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Is there a method to pull Check engine light codes on a 2001 Honda Civic LX Coupe?

 
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I think there are 2 pins you can jump together on the obd2 plug but I'm not sure. Autozone does free scanning!

 
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Go to YouTube and search for EricTheCarGuy and he has a whole video he did recently that explains how to read Honda codes without a scanner. Awesome stuff.

 
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You can try bridging pin 9 and 4 on the obd2 connector. When you look at the connector it will be pin 1 (top right) and pin 4 (bottom).

https://sites.google.com/site/hondalioness/srs

 
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That's to see what's causing an SRS light to come on. Not check engine light.

Unless I'm sadly mistaken, then kudos to you.

 
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It should work...DLC pin 1 is the old SCS circuit, pin 4 and 5 are grounds.
An OBD2 reader is much quicker.


Why did we drag this thread back from the dead?

 
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I have a SRS light on my car and was looking to pull the code. My cheap scanner can't pull SRS code. I was goggling and this thread came up, so I just updated it. Now I have to go fix SRS code 4-1.

 
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4-1 Open in front passengers seat belt tensioner

First erase code and see if it returns immediately
If it does
Unplug and reconnect the connector, see if the code goes away.
If it does

Search for "terminal fretting", and "Stabilant 22A"

 
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back in the day i had a 5.0 93 mustang, i remember i could check codes using a continuity tester by hooking it up somewhere under the hood and counting the flashes of the light, cant remember the exact process but it did work,

have not seen anything like that on a car recently, or ever with honda,

 
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Jumper the SCS connector to set base ignition timing (distributor) AND to get flash codes from many control units.

Newer cars have the SCS line pinned in the OBD2 data link connector instead of a separate 2 pin connector. Stull has similar abilities, but with flash codes you're kinda limited as far as actual usefulness when comparing to real OBD2 fault codes..

 
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Thanks ezone. I'm getting 2-1 and 9-3 code now. I used a friend Snap-On scanner to cleared the code and 2-1 came back.


2-1 Open circuited In Passenger Air Bag Module
9-3 Faulty Driver Seat Belt Buckle Switch

 
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So there wasn't a 4-1 code?



9-3 needs a drivers buckle (they all do, common failure)


Got any handy info about your car? Year, trim, # of doors, etc?
2-1....Open in passengers front airbag inflator...and it's a dual stage inflator.

Is your car included in the Takata airbag recalls? Has it been done already?

 
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Open glovebox all the way.
Connector is next to glovebox opening, this pic is pretty close.

Unplug and reconnect pass airbag connector, then erase and recheck for current codes.

 
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I have a 2001 Acura EL 4 door similar as the Honda civic ex with SRS. I removed the negative cable and cleared the SRS code twice, but the SRS stayed on. I got it scanned yesterday and those code was in the history and I cleared it. 2-1 code came back after driving the car twice.


It has the Takata airbag both was replaced 1.5 years ago at the dealer. Oh I forgot to mention that I reseat and clean the connector in step 11 already.

Do I need to bridge a 2 ohms resistor like the manual says? I will try to unplug and reconnect the connector. Thanks

 
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2 ohm is used to simulate the resistance of a good airbag inflator.

IF inserting a resistor in place of each of the two firing circuits simultaneously makes that code go away, it would prove your wiring and control unit are good up to that test connection point in that circuit....leaving the other half of that connector all the way to the airbag itself as the source of the problem.


Was the warning light already on when you took it in for the recalls?

 
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I think I found the problem. This round connector on the second image came loose, but I can't reconnect it. I can feel a hole on the side of the airbag where it suppose to go. No, I wasn't getting any light before the recall work was done.

 
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2nd image, yep that looks like the culprit. My guess is shoddy work done by the person doing the recall, the connector didn't get LOCKED into place..
I'd say take it back if it were recently completed, but I doubt you would get anywhere because it's been a long time now.

You probably need remove the complete unit to reconnect the part.

Remove the 3 nuts in the first pic, then I stick a pry tool thru that gap area between the 2 nuts, thru dash frame and the round thing and gently pry the unit upward until an edge pops loose up out of the top of the dash. Then you can work the edge up until the unit is loose and remove from the dash. The dash-colored cover is quite flexible.

The connector that came loose must be oriented a certain direction (it may fit 2 ways when the pins are aligned, 180* apart), and if that one came loose there's nothing to say that the other one was correctly installed either. If you look into the end of the inflator where that connector came out, there are little dark gaps that kinda form a "T", the connector needs to be oriented likewise.

I can't get pics for a while.

 
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Ok, Thanks. I will try to remove it next week.

 
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I can probably get pics later in the week if you want some.

 
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Sure, that will be nice.

 
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I removed the airbag, fixed the bend pins and connect it back. I find the connector was a little loose, so I used electrical tape to band both connectors to the airbag body.

 
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Sorry I didn't get any pics, I was only at work 2 days last week and I haven't had a passengers inflator to replace since my previous reply.
The connector that you found out of place was never correctly installed during the recall, apparently. Those little round connectors have a death grip once they are correctly installed.

 
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Yes, that is what it looks like. The other round connector was tight. The light hasn't come back.