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2004 Honda Civic EX 4dr, 5 speed MT, 56K

So, I've had a thread about clutch issues for a while, but I wanted to start fresh. The recap is basically that the clutch feels heavy and it engages really high plus the bite point is very sudden. At a recent service, I removed the slave cylinder from the trans and changed the trans fluid, later reattaching the SC once I had looked everything over. For some reason, the clutch felt perfectly normal after that. I have no idea what I did! It lasted for a few days, but now it's back to it's old ways. Could it be the SC or something else to do with the hydraulic system? The car only has 56k on it, so could it really be the clutch itself going? The hydraulic system does not lose fluid and I see no signs of external leaking. Also, SOMETIMES when I push the clutch down I can hear a strange squeaking/creaking noise coming from under the hood. Any ideas? Thanks guys!

 
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Shift cables maybe?

 
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FYI: The clutch MASTER cylinder is the part that the pedal operates, it sits on the firewall.
The clutch SLAVE cylinder is the part on the transmission.
Get it right. Speaking in wrong terms lets everyone know exactly how much you know about cars.

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On the slave cylinder: Was the rubber boot full of fluid?

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Check for proper free play between the pedal pushrod and the master cylinder.

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56K? Doesn't matter. A clutch can be ruined in a matter of SECONDS. Clutch life depends entirely on the operator.
On a properly working system, pedal engagement height does not change with clutch disc wear UNTIL the disc is almost completely worn out. Then the pedal gets "higher".
Once that happens due to wear, the pedal does NOT go back to normal until the clutch job is done..... So it sounds like your problem is in the hydraulics right now.

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For the squeak, follow the PDF link here
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=869
Check your VIN# against the VIN ranges listed in the bulletin.
The bulletin may not address all possible causes of noise, some make noise at the trans or the pedal too.

I have done a few for the noises, but I have not seen one that caused a wrong pedal height.

 
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"Speaking in wrong terms lets everyone know exactly how much you know about cars"

Just to clear things up, I don't know much about cars, just the basics, that's kind of why I'm on here asking for help, advice, and suggestions.

Thanks for the info. Changed the slave out the other day, seems to be doing well for now. I posted in a previous thread about a knocking noise coming from under the hood when I reverse under load. Thought it was a broken motor mount. Changed that, knocking is still there. Trans possibly? Trans mounts?

 
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I realized that. Sorry if that was too blunt.

Well, the only way to know is to find it. Make it happen and track it down. All the gory details of when it happens and how you make it happen.
Guessing gets expensive.

For all I know based on your description thus far, it could be anything from chipped gear teeth or a bearing in the trans to suspension to your exhaust banging under the car, to, ummm, a dropped wrench caught on the subframe somewhere. See what I mean?

Since some of us would probably notice a whole lot more about conditions than you, how about you making a video of the noise, also show how you are driving to make the noise happen? What area (of the engine compartment?) is the noise loudest?

 
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I changed my clutch fluid about a week ago and the cold chatter is gone but the engagement point remains high. I'm pretty sure I need a new clutch as mine has 123k of hard delivering miles on it.

 
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Is a good possibility if you have high engagement.

 
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I recently bought a honda civic ep2 and have noticed that my clutch is also very heavy (or stiff), my friends told me it was normal but I wasn't used to it after driving a VW polo (small european hatchback).

Did changing the slave cylinder solve the stiffness?

Also the squeaking when pushing the clutch pedal is caused by the push rod of the slave cylinder rubbing against the clutch fork. Due to lack of lubrication through the years this has caused the metal push rod to become worn which gives it that squeak when rubbing against the metal of the fork.

 
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hey guys, thanks for the replies. I'm working on the video of the rattling noise when I reverse, but since its hard for me to reverse the car while figuring out where to position the camera, it's taking some time. As far as the slave is concerned, yes, changing the slave has helped the noise and the stiffness somewhat. I noted that some people suggest you put some sort of grease on the fork, but others say that is a bad idea. So maybe more input on that would be appreciated. The clutch still engages high, but I had a friend drive my car (he's much more experienced around Hondas and cars in general) and he said it felt normal to him, so perhaps it is just me. I've driven F-250 Diesel trucks my whole life, so I was amazed when I felt how much heavier the Honda clutch was and how high it bit. But I guess I was comparing apples to oranges. Still, I have put money aside for a clutch job should a situation emerge.

 
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I use Hondas Urea Grease http://www.bernardiparts.com/Honda-S...8798-9002.aspx on all metal-to-metal contact points. Use sparingly. You don't want so much that it could get into the friction material of the clutch. Pushrod, fork pivot, T/O bearing ears and the area it slides on, the surface of the TO bearing that contacts the pressure plate fingers, and the splines of the input shaft.

Drive another car like yours for yourself. You can't compare it to other brands.

 
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Finally got the video. I apologize in advance for it being at night and in car, but it's the only time of the day where it's quiet enough for you to hear it on video.

The noise is slight, but if you turn your speakers up, you can catch it. Idk what it could be, perhaps a mount or something? It only makes the noise in reverse as I let the clutch out and the car starts to move, especially if the car must reverse up an incline. Also, I noted hearing a FAINT sound similar to this when I downshift (say to second) as I let the clutch out and the engine begins to slow the car.

Any thoughts? Working on a better video of under the hood. Just gotta figure a place to mount the cam so it won't fall.

[autostream]http://autostream.com/ibcivicforums/?page_type=firebirdplayerthumbnail&framepage=1156& transactionid=1326717219-501133695&posted_by=em2maxamillian_www.civicforums .com&youtube_video_id=LPwpjfpVr5g[/autostream]

 
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Sounds like a soft, low pitch, rapid series of pops in the video? I can't tell much about it other than that yet.
Does it shake the car or is it just a noise you hear?
Was your foot all the way off of the clutch pedal, or were you slipping the clutch when it happened?
Does the car HAVE to be moving for the noise to happen?
Can you hold the brake on so the car doesn't move, and make the noise happen?
If you can make the noise occur without moving the car, have a helper track down where it is coming from while you make the noise happen.

 
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Yes, that is the sound I'm hearing. The car does not shake, it is just the noise I hear. When the noise sounds, it is only as I am letting the clutch out, once it is fully engaged (foot off) the sound does not occur UNLESS I downshift the car (driving forward). There have been occasions where I have downshifted into second, and as the car is decelerating, I hear the noise but it is much less pronounced than when I am reversing (the clutch is fully out in this case but you can also hear the noise as I am letting the clutch out to drop it into second). In the case of the noise happening in reverse (which is far more noticeable), the noise seems to happen just as the car is beginning to move (when the clutch is beginning to engage).

It honestly sounds like something is knocking against something. My gut tells me its a mount or something based on the what I've experienced because it only occurs when the trans is under some sort of torquing load. Does the motor/trans torque a certain way when reversing or decelerating? The only mount I've changed on this car is the front mount near the radiator, so I doubt that would have cleared anything up. Thanks for the help again, appreciate it.

 
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Sooooooooo..........
As the engine moves, the noise happens. The engine pitches forward as you go backwards, and also moves same direction under any deceleration. Does this sound correct?
Maybe any motor mounts not bolted securely?

Or is it a noise in the clutch pedal (creaking, popping)?

Noise in the engine compartment area, or rear of the car? Exhaust movement with engine movement crossed my mind.

Definitely tough to diagnose over the internet.

A thought: set the car on flat ground. Engine off. Shifter in 1st or reverse, doesn't matter. Handbrake OFF. Push on the bumper, rock the car back and forth so the engine moves back and forth. Does it make the noise then?

I think you need a couple more people to listen while you make the noise. See if anyone can narrow the noise to a specific area.

 
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thanks again for the help. still trying to diagnose the problem, will let you know how it goes. You seem to know your ****. Just another fast question: My AC compressor is making a lot of noise only when it's engaged. Best way I can describe it is a squeaking or something that sounds like the bearings are going bad. AC still works fine. Just wanted to get your thoughts on it.

 
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Ummm, have you ever heard all of the many different noises that bad bearings of various designs can make?

#1: Does the AC still work and get cold???

An AC compressor DOES make noise when it is running. If it was perfectly quiet, it wouldn't be working.
Radiator fans should run full blast while the AC compressor is on too.

How much noise is too much noise? Kinda subjective.
Compare it to a similar car before you freak out.

Again, I can't hear what you hear.

A belt can squeak and squeal. Dribble water on the belt and see if the noise changes. Tighten the belt or replace it if necessary.

Most rumble/growl/rattle noise is internal inside the compressor.

Use a dowel or a long screwdriver as a cheap stethoscope, locate the noise source.




These I almost never see issues with unless someone has touched them and screwed something up:

Rumble/rattle? Is the compressor and its mounting bracket secure and tight against the block? Check all the bolts.

All of the AC hoses and pipes can rattle and vibrate when the AC is running, and as the engine moves around on its rubber mounts. Make sure they aren't in contact with anything, and are secured at their proper mounting points.

 
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That right there.