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Long time lurker, think about taking my first crack at under the hood repairs that doesn't involve fluids or filters.

Had a CEL light come on and off a while ago (I think p2000), but cleared and didn't come back. Now I have a consistent p0135, which is the expensive wide-band o/2 sensor... correct? I see the sensor, think I have the right wrench, and see a bosch sensor here for $125

http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/200...io_sensor.html

This is much cheaper than what majestic is quoting (closer to the typical $250). Will this be okay. Should I risk it. I'm also planning to degunk my EGR valve since I noticed my mileage has been slipping over the last year.

So question, what will I screw up? I know keep the sensor clean, put a tiny dab of antiseize on the threads only... what else?


Edit, oh yeah, at 97K miles.

 
Rep Power: 811

the problem people are having with bosch lately is they are switching around and putting the wrong sensor in the box. so be sure that it looks exactly like the old one you took out before installing it. they used to be fine and were just repackaged NTK sensors which is what honda uses, but i think lately theyve been having problems. otherwise its pretty easy to replace. getting a special sensor socket helps too if the old one is stuck. may be worth paying the $250 for a sensor that will last another 100k miles.

The EGR many times cannot be cleaned due to the carbon deposits being hardened on. but you can try to see what comes off. get a new gasket too, usually the old one will not reseal and you will get an engine code.

 
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Thanks. I'm pretty sure I have a socket that will work. Bought one for my gf vw, and the sensors look to be about the same size.

So, in your opinion, is it probably worth avoiding a hassle by going with this?
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...3-5S4347-24155

 
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link doesnt work, but ntk or denso sensor should be fine.

 
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Strange, all the denso sensors seem to have a female adapter, while mine is most certainly male.


Edit again... the replacement part numbers looks right, but I can't tell if this is a pre- or post- cat sensor.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...___#fragment-1

Four wires, heated, the connector is right. Ideas?


Okay, this link says pre-cat, excl california. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...AMS_1776873832____

Confusing as heck.

 
Rep Power: 188

Id take gearbox's adivce and spend the money on a direct factory replacement (but not through a stealer)...I've read about a lot of problems when people try to cheap out on these...

I replaced mine...20,000 miles or so ago and no problems...I think it ran me into the $180 range

 
Rep Power: 811

just go with www.hondaautomotiveparts.com honda sensor and forget about it. you will get at least another 100k out of it which is worth paying more. if you get the wrong sensor (putting a secondary in place of a primary) the car will run like crap. and its very hard to tell the difference until its installed. the tips are a bit different but thats it. at least on the regular civics. i would be even more careful with the hybrids because the instrumentation is much more precise.

 
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Thanks everybody. I just called a few dealers, and none would tell me exactly what part they would use. But I called a honda certified shop, and he said they use the NTK 24665. He orders from the same parts system as all the local honda dealerships (They all charge $380 for the stupid thing) So, for $100 difference between this and the GB's link, I think I'll risk going through Advance. Advance seems to have a good return policy, and at $200 before discounts, I don't feel exactly like I cheaping out much.

Before I install, if I see any difference in the tips, it's going straight back for a refund.

At worst, I'm out a few bucks, and the forum will have yet another valuable data point.

 
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Well got the sensor today. Pulled out the old one, it was a Denso. The tips were a bit different looking. Slightly larger "holes" (for lack of a better term), but bit the bullet and tried the NTK. A few minutes later, car sounded good starting up, cleared the code and it stayed off. Drove around the block, all sounded good, no light. I'm declaring victory. Now waiting for the hurricane to blow over before attempting to degunk and regasket my EGR valve. If it's really bad, I might just replace it. Anything else under the hood worth degunking. My MPHs have been really bad for the last 15000 miles or so. Used to consistenly get 40 or so city, and 50 or so highway. Now I'm getting 33/38, and engine has been idling a bit rougher, and maybe feels a bit sluggish accelerating?

Thanks everyone.

 
Rep Power: 811

you could take apart the throttle body sensors like IAC and stuff and spray those down with carb cleaner too. denso and ntk are pretty similar so you should be fine.

 
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Learned a valuable lesson about properly soaking engine bolts before removal, snapped the front bolt off my EGR. Eventually got it out with some vice grips and a lot of bloody knuckles. Porbably so rethread, but think I managed to catch enough of them with the new bolt. Next question, got the EGR out, sprayed down several times with throttle body cleaner, used a soaked q-tip to ungunk as much as I could around the valve. Still plenty dirty, but once i got it on, I think it's idling much smoother (could be the cooler weather though). However, my MPG have gone to crap, down under 30mpg for the first few miles. Getting back up to low 30s on my drive in to work today (non highway, but not a lot of stops). I read that cleaning the EGR can lead to some wonkiness for the first tank of gase, but is this consistent? Haven't gotten to the throttle body yet, I like doing things one at a time so I know what to troubleshoot if the car doesn't start.

 
Rep Power: 811

yeah the car does get a bit weird because the ecu has to adjust for the different flow rate. over time it will go back to normal or better like few hundred miles.

 
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Odd, just got a warrenty extension notice for my secondary and third heated 02 sensors. It only runs through 80K miles. What the heck is the third heated sensor, I thought this car only had two, pre-cat and post-cat. What did i just replace... I thought it was the primary (pre-cat)

 
Rep Power: 811

i see two by the lower cat (#17) looks like they are sold as a kit.



and one in the upper cat manifold #8