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I have an 02 civic, my front driver side brake locks up. I replaced the brake hose. I bled the brake, and I left it sit overnight, I didn't start the car and I didn't depress the pedal, The next day the wheel was locked up again. I also bled the brake and took it for a drive and put the brakes to the test and they were fine, it only seems to happen after the car sits awhile. This only happens to the front drivers side wheel. I have some suspicions of what it might be but I need expert advise so I don't keep changing parts.
Thanks, Joe

 
Rep Power: 518

How tight?
So tight the car won't move?

Some drag is normal and expected even when all is working well.
Even moreso when the pads are stuck, due to rust buildup or stuck slide pins.
Was the wheel able to spin freely at that point?
If nobody touched the pedal overnight them it *shouldn't* be a hydraulic issue, it should be just as you left it the night before.


Humidity + metallic pads + Time = Rust.
The pads and rotor can rust and stick together overnight. Very common. More common if the car sits without moving for any length of time.

Snow and ice (and salt) can make the parts stick and rust together too.
Plenty of times I go to move a car and the brakes are stuck tight enough to go POW and let go, no issue after that initial release.



Describe what you see or feel from the drivers seat that tells you there is a wheel locked up, so I can understand the symptoms


Establish a direction to chase: It's either hydraulic or mechanical.

If it is a brake stuck due to hydraulic issues (pressure buildup), it should release the brake as soon as you pop the bleeder screw loose and bleed off pressure.

If it is stuck due to a mechanical fault, popping the bleeder screw loose would make absolutely no difference.

Which do you have?

 
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it is a hydraulic issue. The pressure bleeds off when I open the bleeder and the wheel frees up.

 
Rep Power: 518

Check the opposite corner rear wheel, see if the brake is tight on that too when the front is locked up. That might be another clue.

Brake fluid not contaminated with petroleum products? (rubber boots and seals swell up big time)

Ok, to track a hydraulic issue, you start at the control point furthest away from all wheels, that is the brake pedal.

Problem must be present before you begin.

Lift the brake pedal by hand or with your toes.
Did the brake release?
Move forward.
Loosen the 2 nuts holding the master cylinder to the booster, pull the master away from the booster.
Did the brake release?
Move forward.
Find the steel line on the master cylinder that leads to the wheel(s) in question. Loosen it, just enough to bleed off pressure.
Did the wheel release?


If the car has ABS, move to that unit. (If it uses a proportioning valve, go there. Whichever is next in order in the circuit.)
Locate the line leading to the wheel in question and loosen it.
Did the wheel release?

Keep moving through the circuit toward the wheel until it releases. When you get it to release, the problem lies 'behind' the point you just touched.

i.e. if the brakes released when you loosen the fitting at the master cylinder, the problem lies inside the master cylinder (if you followed procedure by pulling it away from the booster first, because that eliminated the pedal, booster, and pushrod from the equation).


Majority of issues should affect the brakes in pairs. That's why I said to see if you also have the opposite side rear wheel locking up at the same time as your front (these should be plumbed in the dual-diagonal layout).

If only one wheel is affected, you already replaced the rubber hose and it is not kinked or twisted (people do this), and the car has ABS, I'd suspect it's in the ABS pump.

 
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I checked the opposite rear wheel and it wasn't locked up, just the front left. I loosened the master cyl. but didnt take it off and the wheel was still locked up. I then loosened the line at the abs from the master cyl. marked mc1 and it broke the wheel free. I tightened it up and shortly after it locked up. I then loosened the line the line at the abs marked mc2 and the wheel broke loose. It hasn't locked up as of yet but I suspect it will by morning.

 
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I believe I found the problem. The brake pedal switch was improperly adjusted and was slightly depressing the pedal causing it to leak pressure to the brake that is the closest. Thanks for the help.