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All,

First, hello, I am new here but have used the forum a bit and found good info here.
I have a 2002 Civic EX 1.7 VTEC with some bent valves.....timing belt broke while driving it. Would you folks suggest buying a rebuilt head and if so, can you point me to a reliable and reasonable company? Also, I have not looked too extensively on this forum, but do you think I might find one through here?

thanks,

Ol Bev

 
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how many bent valves?

its probably cheaper to have your valves replaced

 
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I gotta agree with Mikey. Mileage is always a factor. A salvage yard yard head is salvage for a reason, and would have to be tore down and inspected. LKQ has engines for similar prices to a head, unless you found a "pick and pull" facility with a low mileage engine. interchanging components such as a camshaft is a tough call when we have no changeable cam bearings to speak of.

 
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We just send the head to the machine shop, let them deal with it. They decide what to do next, and they stand behind their work.

If they need us to order valves, they call and do so. Or the machine shop might get valves through their own sources.

Seems like we haven't had to replace any heads for just valve damage (that I'm aware of).

 
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Thanks for the replies all! I am not 100% sure how many are bent, I was told to see if the rocker arms were loose and if they were, then the valve was probably bent....it seemed like the majority of the rocker arms were loose.
I did a head gasket and timing belt job on this car about 30K miles ago and it was running fine until the timing belt broke....so the head has been to a machine shop before so I did not know if it should go though the milling and stuff again. When it went before, it pressure checked fine. The car itself has about 219K miles on it and I'd like to keep it going if possible.
I will pull the old head first to make sure I don't have any piston damage, which would obviously change things. I found one on ebay from Odessa Cylinder Head for $305 and have seen them at other places like National Head and Heads Only for around $300...do any of you know whether any of those places are legit and trustworthy?
I know I can get an engine from JDM for about $450, but have read good and bad about them.

Thanks,

Mike

 
Rep Power: 518

Head should not need milled since it didn't overheat. Just a basic valve replacement job.


You had better figure out why the timing belt only went 30k before you go much further. If you don't figure out why, you will be doomed to repeat this all over again.

 
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Ezone, indeed! I was wondering about that b/c the belt did not break per say, it shredded on the side toward the covers and actually ruined the bottom cover; I bought a new one.

I was wondering why the timing belt was drifting toward the cover anyway? I have the timing belt guide toward the engine, then the belt, then the timing belt drive pulley. My belt guide is not flat, should it be flat?

 
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no it should not be flat, it is concave, but its important that you install it the correct way!

the concave side needs to be facing the engine, meaning it should be curving in towards the engine, not curving out toward the belt!

did you use all oem honda parts in the timing belt area?

if you did, this is obviously an installation error....get yourself a good manual and follow the proper procedure when installing the timing belt/tensioner, and spring....

and make sure you use a torque wrench on the tensioner bolt!

 
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Mikey,

Thanks for the info! So, to make sure I have it right...the inner, cupped face of the guide should face the engine, like a backward C, correct?

No, I did not use Honda parts, ordered them from RockAuto....was a Gates belt on there and now it is a FelsPro. I also followed a guide I saw on a forum. I will double check my steps and see about buying a Chilton or Haynes manual. b/c I definitely don't want to do this again soon!

Thanks again for all of the advice!

 
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yes that is correct,

even though the parts were aftermarket, i still think this was an installation error of some sort, there is a specific procedure that needs to be followed when installing the timing belt,

with the old belt removed....

- remove the tensioner from the engine
- line up the holes on the tensioner and install the grenade pin
- install the tensioner with the spring connected to the tensioner only
- tighten the tensioner bolt just snug, then loosen the bolt 1/2 turn
- install timing belt
- install tensioner spring (connect to engine post)
- rotate the crank two full turns and double check TDC marks on crank and cam
- repeat the rotation procedure a second time
- if marks line up properly tighten the tensioner bolt with a torque wrench to spec
- remove the grenade pin

did you follow this procedure????

 
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If it walked outward and ruined a timing cover, then there was a serious error somewhere.

What OTHER parts were replaced during the last timing belt job? Tensioner? Water pump?

 
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Yeah guys, that is where I messed up....I did NOT follow that procedure for the tensioner. I did not do the rotations before I pulled the pin, nor did I torque it to specs.
When I replaced it the first time, I did replace the belt, tensioner, and water pump. Did not follow the tensioner procedure .

When I took it apart recently, the water pump still seems good...at least it rotated freely and the pulley seems tight.

Yep, it was on me....need to go work for that company, Dumass Inc.!

 
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get yourself a haynes manual, and a torque wrench!

read and follow the steps

 
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It happens man... don't fret just get it fixed

 
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All,

Thanks again for all the advice! I ended up getting a rebuilt head from Cylinder Heads International out of TX. I thought it was a pretty good deal, shipped right to my door in VA for $320 with a pre-paid return label for the core. Head looked good and I put it all back together and the car is running like a top! Knock on wood!

Thanks!

Ol Bev