Rep Power: 0

The reason it would be out of time is if the spring was broken and you tried to crank it then the belt could easily skip a few teeth because there is not enough tension on it.

30Oz of oil in each hole is a LOT. How exactly did you blow that all out?

The proper way would be to crank it with the plugs out. Unless you did that, chances are good that you didn't get all the oil out and it hydro-locked. You said you heard a THUNK right? That is never good. No healthy engine ever thunks.

Best thing to do at this point is to pop the timing covers off and verify it''s still in time and the spring is in place. Then pull all the plugs out and crank the motor so any residual oil squirts out. Now you can attempt a compression test. Post the results here.

If you don't want to do that, then pull the head off. You will most likely have bent valves. Next measure how deep in the hole each piston is at it's TDC. If they're all the same height at their respective TDCs then you most likely don't have bent connecting rods and can get away with just repairing/replacing the head.

If one of the pistons sits lower than the others or ff your pistons have dents or cracks from the valves hitting them, then you need a new motor.

Here's one I found for you, $750 shipped, not bad.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/01-02-honda-...0ca9db&vxp=mtr

 
Rep Power: 518

About 3/4 of that would have been on the ground to start with LOL

 
Rep Power: 221

Did you add the oil and start the engine with the spark plugs installed?

 
Rep Power: 0

Ok maybe im just not being clear enough.. I took off the timing covrrs saw that the spring was broken then replaced the belt, spring, water pump and tentioner set it at TDC. Then tried to crank it and got the sound of the video.... Then I did what ezone said, except the first time I put the spark plugs back in, hydrolocked it. Took the plugs out, blew the oil out, put the plugs back in, then it again sounded like the video. Now im here...

 
Rep Power: 518

Ok maybe im just not being clear enough..

Try to be even more clear.




I took off the timing covrrs saw that the spring was broken

Did the cam and crank become "out of time" in this disastrous event?


then replaced the belt, spring, water pump and tentioner

........so the broken spring trashed the timing belt?

set it at TDC.

Again: were the cam and crank not "in time" when you took it apart?





FUKITOL: Run a compression test, and cylinder leakdown tests. See if the leakage is from the valves.
Or just yank the head off and looksee at them.

 
Rep Power: 0

ok, yes the timing was not at TDC when I took the covers off, there was just a ton of slack in the belt. The belt was not broke but I bought a kit and just went ahead and put the new one one that came with it. I still have the unbroken one. & ok, I'll prob just pull the head off and go from there.

 
Rep Power: 518

An engine ALMOST NEVER stops at TDC.

You were supposed to roll the crank to TDC and check the cam timing before taking the timing belt off.

 
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There was no tention to crank it until we put the new belt and tentioner and spring on. We didnt crank it at all until we put the new pieces on. But either way i'm sure it prob has bent valves so ill take the head off and check.

 
Rep Power: 313

You need to remove the head and check for internal damage. You have 0 compression in your cylinders with the timing set correctly. Your belt slipped the only solution is to remove it, check for damage, repair, and replace. Sorry ezone, but I feel strongly that's what needs to be done.... As I've mentioned it about 100 times. You can beat around the bush all you want but your car has been out of commission for days and if you want to repair it you need to get a move on.

Now I'm starting to get nasty.. *sigh*

 
Rep Power: 0

So I just did the compression test with 0's across the board. Just kike you all thought. St this point im jist going to look to replace the engine.

 
Rep Power: 0

Daam! I thought you might get at least a few PSI's of life in at least one of the holes.

Definitely get a new motor. but in the mean time pull the head off so you know how to do a head gasket for future reference. Take pictures of the mangled valves and post here.

If the pistons are good with no dents or cracks in them and you can measure that they all go up and down the same amount then hold on to the bottom end. Look around the classifieds, soon someone will blow their turboed d17 and you can sell them the bottom end. Heck if i lived close by I'd buy it off you just to build a turbo motor out of it or to play around/learn with!

 
Rep Power: 253

Hate to say this at this point, but your really supposed to change the tensioner after you do a timing belt job.

Im still not clear, is the timing correct at this point?

Unfortunately blue is probably right.

 
Rep Power: 0

Rule of thumb is water pump and tensioner should last twice as long as a belt.

 
Rep Power: 0

Where the car stands at this point. Timing is correct, car will not start, 0 compression on all 4 valves. Haven't had a chance to take head of yet. Saving money for new engine. Does anyone know what i'm looking to get quoted to put the engine in once I am ale to purchase?

 
Rep Power: 313

That's the rule of thumb, however it's better just to replace it.

 
Rep Power: 253

Like in this case and a few others, after the used tensioner is touched it may fail For $100 give or take it is a good piece of mind in my opinon.

 
Rep Power: 253

Probably close to $800 or so.

Why not just pull the head and send it to a machine shop?

Will probably cost alot less. However thats only if the pistons are ok.

 
Rep Power: 0

same thing here
injector stuck open, hydrolock the engine, timingbelt sliped, bend 4 intake valves, ended with 0 compression.
replace the valves the car is driving great now with 180 psi compression on all 4 cyl.