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There isn't a spec on the dipstick that says "at this point if the oil is {here}, the bypass port will open". If Honda designed their engine to bypass at a hair over the MAX hole on the stick, that engineer needed to be fired. It can take quite a bit more than the MAX level before bypass opens... on a warm engine (read on)...

HOWEVER... remember that the bypass is spring-loaded -- it responds to excess pressure. More than just high level can cause high pressure, such as cold oil in freezing temps. Yes, in these conditions, the oil is being bypassed, until it heats up enough to not bypass. That's better than not getting pressure at all (oil will still get to the cams, etc. in that situation, just at the pressure the bypass allows), but it's acceptable, as the engine will quickly warm out of that condition. But that's why the MAX level is on the dipstick at all -- so not matter what conditions you run your Civic, it'll still run smoothly and efficiently.

You'll have to go quite a bit over the MAX hole on the dipstick to bypass with a warm engine. But since too much oil causes other problems (windage, seal leakage), it's best to just stay just at the MAX level for best mpg, power, and reliability.

 
Rep Power: 517

WAAAY too high, yes it can cause oil pressure loss.

The oil would have to be high enough in the crankcase to be in contact with the rotating assembly, the oil would be whipped into foam and foam can't function as a hydraulic fluid. Foam causes pressure loss.

But you'd have to be well past a quart overfull IIRC in that engine for this to happen.

False. All oil pumped by the oil pump passes through the filter before it goes to the oil galleries.

If the filter needs to bypass for whatever reason, it may.

 
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Ok cool, so all in all what in your opinion is the most likely reason VTEC wouldn't be working in my situation? Because i realized today that my VTEC hasn't worked since i bought my car, and I'm pretty sure my oil light wasnt on untill a couple months after i bought the car. For instance what are the chances my VTEC has something internally wrong with it? Or does anyone know for sure if the SRS light can or can not cause it to stop working? Because my car has a salvage title so it has been in a wreck im guessing. I just have a feeling a bad wire connection isnt the issue, I'm just not that lucky usually ha. Sorry about all the questions im just trying to learn as much as i can about it, and i have tried over and over to find someone who can answer my questions as well as you guys have and know body has came remotely close to being able to answer the littlest thing about VTEC for me.

And you have no idea how shitty it is to have a car that cuts out every time you try to go remotely fast...

 
Rep Power: 517

The computer sees something it does not like, and shuts it down.

I'm not going to speculate any more than that.


What happened to "immediately upon receiving the car back from the dealer"?
DAFUQ? This is the first I remember hearing about this. (Did not go through the rest of this thread to see)

SRS has no bearing on this VTEC problem. Systems are completely separate.

Figure out the airbag codes and deal with it. It may (or may not) be a clue as to what happened to the car.

You don't know?

I hear some states can total a car just for being stolen, no wreck.
This is not my area of expertise...


--------------------------------

So... You can google search for how VTEC works and see cam profiles and rocker arms and all that.





tl;dr version:






It's harder to find how the rest of it works. The control side of the system.




When the computer thinks it is ok to do so, it applies power to the solenoid (on top of the valve) which allows engine oil pressure to pass into the rocker arms to make them engage (see other above pics).

When oil pressure is removed (solenoid is shut off), the rocker arms disengage.

Once the arms have engaged (or disengaged), oil pressure change in the VTEC passages causes the VTEC oil pressure switch to change states. This is how the computer checks that the VTEC did actually operate.

If the pressure switch did not do what it was expected to do, a code sets and RPM is limited.



This VTEC system must have over 50 PSI of oil pressure available to it in order to operate. If the main engine oil pressure is too low, it causes all sorts of problems.

There are several other possible reasons the VTEC is setting codes.

Proper service information and systematic diagnostic process should be used to determine the true failure.

HTH

 
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When i was talking about it earlier i realized the oil light wasnt on when i bout the car and the VTEC didnt work the whole time and no idk if it was wrecked for sure, i asked the guy after buying it but he was an *** hole and wouldn't tell me ANYTHING about the car so thats why i said im not sure about it being in a wreck but when it has a salvage title i figured thats what that means..? (Not sure thats the only reason, like you said if its stolen or what ever, and i heard if you lose your title you have to get a salvage title) but i just didnt think about all that being relevant until now. Also i did say the srs light is on, check engine light, oil light, and the seatbelt light stays on because not one of the seat belts in the car works. I just figured that was because if the car was in a wreck the seat belts automatically lock up and need replaced. That is all just speculation, I'm not sure on that. But anyways all this is why i came here and asked all these questions because it seems like i could fix this and that and that... And still have no VTEC!!!

Soooo yea the car needs some love, and i prolly shouldn't have bought it but it was only my second car so i didnt no what all to look for... I drove it down the street and back and it seemed fine, lol it wasn't! Buttttt anyway.... Thats all i no for real this time. So i am going to work on it all weekend and try to fix the things you guys said to work on and see where to go from there. If you have anything else tips or tricks or what ever i will take anything i can get. Haha

 
Rep Power: 517

I stick my nose into so many threads here I can't remember one from the other. I didn't remember the SRS light comments...or I ignored them because they have nothing to do with your main concern here- the VTEC problem.


Seatbelts don't work, you mean the retractors are jammed so you can't pull the front belts out? Crash job. NOT CHEAP.
No wonder the seller wouldn't tell you anything.
I hope you don't live where the car has to pass an inspection.

A prepurchase inspection by a competent and observant tech could have saved you a ton of headaches, or at least you would have had bargaining power to get this pile dirt cheap.

 
Rep Power: 178

SYMPTOM: MIL is on, and DTC P1361 (TDC sensor intermittent
interruption) or P1362 (TDC sensor no signal) is set, or
the engine makes a rattling noise.

PROBABLE CAUSE: Excessive end play in the camshaft.

CORRECTIVE ACTION: Replace the cylinder head assembly.

Applies To: 2001 Civic EX %u2013 From VIN JHMES2...1S000001 thru JHMES2...1S001375
%u2013 From VIN 2HGES2...1H500001 thru 2HGES2...1H535885
%u2013 From VIN 1HGES2...1L000001 thru 1HGES2...1L040006
%u2013 From VIN 1HGEM2...1L000001 thru 1HGEM2...1L028506

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...alf-power.html

 
Rep Power: 0

Well that really sucks, yea seat belts are Jammed, i dont have to have my car inspected where i live so thats good but i didnt figure that would be a big deal to replace seat belts...? Are they super expensive or something?

 
Rep Power: 517

That bulletin only applies to certain 2001s.
OP has an 02 car.





Exploding seat belts are generally more expensive than regular seat belts, but fixing the SRS system correctly is what I was talking about.

 
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O ok, well what will that run me?

 
Rep Power: 517

First you need to see what codes are stored in the control unit.

Take those with a grain of salt, because a SRS controller that has deployed charges cannot be trusted to give complete info. (Been burned by this a few times.)

The typical scenario:

Check codes and inspect what those codes tell you.

There is a whole shopping list of SRS parts that are to be replaced after a deployment. The list can vary depending on what was deployed. Follow that list.

Price yourself the blown seat belts you can see.
Check if the buckles have charges. If they do then those get replaced with the seat belts since they are usually set off in pairs.

Check the air bags themselves, the seat bags, and any others.

Then the SRS control unit will need to be replaced and initialized after all those are fixed. Then recheck codes. Again. Repair any new found codes.

 
Rep Power: 0

Ok so i took all the sensors and wire plugs and everything electric basically and cleaned it and put dielectric grease on it all. I also did the oil pressure gauge, and the oil light is still on... Do i have to take the battery terminals off everytime i do something like this to reset the code?

 
Rep Power: 0

Also if the code doesn't go off what is my next step? Buying a new oil pressure switch? Or testing it to see if its bad? Sorry if i ask questions twice i i try not to but my memory is shot

 
Rep Power: 0

**** idk, that thing you (ezone) sent me with the pictures about how it works and stuff kind of makes me think its oil pressure in general, because it has to have 50 psi for VTEC to work, so i think I'm going to test my oil pressure and test my oil pressure switch and see if that tells me anything. If I'm wrong about this please let me no before i waste my time ha but I'm going to go to my garage and work on it in a few. Thanks for all the help.

know more!

 
Rep Power: 517

What do you mean by 'you did the oil pressure gauge'?



No there is no code for the red gravy boat light, it is controlled by the pressure switch directly. No computer involved.


You ARE talking about this oil light, right?


If you have a different warning light on, let me know what it is.


Either one, depending on how much work you want to do and what equipment you have to work with.
Read the thread. Everything has been spelled out in the thread.


Your oil light, does it come on when the engine is cold? Does it only come on after you've been driving it for a while? 20 minutes? An hour?

-------------------------

Oil pressure varies with oil viscosity, oil temperature, and engine RPM. You need to understand there are variables that come into play.

The oil pressure @ hot idle must be higher than the rating of the oil pressure switch in order to keep the red light off.

The oil pressure ALSO must be above 50 PSI at the RPM the computer activates the VTEC (something like 3000 RPM and higher) in order for all of that to work and make the VTEC oil pressure switch activate.

So here's the printed pressure specs:
Oil temperature at 176%u00BAF, the oil pressure at idle RPM: MINIMUM 10 PSI
Oil temperature at 176%u00BAF, the oil pressure at 3000 RPM: MINIMUM 50 PSI



Here's an oddball FYI: I have fixed VTEC problems by changing to an OE oil filter. The aftermarket oil filter the engine had had too much restriction, it caused too much of a drop in oil pressure.

 
Rep Power: 0

I just cleaned the oil pressure switch with electrical cleaner and dielectric grease, yes I'm talking about the gravy boat light, (genie bottle oil light) haha, and the oil light is on non stop every time i turn the key on, and like i said i never saw it before and it came on when i was on my way home from honda and never has been off since then, idk if thats normal or what...? But i was also wondering if it is note worthy that my engine will always go above 3800 RPMs around 2-3 times when i first start my car (if its cold) idk if that could narrow the list any? And i changed the plug that plugs into the left side of the VTEC. Cause my old one the plastic was broke on it so i figured that would be worth a try and i thought i fixed it for a minute cause it went like 3 miles going above 3800 RPMs the whole time and then it started messing up again same as it was before. So do you think that should point me more towards wiring? Or should i just ignore that?

 
Rep Power: 0

Also i believe that about the filter because i had a 95 civic that over heated really bad and the cause was an autozone radiator cap... Bought a honda one and fixed the over heating...

So i should possibly change to OEM filters? Can the aftermarket cold air intake that is on my car that someone told me wasn't for my car mess it up?...

Lol please dont give up on me i no I'm almost hopeless but i NEEEEEED THIS TO BE FIXED!!!!!!

 
Rep Power: 517

You say the oil light is on solid, all the time, constantly, no matter what the engine is doing now?

Get under the car, unplug the single wire from the oil pressure switch.
Turn the key on.
Is the oil light on or off?


Start the engine. Is the oil light on or off?

 
Rep Power: 0

Ok but i seriously tried to unplug it wen i cleaned it the other day and i could not get it out... Does it pull right out? Or does it screw on or something cause i couldnt really see it to well. Also what is the thing up like three inches and to the left two inches or so from the o.p.s.? It looked like something was supposed to be plugged into it but there wasn't anything, it had like three thick prongs coming out and it was a circle around the prongs...? I will go pull the ops out right now and let you no what happens.

 
Rep Power: 0

Oil light was on both ways. Same as before. But is it a big deal that the rubber boot is broke and dry rotted?

 
Rep Power: 517

It's a round terminal ("bullet" connector), you can twist it. Yes. It usually puts up a fight. Sometimes I have to pry with pliers.


Post a pic so I can see what you are talking about.

I'd guess the knock sensor but IDK.





Make sure it's a yellow/red wire.

So SOMETHING ELSE must have that wire grounded, somewhere between that sending unit and the gauge cluster....

Follow the wire, did someone get it caught under the oil filter?

Follow the wire, my diagram shows it to lead to another single pin connector near the corner of the head, below the heater hoses, below the water pump feed pipe. Same wire colors.
Has someone jacked the wire there? Got it caught? I can't imagine how many different ways someone could hack this up LOL.

I'm looking for a good pic....not able to find one yet.


Not at the moment.

 
Rep Power: 0

Ill post a pic tomorrow, like i said it has 3 prongs coming out that are about the same size as the one that sticks out off the O.P.S. but they dont come out past the metal circle around It and it looks like you can take it off with a socket but idk, and idk if i can put a pic on here, i tried once and it wouldn't let me. I may have done it wrong tho, idk. It definitely looks like its supposed to have something plugged into it. If it is that "knock sensor" tho, what's that mean? Very bad that its know where to be found?

Also i looked at the O.P.S. wire as much as i could see from under the car and it looked fine, and i tried to unplug the connector that was like 6" up the wire but i could NOT get it to unplug, i will fallow the wire all the way up and see if its cut somewhere or something, so does that mean that the oil light is on because the wire is messed up somewhere? Or has a bad connection?

 
Rep Power: 517

SOMETHING ELSE must have that wire grounded, somewhere between that sending unit and the light.


What in the world would your shop have done, what would they have been working on immediately before this happened? Looking for possible places where Human error could have occurred.





So I'd leave the wire unplugged from the sending unit to continue checking......
If I couldn't see anything causing the wire to be contacting any grounded metal, then I might get a helper to sit inside the car and watch the light while I carefully wiggle/move/shake harnesses in the engine compartment. If the light flickers, blinks, goes off, or does anything at all, that person hollers so you know when you get close to the problem area.

Or I might go inside and remove the cluster itself and do more checking from there.

 
Rep Power: 0

Ok ill try having someone help and check the whole wire. But I'm not very good with electrical when it comes to cars, I've never gotten into the cluster or brain or anything like that so i wouldnt even no where to begin... I'll just see what i can figure out without messing with the cluster and if i cant get it I'll see about getting into the cluster, hows that?

 
Rep Power: 0

And here's the thing.... I took the car to honda to do a FULL once over and tell me the condition of the car (and to see if they could fix my VTEC) so the messed with EVERYTHING under the hood. So literally ANYTHING could have happened.... I am going to go work on it at my garage in a few. So I'll let you no if anything changes and we can go from there i guess.

 
Rep Power: 0

How hard is it to get the cluster out and back in without breaking all kinds of clips and making it look like ****? Ha

 
Rep Power: 0

The funny thing about it is when i asked honda what they thought about the car they said surprisingly its in REALLY good shape. All around nice car.... Ha not seeming that way anymore...

 
Rep Power: 517

A $5 test light and some knowledge of electrical basics could go a long way toward figuring some of this out.


Disconnect wire from oil sender on engine.
Test light-- connect it to the wire.
Is the wire testing as "grounded"? (Leave test light connected to the wire......)
If yes, then disconnect all of the wiring form the gauge cluster.
Is the light still on? wire STILL grounded?



Those freebie inspections are supposed to be visual only, no tools involved.
Most would only look for belts, hoses, and leaks.

However, it really is anyones guess as to what really happened.
Until you find the true cause of the oil light being on, we are only guessing.



And if you PAID for wrong answers on the VTEC or any other codes, ............I think you know where I'm going with this..


Gravy. Remove upper steering column cover, remove trim panel around gauges, remove gauge cluster.

But wait, see below.





HOWEVER..... The oil warning light is now a separate problem from the VTEC code.


Got a service manual of your own yet?


I've been thinking (as I was doing some yard work), what color is the wire at the oil sender?
What color is the harness wire at the VTEC solenoid?
The connectors might have been swapped, they look to be nearly identical except for wire colors.
Oil wire is yellow/red.
VTEC wire should be blue or green/yellow.

If someone plugged the yellow/red wire into the VTEC solenoid single wire connector, that could be the cause of half of your headaches.

 
Rep Power: 517

I'm talking about the gray connector here. What color wire is connected to this on your engine?
Check into this ASAP.

 
Rep Power: 517

I found this pic too, shows where the oil sender wire goes