Rep Power: 0

short story, my car is dead today. It was running fine for 5 minutes then suddenly crapped out on me while the car was idling at the stop light and won't turn back on again. It tries to start, but shut off right away. I can rev up the engine right after I start the car, but it still shut off.

I towed it back home and tested for spark and I got spark on all 4 coil on plugs. When I was testing for spark, I noticed that no fuel shot out of #1 cylinder(the one on the far right). It's the only one that has no fuel coming out of it. Could it be a clogged injector? How should I test this?

The car has no code and I recently replaced fuel pump and fuel filter about a couple weeks ago. Also did the timing belt and all other stuff around that area a couple months ago, so I don't think the timing belt snapped on me. The engine still sounds normal and I see the parts moving inside the oil cap when I try to start the car.

Thanks guys.

 
Rep Power: 234

Sounds like you're on the right track with the clogged injector. Try cleaning it. Weird that it didn't throw a code though.

 
Rep Power: 511

I'd also look at the electrical connections for the injectors.. See if you can find a way to test electrical continuity between the injector plugs and the pins going into the ECU.

 
Rep Power: 234

Place the business end of your screwdriver against the injector and your ear against the handle and listen for the clicking of the injector. You WILL be able to hear it distinctly, if you don't you're deaf or the injector maybe bad.

If no clicking, look for the brown wire, it's for injector 1. With ignition switch ON(II) you will have battery voltage (12-14V, whatever you're battery is putting out).

If you don't have voltage at the brown wire then you need to trace the wire back to the ECM/PCM plug B(24P) terminal 5. It's the 2nd plug from the bottom and is the only 24 terminal plug. The brown wire is the only brown wire in that plug. Look for breaks, especially at the firewall or just run a new wire.

If you do have voltage then clean or replace the injector.

*If you have to clean or replace the injector clean or replace them all. When you clean or replace 1 injector sometimes it will overwhelm the other injectors, causing them to stay open and hydrolock the engine= a new engine.

 
Rep Power: 0

First of all, I'm really sorry for the late reply. Something urgent came up and I had to leave town for a week. And thank you so much for the instruction on how to check the injector. I'm gonna try this tomorrow.

Also, while I was gone, my brother told me that he tried unplugging the crankshaft sensor and the car is able to start and won't turn off, so he replaced the crank sensor with a brand new one, but still the same problem after he plug the connector back into the sensor.

So I'm kinda confuse about this. Since the car is able to start while crank sensor is unplugged, maybe the injector isn't bad or clogged after all? But i'm positive that no fuel shot out of the 1st cylinder. I tested it like 5 times on that one. Sorry for being such a noob.

Thanks again

 
Rep Power: 234

Switch injectors and see if the problem follows the injector in question.

 
Rep Power: 0

I have all the injectors cleaned at the shop yesterday. The injector for the first cylinder was almost clogged up. It can barely spray. After having them cleaned, they all spray evenly now. Also checked all the connectors with meter and they are all fine.

The car still turn off on me though when I try to start it. I replaced the cam and crank sensors and still the same problem. checked all the fuses and they are all ok too.

The only way I can get it to start is to have the crank sensor unplugged. Any idea of what else can cause this? And I don't understand why there's no code store in the ecu. It does show up the code p0355 when I unplug the crank sensor, so it seems like the ecu is still ok