Rep Power: 0

I have an 02 Civic EX with 105k miles or so on it. The car drives great, but I had three issues in two days which I'm not sure if they're related or not to be honest, so I will list them all.

When I hit the power locks, the back door lock won't go up fully. It's almost there, but stops just short. That happened Wednesday, but then Thursday, I noticed the opposite back window won't go down. I tried putting it down from the driver's side and from the back.

Finally, I hit the power lock button while in the car, and I heard a grinding noise. Then, the ABS light came on and off any time the heat cycled afterwards until I shut off the heat. When I came home, I put on the heat again, and the light stays off.

I know it's a lot of different things, but I'm not sure if they're all connected or not because they happened at the at the same time.

Anyone have any idea what it could be?

 
Rep Power: 132

I don't know if this helps or not but have your battery checked. A weak battery may cause electrical gremlins.


I know from personal experience that when my alternator was on its way out (and discharging the battery), I believe the ABS light would be one of the first lights to come on in the dash for some reason.


Weak door lock actuators not operating properly due to weak battery

 
Rep Power: 517

Ya, have the battery and charging system thoroughly tested.
Low voltage can cause the ABS warning light to come on, and that shouldn't happen while driving....

Also. weak and bad power lock actuators are common too.

 
Rep Power: 0

Thank you both for your responses. I was actually parked when the ABS came on which I forgot to mention.

I'll have the battery checked tomorrow.

I had the alternator replaced 5k miles or so ago, so I hope it's not faulty.

I didn't drive the car for a few days (4 or so), so maybe the cold drained it a bit. The back power window works today, and I drove for over an hour or two with no ABS light issues.

Thank you again for the recommendations. I'll definitely take a look at the battery.

 
Rep Power: 132

If you had the alternator replaced recently, then ensure that the bracket tensioner bolt is not stripped and causing the alternator belt to slip. I had to go back to shop after my install as the bolt was stripped and they replaced it. This bolt is important as I believe it is the grounding point for the alternator. Check the tension of the alt belt.

 
Rep Power: 0

I'm sorry for not replying earlier. I got into an accident recently, so the battery was the least of my worries. Anyway, it was the battery. Once I got a new one, everything worked fine again including the one window and the power locks.

The ABS light hasn't come on again either.

But, I'm in the middle of waiting to bring the car in to see what the damages are from a lady turning left in front of me trying to get a darn taco at Taco Bell.

The one guy quoted me $2,400 for a hood, bumper and fender. He said it doesn't look like there's any internal damage, but the wheel shakes pretty good when in reverse. I'm thinking a bad motor mount? It shook a bit before, but now it's pretty prominent.

 
Rep Power: 517

Let their insurance take care of it. Make sure you don't sign off on anything until your car is repaired to YOUR satisfaction. Along the same lines, make sure your own insurance agent/company is kept informed of what's going on, most will help you get your car fixed if you have issues with the other company.

Many bodyshop people aren't great with mechanical issues, I"d imagine the vibrations you noticed may not have stood out to whomever made the body/paint estimate. Mount bound up, bent, broken, maybe radiator has been shoved into the engine, who knows? Someone needs to check it out and get it included in the repairs if it was caused by the accident