Rep Power: 0

I know I know, if I had a dollar for everytime someone asked..

Yes, I have read the stickies and searched for other threads, but it seems like they all have different issues.

Well here we go.. About a month ago I started a slight overhaul on my motor (d17a2) due to major oil leaks at main seals and oil pan and CEL for faulty catalytic converter. Other than this MOTOR STARTED AND RAN FINE. I pulled the motor/trans and cleaned everything then replaced:

Cam shaft seal
Crankshaft seal
Water pump
Timing belt/tensioner/spring
Rear main seal
Cam shaft plug
Intake gaskets
Header gasket
Valve cover seals
Injector seals
Entire A/C system
Clutch
Pressure plate
Pilot and throw out bearing
Re-sealed oil pan
Cleaned egr valve
Cleaned intake manifold

I replaced these parts and torqued everything down to spec. I returned motor and trans to the car and reconnected all cables and wires just as they were before I disconnected them with exception of the airfilter housing which is still off of the car. Filled motor will 4 quarts of oil (calls for 4.4), filled radiator, power steering reservoir, etc.

Upon trying to start the car for the first time it turned over and fired sporadically. Eventually after a while of cranking it fired up and ran. I held the throttle down for 15-20 seconds after which it slightly backfired and I shut off the motor. After this when I tried starting it would turn over and I could only hear it fire very seldom (at the beginning of cranking every 4-5th try) along with squealing from the starter (most likely got it hot cranking for too long). I disassembled the starter, clean and regreased it, tested (worked fine), then reattatched it. Upon trying to start this time there was no starter squeal, motor tuned over, but no fire at all. This is where I'm at now.

Now to clarify any questions you have for me.
The fuse box and ecu was removed in the process, but are now reattached properly.
The battery cables are secure with no corrosion.
The immobilizer recognizes the key (no flashing green light).
The car is getting fuel (it is flooding actually).
It has to be getting air because there is no filter or anything to block it.
Coils are properly connected to, fairly new plugs that have been cleaned and are properly gapped. I have not checked visually if I am getting spark or not, but I have pulled the plugs and noticeably saw wet fuel on atleast 2 of the spark plugs.

As far as timing goes, I know when I put the belt on all alignment marks were positioned properly before and after installation. I'm not sure if something could have altered this since doing so? But other than that possibility I'm at a loss on what else to do.

Any thoughts or ideas?

 
Rep Power: 517

Looks like you replaced everything except the head gasket. Guess what it needs next.....


Maybe you should look into this.



How's the cam timing?
Got compression?
Valve clearances?

Got any codes?
Scanner data look normal for a cold engine, or not?
ECT/IAT/MAP/BARO/TPS data all Kosher on the scanner datalist, or not?

 
Rep Power: 0

I'll check all this, as soon as I figure out the procedures. Sorry.. Do-it-yourselfer learning as I go.. But in concerns to all of that, could something as major as any of that happen just from replacing the timing belt? (I'm not perfect by anymeans but I feel pretty sure I got the marks all lined up) I plan on taking the timing covers back of this week and checking if all the marks still line up, I'll have to rent a tester and check the codes.

 
Rep Power: 517

Ok...
Yes if you screw up a timing belt job badly enough, you can bend valves and cause all sorts of expensive damage.
If you spin the crank without the timing belt in place, you can "flatten" all the valves that were open at that time.

Did that happen to yours?
I have no way of knowing from where I sit.
The compression test is a good place to start though, establish if there is sufficient compression to run, or figure out if there may have been damage (loss of compression).



Any engine must have 3 things in order to run:
Compression, spark, and fuel.
In the correct amounts, and at the correct times.

What is your engine missing?

 
Rep Power: 0

Nothing was turned while the belt was off but I guess the compression test will be the best place for me to start. I'll check it tomorrow evening and make sure weather I'm getting spark or not. It definitely one or the other. I appreciate the help and I'll update tomorrow after I check these.

 
Rep Power: 0

Well I found the problem.. It was definitely a timing issue, but not what you'd expect. There is obviously some sort of keyway between the cam gear an camshaft, and I'm not sure how ignorant I had to be, but I never saw it when I took the gear off and I never put it back.. Bad deal obviously, now just to figure out how bad.. Gear is chewed up and the end I the cam shaft is chewed up, which I'm assuming means the whole camshaft must be replaced just to fix that issue? ALSO, to go along with all the other awesome things this mishap caused, I'm pretty sure I possibly bent a valve last night before I discovered all this, definitely sounded like knocking. So I'm guess if I'm going to fix this, I'll be buying a new head here in the near future..

 
Rep Power: 208

yup, most likely, along with the cam gear


you can buy a new, used or remanufactured head, or you can have your current head inspected and valves replaced as nessessary, which it sounds like you will need at least a few

 
Rep Power: 0

Yeah, I would just work on repairing the current head but the Honda dealer is the only place I've found a replacement am so far but they want a pretty $400 penny for it, and I'm thinking I might as well buy a remanded head for that..

 
Rep Power: 0

*replacement cam

 
Rep Power: 517

That hurts.



You can probably find a whole engine for maybe 500 or so.

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