know which of the 5 belts you want, and then tell you they don't have it in stock anyway.
Holy cow! WRITE IT DOWN! Get into the practice of documenting everything on paper as you do it.
I already know I probably won't remember something from 10 minutes ago, so it gets written on paper as soon as I know it. (Or I can hit 'print' on my good scanners)
At my first mechanic job I learned the left shirt pocket is designed for carrying a pen and small notebook (boss's rule). I learned quick how easy it is to "just write it down the first time" and just how much time that saves in the future (the work areas were anywhere from 20-200 yards away from the front offices, that's a long damn walk to make 10 times in a row).
Much ridicule and belittling is endured as part of that learning process. No crying or calling mom.
Ever talk to a cop about anything he considers important? He's got a damn notebook and a pen and he's writing everything down right now.
Well, we need that code. There is more than one EVAP related code (there are several that deal with the system) and the two fault codes that deal with leaks, effectively isolate the leak to one section of the system or the other. (fuel tank section or canister section).
Recheck it on Monday?
Trip to autozone today?
That's handy to know. The mental image generated by your first post wasn't that of a high school auto shop class.
There is so much that you don't have, you don't know it until you really need it.
A bi-directional scanner that can force the PCM to run its EVAP system self test on demand is one damn handy tool, let me know if you have that available.
The reason I asked about your shops information system SHOULD be obvious....that's the next step in diagnosing a problem after you gather up necessary fault code information. If you just guessed at a gas cap and smoke machine, it would seem you haven't.
Alldata and Mitchell are a couple of the most widely used service information systems available to shops, and even these information systems are not 100% complete (The manufacturers info is not always what it should be either!)
If you don't have access to a good and reliable info system, you're effectively crippled as a tech.
Google searching can't diagnose cars....
If you haven't made it this far on your own (codes and information), you haven't done your due diligence. If your school doesn't have some of the most basic information resources, your school has bigger problems.
Also handy to know.
Learning how to learn is an important thing to learn.
Kudos for using some capitals and occasional punctuation. LBVS.
Don't think I'm being an azzhole to you. You aren't that special, I do it to just about anyone. (I will never claim to be a people person LOL)
Modern transportation is far more involved than nuts and bolts. It's among the highest tech fields on Earth requiring knowledge of all the areas of learning that very few kids think is important in school.
Communication is important. Note what was lacking in your first post. Writing and typing are necessary. (I can empty an ink pen in a couple weeks.) That includes being able to convey ideas and information in such a way that anyone can read it and hopefully understand what you wrote.
Math skillz. Yes, there is Geometry and Algebra involved.
A good grasp of Chemistry and Physics are important in this field.
And more. Much more. If you lose the ability to learn, you are stuck in time and technology leaves you standing on the side of the road in the past.
Fundamentals of electricity are important. Knowledge of electronics is damn handy.
Throw in some medical stuff because you will get injured sooner or later, it's important to avoid panic.
Whoa, unlearn that, it's not correct. There is a lot more to it, it's not always as simple as you want it to be.
Search this forum for "P1456" and search for "P1457" and have some reads for a while.
Each code pertains to 'leakage detected' in different halves of your EVAP system, but that doesn't hand you any answers.....and just because the code describes a leak doesn't mean there really is a leak.
Sometimes you have to manually test and sometimes disassemble things to figure out what the problem(s) may be.
You need an understanding of how the computer tests the system, what it expects to happen during the tests, and understand how/why it judges any part of a test to be pass or fail. In the case of your car, 37 different parts of the EVAP test were all condensed down to two fault codes instead of thirty seven different codes.
Once you learn about one car....you then get to find out that what you learned doesn't apply to the next car, because every car is different, every manufacturer is different. They all might accomplish the same basic goal, but they can do it in very different ways. (Some engineers are smarter than others!)
Something else....there can always be problems that service information doesn't cover. This is where a thorough understanding of any given system is important, not only the physical parts involved but the concepts, intents, and goals of the system.
Need exact code info.
The questions were neither random nor unnecessary. There was definitely a point to it. The other people who responded already knew why I posted the way I did.
I solve problems and fix cars for a living....
They sell parts to people who work on cars.
(Working on cars is not the same as fixing cars. There IS a fundamental difference.)
Everything they do is designed around selling parts. They will read codes for you (part of the parts sales tactics) and happily print out a shopping list of parts you can buy. They get paid a commission on the parts they sell, so their interest is in selling you as much as you will buy....whatever it takes to sell you more parts..
Firing the parts cannon only fixes cars by accident, and it sure generates DangerZone some hefty profit.
If their people could actually fix cars, they wouldn't be pimping parts behind the counter.
If you actually know too much about cars, the Zone won't hire you. They DO NOT WANT people who can actually fix cars on purpose because that would lower their parts sales volume.
There are a few common issues inherent to each part of the systems (pattern failures) but if I tell you all of the possibilities you could be on a wild goose chase for days without real purpose......If I knew more about the fault code I could tell you some things that might be somewhat common to fail....but you would still need to test and verify for yourself whether or not any suggestions could be causing your problem..
tank
fill neck
vapor control valve
vapor recirculation valve
canister
BPS
CVS
PCS
FTP
fresh air inlet filter
rollover valve
2-way valve
several feet of tubing and hoses and wires
Some service bulletins could apply to your issue, but not all may be found in any given info system. (I know alldata doesn't have all of the info that can be found in Hondas info system)..
Warning, service bulletins are NOT always a fix. Most of the time they don't even apply to the EVAP problems I see on those cars at all.
We now have cars so sensitive that a simple spider web can cause fault codes. Yeah. Really.
One last question....Where are you located? Snow/salt/rust belt? Corrosion plays a huge role in some failures, so this info may be important to me during diagnosis.
Damn, this turned out to be way too long.
We aren't psychic, we have no way of knowing what you know unless you tell us....and the first 10 posts in a thread shouldn't be bandwidth wasted on begging you to divulge basic information necessary to even think about answering your questions.
You came here using words like 'my shop' and 'smoke machine', I expected a certain level of info and due diligence prior to posting.
You call up a parts store wanting a belt for a car, they are gonna want to know year/make/model/engine/accessories/options/production date/VIN/shoe size/what you ate for dinner/mothers maiden name and more before they look up the belt, they they are gonna want to know which of the 5 belts you want, and then tell you they don't have it in stock anyway.
Holy cow! WRITE IT DOWN! Get into the practice of documenting everything on paper as you do it.
I already know I probably won't remember something from 10 minutes ago, so it gets written on paper as soon as I know it. (Or I can hit 'print' on my good scanners)
At my first mechanic job I learned the left shirt pocket is designed for carrying a pen and small notebook (boss's rule). I learned quick how easy it is to "just write it down the first time" and just how much time that saves in the future (the work areas were anywhere from 20-200 yards away from the front offices, that's a long damn walk to make 10 times in a row).
Much ridicule and belittling is endured as part of that learning process. No crying or calling mom.
Ever talk to a cop about anything he considers important? He's got a damn notebook and a pen and he's writing everything down right now.
Well, we need that code. There is more than one EVAP related code (there are several that deal with the system) and the two fault codes that deal with leaks, effectively isolate the leak to one section of the system or the other. (fuel tank section or canister section).
Recheck it on Monday?
Trip to autozone today?
That's handy to know. The mental image generated by your first post wasn't that of a high school auto shop class.
There is so much that you don't have, you don't know it until you really need it.
A bi-directional scanner that can force the PCM to run its EVAP system self test on demand is one damn handy tool, let me know if you have that available.
The reason I asked about your shops information system SHOULD be obvious....that's the next step in diagnosing a problem after you gather up necessary fault code information. If you just guessed at a gas cap and smoke machine, it would seem you haven't.
Alldata and Mitchell are a couple of the most widely used service information systems available to shops, and even these information systems are not 100% complete (The manufacturers info is not always what it should be either!)
If you don't have access to a good and reliable info system, you're effectively crippled as a tech.
Google searching can't diagnose cars....
If you haven't made it this far on your own (codes and information), you haven't done your due diligence. If your school doesn't have some of the most basic information resources, your school has bigger problems.
Also handy to know.
Learning how to learn is an important thing to learn.
Kudos for using some capitals and occasional punctuation. LBVS.
Don't think I'm being an azzhole to you. You aren't that special, I do it to just about anyone. (I will never claim to be a people person LOL)
Modern transportation is far more involved than nuts and bolts. It's among the highest tech fields on Earth requiring knowledge of all the areas of learning that very few kids think is important in school.
Communication is important. Note what was lacking in your first post. Writing and typing are necessary. (I can empty an ink pen in a couple weeks.) That includes being able to convey ideas and information in such a way that anyone can read it and hopefully understand what you wrote.
Math skillz. Yes, there is Geometry and Algebra involved.
A good grasp of Chemistry and Physics are important in this field.
And more. Much more. If you lose the ability to learn, you are stuck in time and technology leaves you standing on the side of the road in the past.
Fundamentals of electricity are important. Knowledge of electronics is damn handy.
Throw in some medical stuff because you will get injured sooner or later, it's important to avoid panic.
Whoa, unlearn that, it's not correct. There is a lot more to it, it's not always as simple as you want it to be.
Search this forum for "P1456" and search for "P1457" and have some reads for a while.
Each code pertains to 'leakage detected' in different halves of your EVAP system, but that doesn't hand you any answers.....and just because the code describes a leak doesn't mean there really is a leak.
Sometimes you have to manually test and sometimes disassemble things to figure out what the problem(s) may be.
You need an understanding of how the computer tests the system, what it expects to happen during the tests, and understand how/why it judges any part of a test to be pass or fail. In the case of your car, 37 different parts of the EVAP test were all condensed down to two fault codes instead of thirty seven different codes.
Once you learn about one car....you then get to find out that what you learned doesn't apply to the next car, because every car is different, every manufacturer is different. They all might accomplish the same basic goal, but they can do it in very different ways. (Some engineers are smarter than others!)
Something else....there can always be problems that service information doesn't cover. This is where a thorough understanding of any given system is important, not only the physical parts involved but the concepts, intents, and goals of the system.
Need exact code info.
The questions were neither random nor unnecessary. There was definitely a point to it. The other people who responded already knew why I posted the way I did.
I solve problems and fix cars for a living....
They sell parts to people who work on cars.
(Working on cars is not the same as fixing cars. There IS a fundamental difference.)
Everything they do is designed around selling parts. They will read codes for you (part of the parts sales tactics) and happily print out a shopping list of parts you can buy. They get paid a commission on the parts they sell, so their interest is in selling you as much as you will buy....whatever it takes to sell you more parts..
Firing the parts cannon only fixes cars by accident, and it sure generates DangerZone some hefty profit.
If their people could actually fix cars, they wouldn't be pimping parts behind the counter.
If you actually know too much about cars, the Zone won't hire you. They DO NOT WANT people who can actually fix cars on purpose because that would lower their parts sales volume.
There are a few common issues inherent to each part of the systems (pattern failures) but if I tell you all of the possibilities you could be on a wild goose chase for days without real purpose......If I knew more about the fault code I could tell you some things that might be somewhat common to fail....but you would still need to test and verify for yourself whether or not any suggestions could be causing your problem..
tank
fill neck
vapor control valve
vapor recirculation valve
canister
BPS
CVS
PCS
FTP
fresh air inlet filter
rollover valve
2-way valve
several feet of tubing and hoses and wires
Some service bulletins could apply to your issue, but not all may be found in any given info system. (I know alldata doesn't have all of the info that can be found in Hondas info system)..
Warning, service bulletins are NOT always a fix. Most of the time they don't even apply to the EVAP problems I see on those cars at all.
We now have cars so sensitive that a simple spider web can cause fault codes. Yeah. Really.
One last question....Where are you located? Snow/salt/rust belt? Corrosion plays a huge role in some failures, so this info may be important to me during diagnosis.
Damn, this turned out to be way too long.
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Rep Power: 517 Re: Evap code in my civic just won't go away
I'm not trying to tell this person a pile of parts to replace,
because
This makes very little sense to me....If I understand what's not written, the reasoning is not sound.
It could need a purge valve, but that reasoning doesn't make sense to me yet.
The story has some missing black par
because
I believe it's a bad purge valve when I take the gas cap off there's a hssing sound and when the vape machine goes in the only smoke comes pouring back out
It could need a purge valve, but that reasoning doesn't make sense to me yet.
The story has some missing black par
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I believe it's a small leak in evap canister but I'm not quite sure where do I find the discription for the code
i mean definition
I'm not trying to tell this person a pile of parts to replace,
because
This makes very little sense to me....If I understand what's not written, the reasoning is not sound.
It could need a purge valve, but that reasoning doesn't make sense to me yet.
The story has some missing black par
because
This makes very little sense to me....If I understand what's not written, the reasoning is not sound.
It could need a purge valve, but that reasoning doesn't make sense to me yet.
The story has some missing black par
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Rep Power: 517 Re: Evap code in my civic just won't go away
Definition, and troubleshooting procedures for that code.
Google could have done a decent job.
Searching this forum for that code would probably give you a days worth of reading.
P1457: EVAP control system, leakage detected in the canister system.
That eliminates the gas cap and anything about the gas tank as suspects.
Now you are going to be dealing with the canister unit under the car, 3 electrically operated solenoids, a bunch of hoses and some wiring.
Wiring: Inspect for rodent chewed wiring under the car.
You could smoke check the canister from the front of the car, but you have to be able to electrically operate at least one of the solenoids to seal the system.
What about the scanner your shop has? Does it give you the ability to operate any of the solenoids on demand? Manually force an EVAP self test to run?
Is rust a problem in your location?
One typical problem is the CVS valve rusts through and leaks externally.
Another typical problem is the purge valve can't flow enough volume, and test aborts and fails and sets either code because of it.
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My shop has the snap on scan tool I tried running a test for the purge valve solenoid and there wasn't a test for one I would need to check and see if there's a test for the canisters solenoid but the snap on scan tool can do a lot so I'm sure it could and sorry my shop has no place to look up code definitions so I tired google but so are u saying that my problem lies somewhere inside or around the gas tank?
You were supposed to look it up in your shops information system when you obtained the fault code and be able to tell us what you found.
Definition, and troubleshooting procedures for that code.
Google could have done a decent job.
Searching this forum for that code would probably give you a days worth of reading.
P1457: EVAP control system, leakage detected in the canister system.
That eliminates the gas cap and anything about the gas tank as suspects.
Now you are going to be dealing with the canister unit under the car, 3 electrically operated solenoids, a bunch of hoses and some wiring.
Wiring: Inspect for rodent chewed wiring under the car.
You could smoke check the canister from the front of the car, but you have to be able to electrically operate at least one of the solenoids to seal the system.
En
What about the scanner your shop has? Does it give you the ability to operate any of the solenoids on demand? Manually force an EVAP self test to run?
Is rust a problem in your location?
One typical problem is the CVS valve rusts through and leaks externally.
Another typical problem is the purge valve can't flow enough volume, and test aborts and fails and sets either code because of it.
Definition, and troubleshooting procedures for that code.
Google could have done a decent job.
Searching this forum for that code would probably give you a days worth of reading.
P1457: EVAP control system, leakage detected in the canister system.
That eliminates the gas cap and anything about the gas tank as suspects.
Now you are going to be dealing with the canister unit under the car, 3 electrically operated solenoids, a bunch of hoses and some wiring.
Wiring: Inspect for rodent chewed wiring under the car.
You could smoke check the canister from the front of the car, but you have to be able to electrically operate at least one of the solenoids to seal the system.
En
What about the scanner your shop has? Does it give you the ability to operate any of the solenoids on demand? Manually force an EVAP self test to run?
Is rust a problem in your location?
One typical problem is the CVS valve rusts through and leaks externally.
Another typical problem is the purge valve can't flow enough volume, and test aborts and fails and sets either code because of it.
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Rep Power: 517 Re: Evap code in my civic just won't go away
My shop has the snap on scan tool I tried running a test for the purge valve solenoid and there wasn't a test for one
I would need to check and see if there's a test for the canisters solenoid
but the snap on scan tool can do a lot so I'm sure it could
and sorry my shop has no place to look up code definitions so I tired google
but so are u saying that my problem lies somewhere inside or around the gas tank?
I would need to check and see if there's a test for the canisters solenoid
but the snap on scan tool can do a lot so I'm sure it could
and sorry my shop has no place to look up code definitions so I tired google
but so are u saying that my problem lies somewhere inside or around the gas tank?
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Rep Power: 517 Re: Evap code in my civic just won't go away
My shop has the snap on scan tool I tried running a test for the purge valve solenoid and there wasn't a test for one
I would need to check and see if there's a test for the canisters solenoid
but the snap on scan tool can do a lot so I'm sure it could
I would need to check and see if there's a test for the canisters solenoid
but the snap on scan tool can do a lot so I'm sure it could
and sorry my shop has no place to look up code definitions so I tired google
They are training you to be a bottom feeder because you're crippled.
Does the Snappy scanner have definitions and procedures in it?
but so are u saying that my problem lies somewhere inside or around the gas tank?
P1457: EVAP control system, leakage detected in the canister system.
That eliminates the gas cap and anything about the gas tank as suspects
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Okay my bad I misread that and no the scan tool does not have any definitions or procedures I believe we use A website for our procedures any the web site is only for procedures and no definitions for codes
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Rep Power: 148 Re: Evap code in my civic just won't go away
You are doing great for a 16 year old. 99% of your High-school have not a clue what a Evap code is. Only how to put gas in and probably 75% don't know how to check their oil let alone how to change it.
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Rep Power: 517 Re: Evap code in my civic just won't go away
Is the info website called Motologic? It sux IMHO.
Video is accurate, rust ruins that valve in my area (the rust belt)
You can test it for leakage first, leave it attached to the canister and smoke the canister (may have to plug hoses though).
I've used soapy water and a little air pressure (1 PSI) and got pics of the bubbles
Video is accurate, rust ruins that valve in my area (the rust belt)
You can test it for leakage first, leave it attached to the canister and smoke the canister (may have to plug hoses though).
I've used soapy water and a little air pressure (1 PSI) and got pics of the bubbles
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Rep Power: 517 Re: Evap code in my civic just won't go away
There is a TSB about the purge valve that may apply to your car.
If the CVS in the video and pics isn't leaking, the problem could be the purge valve on the side of the throttle body.
The TSB describes what to look for, but it requires a scantool that is capable of making the PCM do an EVAP self test.
These two are just the more common failures. There are certainly other possibilities.
If the CVS in the video and pics isn't leaking, the problem could be the purge valve on the side of the throttle body.
The TSB describes what to look for, but it requires a scantool that is capable of making the PCM do an EVAP self test.
These two are just the more common failures. There are certainly other possibilities.
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Thanks! But yah at this school some of the knowledge is there but it doesn't come easy you got work to get the knowledge and about 80% of kids there don't but say if it's not the canister is there any test like the one in the picture that I can do on the purge valve?
There is a TSB about the purge valve that may apply to your car.
If the CVS in the video and pics isn't leaking, the problem could be the purge valve on the side of the throttle body.
The TSB describes what to look for, but it requires a scantool that is capable of making the PCM do an EVAP self test.
These two are just the more common failures. There are certainly other possibilities.
If the CVS in the video and pics isn't leaking, the problem could be the purge valve on the side of the throttle body.
The TSB describes what to look for, but it requires a scantool that is capable of making the PCM do an EVAP self test.
These two are just the more common failures. There are certainly other possibilities.
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Rep Power: 517 Re: Evap code in my civic just won't go away
You would need to be able to measure the flow rate of the purge valve while it's open..... that's gonna be tough to do without correct equipment, and there is no published flow spec for testing it by itself.
That's where a real good scanner comes in, and the info on the problem tells what to look for on the scanner while it's running the forced EVAP test.
If you have a really good understanding of what a flow rate test is looking for, some crude test method could be improvised-- but without a known good unit to compare with you may not know if yours is good or bad.
Sometimes it's simpler to just replace it if it's known to be a possible cause. What year is your car again?
That's where a real good scanner comes in, and the info on the problem tells what to look for on the scanner while it's running the forced EVAP test.
If you have a really good understanding of what a flow rate test is looking for, some crude test method could be improvised-- but without a known good unit to compare with you may not know if yours is good or bad.
Sometimes it's simpler to just replace it if it's known to be a possible cause. What year is your car again?
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2003 civic ex...yah I guess I should just go ahead and replace it. Nothing bad can come from that, I'm definitely gonna test them canisters tomorrow. Soo where would I find these canisters that could be leaking
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Rep Power: 517 Re: Evap code in my civic just won't go away
Didn't you search this forum for P1457? The rest of this is C&P from other posts I've written in just this forum, found by searching 'P1457':
Purge valve is on the throttle body.
The rest of the parts mentioned are under the car in the rear by the gas tank.
Stick your head under the edge of the car and look for this
If you do decide the CVS is the problem, you should attempt to remove the screws holding it to the canister. They like to seize and not come out, many end up getting the canister replaced along with the valve.
Canister is held in with a single bolt. Disconnect a bunch of hoses and wires and it can drop down for access.
Purge valve is on the throttle body.
The rest of the parts mentioned are under the car in the rear by the gas tank.
Stick your head under the edge of the car and look for this
If you do decide the CVS is the problem, you should attempt to remove the screws holding it to the canister. They like to seize and not come out, many end up getting the canister replaced along with the valve.
Canister is held in with a single bolt. Disconnect a bunch of hoses and wires and it can drop down for access.
