2001 Civic Power Window problem
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2001 Civic Power Window problem Hello,
I have a 2001 Honda Civic LX. My issue is occurring with one of my power windows. The rear left window is not functioning. I rolled it down and now it will not go back up!
What is known:
All fuses all fine(20 A).
Not a smoker.
Both the main switch and the rear left window switch do not communicate to the window.
What is strange is that it has done this before and a few hours later it would function as if there was never an issue. But now it has been a few days and the window is stuck in the down position. With my luck it hasn't rained and I live a great neighborhood
I thought it may be something other than the main switch since it has stopped and then later returned to normal operation. Such as a poor or loose wire. Any ideas guys? Thanks!
I have a 2001 Honda Civic LX. My issue is occurring with one of my power windows. The rear left window is not functioning. I rolled it down and now it will not go back up!
What is known:
All fuses all fine(20 A).
Not a smoker.
Both the main switch and the rear left window switch do not communicate to the window.
What is strange is that it has done this before and a few hours later it would function as if there was never an issue. But now it has been a few days and the window is stuck in the down position. With my luck it hasn't rained and I live a great neighborhood
I thought it may be something other than the main switch since it has stopped and then later returned to normal operation. Such as a poor or loose wire. Any ideas guys? Thanks! 
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Re: 2001 Civic Power Window problem
i had the same problem,
my problem turned out to be broken wires, open the door and look for the rubber boot that connects the door to the frame of the car, the wires run through there,
my wires were broken inside that boot, i guess with all the opening and closing of the door and flexing of the wires they become brittle, and broke,
i just spliced them back together and everything was fine, you will have to remove the door panel, and then remove that rubber boot, it just peels back, no tools nessessary, there will be a square wire connector where the wires go into the cars frame, my wires were broke just after that connector,
if it turns out that is NOT your problem, then check the voltage at the motor connection, it could also be a faulty motor or switch,
my problem turned out to be broken wires, open the door and look for the rubber boot that connects the door to the frame of the car, the wires run through there,
my wires were broken inside that boot, i guess with all the opening and closing of the door and flexing of the wires they become brittle, and broke,
i just spliced them back together and everything was fine, you will have to remove the door panel, and then remove that rubber boot, it just peels back, no tools nessessary, there will be a square wire connector where the wires go into the cars frame, my wires were broke just after that connector,
if it turns out that is NOT your problem, then check the voltage at the motor connection, it could also be a faulty motor or switch,
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i had the same problem,
my problem turned out to be broken wires, open the door and look for the rubber boot that connects the door to the frame of the car, the wires run through there,
my wires were broken inside that boot, i guess with all the opening and closing of the door and flexing of the wires they become brittle, and broke,
i just spliced them back together and everything was fine, you will have to remove the door panel, and then remove that rubber boot, it just peels back, no tools nessessary, there will be a square wire connector where the wires go into the cars frame, my wires were broke just after that connector,
if it turns out that is NOT your problem, then check the voltage at the motor connection, it could also be a faulty motor or switch,
my problem turned out to be broken wires, open the door and look for the rubber boot that connects the door to the frame of the car, the wires run through there,
my wires were broken inside that boot, i guess with all the opening and closing of the door and flexing of the wires they become brittle, and broke,
i just spliced them back together and everything was fine, you will have to remove the door panel, and then remove that rubber boot, it just peels back, no tools nessessary, there will be a square wire connector where the wires go into the cars frame, my wires were broke just after that connector,
if it turns out that is NOT your problem, then check the voltage at the motor connection, it could also be a faulty motor or switch,
Please see attached.
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remove that white plastic crap for easier access,
next you need to disconnect ALL of the wires that go through that rubber boot, to get some slack in the wires
next remove the rubber boot itself, you might be able to just pull it loose with your hands, or pry it out with a flat head screwdriver, it might be easier to get access while sitting in the drivers seat,
when you have the boot free from the frame and the door, you can start pulling all those wires through the boot to get you more slack
next you need to disconnect ALL of the wires that go through that rubber boot, to get some slack in the wires
next remove the rubber boot itself, you might be able to just pull it loose with your hands, or pry it out with a flat head screwdriver, it might be easier to get access while sitting in the drivers seat,
when you have the boot free from the frame and the door, you can start pulling all those wires through the boot to get you more slack
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
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You are in the wrong door!
Your problem is the REAR DOOR not the front.
You do not need to remove the panel to find the break.
Replace the harness after you find the broken wire. It's dirt cheap.
Your problem is the REAR DOOR not the front.
You do not need to remove the panel to find the break.
Replace the harness after you find the broken wire. It's dirt cheap.
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remove that white plastic crap for easier access,
next you need to disconnect ALL of the wires that go through that rubber boot, to get some slack in the wires
next remove the rubber boot itself, you might be able to just pull it loose with your hands, or pry it out with a flat head screwdriver, it might be easier to get access while sitting in the drivers seat,
when you have the boot free from the frame and the door, you can start pulling all those wires through the boot to get you more slack
next you need to disconnect ALL of the wires that go through that rubber boot, to get some slack in the wires
next remove the rubber boot itself, you might be able to just pull it loose with your hands, or pry it out with a flat head screwdriver, it might be easier to get access while sitting in the drivers seat,
when you have the boot free from the frame and the door, you can start pulling all those wires through the boot to get you more slack
These are wires are right before the Master Switch. I will continue.
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Can you please explain why it would be an electrical issue at the rear door? Thanks.
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
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The problem is a broken wire in the short section of harness that runs between the rear door and the body. Those wires flex every time the door is opened, and eventually will break. It's almost always the power window that people notice doesn't work first.
Find the jamb wiring for the rear door, peel the rubber back to expose the wires inside, gently tug on each wire until you find the broken one.
The price of the rear door harness is so cheap for that car, I will never cobble a repair on one again. Replacement is far cheaper than my time to repair.
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
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Here's the same jamb harness on my own car
(DIAL UP WARNING! BIG PIC!)
Peel the rubber boot back to expose the wires inside
(DIAL UP WARNING! BIG PIC!)
Peel the rubber boot back to expose the wires inside
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It's easier to prove it than explain it.
The problem is a broken wire in the short section of harness that runs between the rear door and the body. Those wires flex every time the door is opened, and eventually will break. It's almost always the power window that people notice doesn't work first.
Find the jamb wiring for the rear door, peel the rubber back to expose the wires inside, gently tug on each wire until you find the broken one.
The price of the rear door harness is so cheap for that car, I will never cobble a repair on one again. Replacement is far cheaper than my time to repair.
The problem is a broken wire in the short section of harness that runs between the rear door and the body. Those wires flex every time the door is opened, and eventually will break. It's almost always the power window that people notice doesn't work first.
Find the jamb wiring for the rear door, peel the rubber back to expose the wires inside, gently tug on each wire until you find the broken one.
The price of the rear door harness is so cheap for that car, I will never cobble a repair on one again. Replacement is far cheaper than my time to repair.
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Rep Power: 518 Re: 2001 Civic Power Window problem
It could be, sure. You could test for that with a voltmeter and wire diagram and prove good or bad before buying one though, they are not cheap.
Many times (not always) when a window switch goes bad it's because of broken plastic and it feels a slight bit different from the rest of the good switches.
If you think it may be a rear window switch, just swap the switch with the other rear door.
The most common failure I see at the shop is broken wires as described.
Brown/white and brown are the 2 wires that run between the drivers door switch and the drivers rear door switch.
There are other wires involved in the operation, but those are the only 2 that run between those 2 switches.
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It could be, sure. You could test for that with a voltmeter and wire diagram and prove good or bad before buying one though, they are not cheap.
Many times (not always) when a window switch goes bad it's because of broken plastic and it feels a slight bit different from the rest of the good switches.
If you think it may be a rear window switch, just swap the switch with the other rear door.
The most common failure I see at the shop is broken wires as described.
Brown/white and brown are the 2 wires that run between the drivers door switch and the drivers rear door switch.
There are other wires involved in the operation, but those are the only 2 that run between those 2 switches.
Many times (not always) when a window switch goes bad it's because of broken plastic and it feels a slight bit different from the rest of the good switches.
If you think it may be a rear window switch, just swap the switch with the other rear door.
The most common failure I see at the shop is broken wires as described.
Brown/white and brown are the 2 wires that run between the drivers door switch and the drivers rear door switch.
There are other wires involved in the operation, but those are the only 2 that run between those 2 switches.
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If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Rep Power: 518 Re: 2001 Civic Power Window problem
It's easier to just find the broken wire, but sure you can remove it if you wish.
Remove the cover trim for the pull handle and you can reach the window switch.
Or just pull the whole door panel off the drivers rear door, you will need it off anyway to replace the harness after you finally find the broken wire.
Remove the cover trim for the pull handle and you can reach the window switch.
Or just pull the whole door panel off the drivers rear door, you will need it off anyway to replace the harness after you finally find the broken wire.
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Could not find a problem with the wiring. I put the Master Switch back on. Now the front driver side window and rear driver side windows do not work... I am really getting lost with all this trouble shooting. I am narrowing my assumption that it is a faulty Master Switch. The motor on the driver door is getting really hot and I can hear it clicking as if its trying to reset.
*Because of daylight I really just need to get that window up manually. So I'm guessing that is a whole other topic/thread.
*Because of daylight I really just need to get that window up manually. So I'm guessing that is a whole other topic/thread.
Last edited by djsabi; May 18, 2014 at 02:47 PM.
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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The motor on the driver door is getting really hot and I can hear it clicking as if its trying to reset.
The pop noise is probably the internal circuit breaker resetting inside the motor as it overheats.
Because of daylight I really just need to get that window up manually.
apply power and ground to the connector to run the motor manually. A 12v cordless drill battery would work, or jumper wires to any 12v battery.
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
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Brown/white and brown are the 2 wires that run between the drivers door switch and the drivers rear door switch.
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Update: Brought it to the mechanic. I didn't have the time to do a DIY job... limited resources (full time engineering student). I will keep you posted. Thanks much for the input guys.
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