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Hi guys,
Brand new member here, I've been searching the site for a while trying to find a solution to my issue and failed so I made a profile so I can ask the gurus.

Car is losing coolant. Every 300 miles or so I'm filling up the reservoir. What I've noticed is that after a long drive (highway 20-30 miles) the reservoir will be full to the brim or very close to it.

The car has come close to overheating on me twice now, and what I do is immediately throw the heat on full blast. It comes out cold at first but then it will suddenly be super hot and I'll notice the temperature starting to drop.

I'll smell coolant every now and then, especially if the heat/AC fans are on and its set to fresh air instead of recirculate.

So far I've done this to diagnose:
-Thermostat
-Radiator cap
-temperature sensor for the fans
-pressure test (no leaks)
-flush
-checked oil for coolant (none)
-checked coolant for combustion gas (fluid in pump did not react or change color)
-lost my mind worrying about this

Does this sound like the HG to anybody out there? Its minor, so I don't think (hope) any head damage has occurred yet. I just dumped 1500 into fixing the tranny so I'm hoping to not have to dump another couple hundred into the head gasket.

Sorry for the long description. Thanks guys!

 
Rep Power: 208

yes, it is definitely your head gasket,

combustion gases are being pushed through the gasket and into the cooling system, this "air" in the cooling system is then pushing coolant out into your overflow container causing that level to rise and most likely overflow,

do not let the engine overheat, if it overheats you will need a new head along with the gasket

 
Rep Power: 0

Well thats discouraging.

Ok, has anybody had any luck with those liquid head gasket sealants? If I can get a few months out of that I'd prefer it and then pay for it down the road. Times are tough.

Before you reply "DON'T EVER USE THAT STUFF", I know its not permanent and I'm aware of the risks of gumming up the system. But at this point its worth a shot b/c I simply can't afford the repair. I also live in downtown Philadelphia so I can't really do this repair while parked on the street and I have no garage.

 
Rep Power: 208

i dont think a product like that will work on this type of gasket failure, that is made to seal a gasket that is leaking into the combustion chamber, your leak is doing the opposite,

 
Rep Power: 517

Head gasket.

I hate sealers. Some can make it very difficult to effect a proper reliable repair later on.

 
Rep Power: 0

I'm bringing it into the shop tomorrow. I'll keep it posted in case this helps somebody else in the future.

 
Rep Power: 0

They say it's the radiator. How would that push coolant into out of the overflow tank?

They want 600+ for the radiator and new hoses. Can't find a DIY how hard of a job is this? I found all the parts oem for around $160.

 
Rep Power: 208

it would not,

your rad has nothing to do with your problem

 
Rep Power: 517

If the neck of the radiator was burned bad enough from steam erosion, so bad the cap can't seal on the pressure side, that would condemn the radiator.

This normally only happens during a severe overheat. The plastic erodes from the steam blast. The lower sealing seat gets burned away first so the cap can't contain pressure even if you get a new one.

This damage is really obvious in the 2nd pic below. There should be a smooth even surface for the lower cap gasket to seal against.






(By the way, an overheat that eats up the radiator like the above also makes the head gasket problem that much worse, or caused it if it wasn't already bad before.)

A radiator fault should be easy to PROVE.
A head gasket fault is also easy to PROVE if one uses my method.


Radiator from DangerZone: $119.
2 hoses $25
Add $ for coolant and hose clamps
DIY install maybe 2 hours.

Apply the $600 price tag toward the repair that is REALLY needed.

 
Rep Power: 185

+1 head gasket.

As ezone stated, put the $600 towards the head gasket replacement. Check the radiator after or in conjunction with the HG's replacement.

 
Rep Power: 0

What is your method?

 
Rep Power: 517

It's in the first post of this thread

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/36-mechanical-problems-vehicle-issues-fix-forum/340759-overheating-common-causes-reference.html

 
Rep Power: 0

I'd put that rad money towards an all-aluminum one. Aluminum won't melt at coolant light-off temps... plus they cool *waaaay* better than the stock plastic-tanked ones for only ~$30 more...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nEP-FFQnrMs

 
Rep Power: 0

Ok so just talked to my mechanic again. They said they checked the HG w/a compression test and it checked out fine. They said the seal around the radiator cap is starting to erode away. I'm gonna go get it and do this job myself. YAY!

If I'm still losing coolant afterwards (which I probably will be) then I'll find a new mechanic to diagnose the real issue.

BTW, anybody know any trusted honda mechanics in Philly? I used to have a VW TDI and there was a thread on one of their forums that had trusted TDI mechanics. Couldn't find one here for trusted vtech or honda mechanics.

 
Rep Power: 208

a compression test will not diagnose your type of leak,

i have a feeling you are wasting your time and money on a new rad, however, with the age of the vehicle i guess its not a total waste,

make sure to use OEM blue coolant when filling it back up, these engines dont like aftermarket crap

 
Rep Power: 517

....

 
Rep Power: 366

Jeff,
instead of losing your time posting questions, simply....
go to the link and read... it's the internet, you are wasting time sitting in the front of the computer anyway, just go there and click it and read...