Rep Power: 0

Hi guys, I recently picked up an 2002 2dr Auto. It's been running ok, but last night it started to hesitate slightly when in a gear. It goes into gear and shifts ok, but when cruising it seems like the tranny slips or hesitates and doesnt accelerate cleanly, the CEL started flashing as well.

I put some lucas stop slip in today, and drove for 5 mins but it didnt seem to to anything!?

 
Rep Power: 173

What CEL code is it?

 
Rep Power: 518

Misfire code will be found. Maybe more.

 
Rep Power: 0

Don't think it's engine related, it now actually accelerates cleanly in 1'st/2'nd but will hesitate slightly in the upper gears or when going over 55mph.

For anyone that's having similar issues, I tried a couple different transmission treatments, Duralube ATF treatment in the small round bottle has made an improvement, definitely drives more cleanly.

 
Rep Power: 0

looks like 01-02's auto's are well known to fail.

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...ml#post4615683

Wondering if doing a flush may delay the inevitable? City driving is ok, but i wont go on any freeways, car does not like any kind of acceleration in the upper gears.

 
Rep Power: 518

Yeah they are well known for issues, but if you have the check engine light flashing you have a serious running problem that needs resolved before frigging with the transmission.


If you want to service the trans, drain and fill it using Hondas DW-1 fluid.
Hondas approved method of flushing is to drain and fill multiple times.

Machine flushes and chemicals are not kind to Hondas.

 
Rep Power: 0

The flashing is because of the tranny, in higher gears if i have too much throttle applied it happens and the car will not accelerate cleanly.

thanks for the tip on drain and fill. worth a shot for sure.

 
Rep Power: 145

You don't have to listen to ezone, but if you have read any other posts in this forum, you would know that he knows what he is talking about, especially when he puts something in BOLD.

Your check engine light will not flash if apply "too much throttle". Yes, the engine will cut the RPMS (over like 7k) but there is a serious engine problem there.

CHECK THE CODE! Or we will see you back here.... asking "Why did my timing belt fall off and engine blow up?", or "Why is my engine misfiring?"

Your lack of accelleration under high throttle is characteristic of a timing belt jumping a tooth or two. Not necessarily the problem, but could be and could be FATAL to your engine! WHY NOT JUST CHECK? UGH!

The transmission does not have any sensors that will trip the CEL.

 
Rep Power: 0

Ok i guess im just too fixated on the auto tranny (torque converter) as im hearing all these reports of failure and this is my first car without a manual.

Will check the code

 
Rep Power: 518

A flashing check engine light is NEVER caused by transmission codes.

A flashing check engine light is ONLY caused by a (catalyst damaging) misfire code.



A dead cylinder will cause a serious lack of power.
That same lack of engine power makes the trans act funny.


If you ignore the flashing check engine light long enough, you may ruin the catalytic converter.


/emboldened, for your pleasure
//i has no clues
///derp

 
Rep Power: 518

Better tip: Find the trans dipstick and make sure you have a funnel that will actually reach into the hole----before you drain the fluid.

 
Rep Power: 0

Thanks, going to a honda mechanic tomorrow after work. Could just be a case of needing new spark plugs or a faulty sensor, just not sure why the first two gears are not affected.

Anyway thanks again.

 
Rep Power: 0

Welp, the code was cylinder #2 misfire. My mechanic was swamped so all he could do was read the code and then clear the CEL. Told me if it comes back, he'll do a full diagnostic. I might just replace all four spark plugs in the mean time.

 
Rep Power: 134

Does the transmission slip when it's cold out below 40F degrees or when the engine has just been driven a few minutes/miles? I was wondering about this because I had a 1966 Ford Galaxie 500 conv. with a similar problem with the clutch packs it wasn't a matter of if it would go. It was when it would go bad. I lost the forward pump and then a low gear clutch band snapped. The others are right I would deal with the engine first.

 
Rep Power: 0

Not sure the tranny does slip, seems this was all engine related. Thanks all for the direction

 
Rep Power: 134

Your welcome. If the transmission starts slipping let me know.

 
Rep Power: 518

Don't go replace any plugs just yet.
I'd swap a couple parts to see where the miss code goes.

#2 has the problem right now, so I would
Remove coil and plug from #2.
Inspect carefully, do you see any reason it would misfire?
Fouled? Crap on the electrodes?
Carbon tracking on the upper porcelain? (If it has this, it needs the plug AND the coil replaced at the same time)



If nothing obvious, then do this:
Swap coils from cylinders #1 and #2.
Swap spark plugs #2 and #3.

Now drive it however it has to be driven to make the engine light flash again.

Read codes again (local parts store may do it for free) , see which cylinder has the misfire code now.

You kept track of where each of the ignition parts got moved, so now you can tell if it's ignition parts that are bad.

If it's still got misfire on #2, it's probably not ignition parts.




-------
Do I need to make any of this bold print? LOL
-------


Another question:
Does this car flash the check engine light during full throttle acceleration?

Or only at fairly steady speeds?

 
Rep Power: 0

Thanks ezone, might have a chance to look at it over lunch. Hopefully the cause is obvious.

As far as the CEL flashing, it would happen during spirited acceleration when it would hesitate.

oh btw cylinder # 2 is which one?

 
Rep Power: 518

 
Rep Power: 231

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...der-order.html

 
Rep Power: 518

Dang my image didn't stay up?




Ignore the distributor and wires, cylinder order is still the same





Maybe one of these pics will keep working LOL

 
Rep Power: 0

Took a while but the cel came back, this morning before work I pulled plug #2. Had to really force it to come out, didn't want to come out clean. Well it was dirty, had a thin coat of oil on it. I'd say it was fouled. Wiped it down put it back and drove to work - Misfire and all. Grabbed some el cheapo champion copper core plugs on my lunch and put them in. Used dielectric grease and anti seize. Wow, she runs nice and clean now, what really surprised me was the cel went out after only 10mins of driving! 😆 😊

 
Rep Power: 518

Your trans complaints have mysteriously healed themselves now that the engine runs better?
I'd change trans fluid multiple times to get the unneeded additives out as best as possible.


There was oil standing in the tube for the spark plug??
You might need a valve cover gasket set including the 4 rings for the plug tubes.

Or maybe one of the tube seals got hung up over the edge of the tube during some other work, check closely with a flashlight. You might be able to poke it back to the correct place with a small pocket screwdriver?

 
Rep Power: 0

no oil in the tube at all, all 4 were shiny and clean,

so a little update, 2 days after my last post the CEL came back, but the car seemed to run fine although appeared to me to be down on power. Now this morning on the highway it started hesitating again. Will inspect it tonight and probably replace the plug from cylinder #2. Yesterday I did a few high rpm squirts between 5-6Krpm, wondering if that made it worse/come back.

 
Rep Power: 518

Make sure there isn't any of this going on: