loyaltohonda

Hey everybody! New to the forums, but it looks very promising!
I need someone's help in a matter!

My car's specs:

Honda Civic 2001 EX Coupe 2 Door 1.7L VTECH Engine


I took my car in and there is a crack in my header! It was a DC Sports brand 4-1 header and looks to be about a market value of $230 or so.

I call a place and they can get a replacement header (unknown brand) for $203 plus $15 shipping and handling.

So I figure, heck, why don't I just order the part online myself?

I found this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Exhau...8033#vi-ilComp

Is this too cheap? Too good to be true? The thing that scares me is the engine type stating "D17 1.7L L4(4 Cylinder/4CYL)". Is that my engine type?

Secondly,

I was told that my right bushings "in my tire" need to be replaced. I have searched online and cannot find this mystery bushing. It is not the control arm bushing, rather one in/near my tire. I would greaty appreciate any help on this as well. Total cost (including labor I belive) is $230.

Thanks so much for any help provided!!
Cheers!

-Matt
Help is greatly appreciated!!!

Prodresurgence

you have a d17a2 motor.

A bushing near your tire... there's 2 on the lower control arm which is probably the issue or but not likely a sway bar bushing. There are no other "bushings" there. As for other elements with rubber that some dummy could've called a bushing...ball joint, sway bar link, tierod end, CV joint, they all have rubber boots on them that could be cracked. Use those as keywords to find out where on your suspension they reside and you can check them out for yourself. Hope that helps.

loyaltohonda

Thanks for the quick reply!

So the header I have put up is a d17 L4 correct? so I need a d17 A2 header?

Apparently my uncle may have been a bit misled on the "bushing" in the tire. It is more than likely a wheel bearing that is bad, however your "ball joint, sway bar link" theory may be correct. I will look into it a bit more. Is $230 a pretty fair price to repair that? Could I probably do it myself?

Thanks again!

EDIT: How do these look?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Megan...Q5fAccessories

http://www.m2performance.net/product...productid=6038

Prodresurgence

Yup. Though I'm not sure about the links you attached, the 4-1 looks like its at an angle, but it does say the right model car so it should work. I'm personally a OEM guy, but I think if I had to replace mine Id go with a DC header. Wheel bearings are pretty tricky, I just replace the hub assembly which is about $150 for the part. Why do you think the bearing is bad? Do you hear a loud humming noise from that wheel when driving? If my car has a problem I usually keep driving with the issue for a few weeks until Im entirely sure thats is the problem; especially in your case when you'll be paying someone to do the work. If you do replace the hub yourself, you'll need a press or access to one.

loyaltohonda

Hey Prod!

So you hit it on the nail basically.

I currently have a DC header (P/N HHC5019) as it stands now, with a crack in the middle, slightly. By the way, any warranty's on these things I should check into? I'm thinking about having it welded, but would that be foolish? It seems like an such an easy fix when glancing at it. maybe I should upload some clear photos? How about installing myself? Easy job?
Also, when you say the "4-1 one looks like its at an angle" is that the ebay header (first link)? Or the M2 Performance (second link)? Thanks!

I just got off the phone with the shop I went to and my "Right Front Hub Bearing" is making some cranking noises when turning. They say it's $245 out the door with everything for it. Now I need a press to lift the car to access this? Nothing a jack and taking off the wheel can fix?

If you have any links or such you would like to share, such as OEM headers, feel free. I'm not looking to spend TOO much, as a shop has a mystery brand header for $203 and with the $268 DC header I have being on the fritz, I'm not looking to buy another one.

Thanks SO much for you speedy help! Great to have it!

Sincerely,
Matt

Prodresurgence

Crack in a DC header, wow. I would certainly try to get DC to replace it. How old is the header? Anyways, about both of the links you attached... the connection where the pipes all come together forming the actual "4-1" looks like its at an angle and Im not sure if the OEM part is, it may very well be but I don't remember without looking. Looking at this attached diagram of the original part then comparing it to the links, the lower connection to the rest of the exhaust pipe does look angled, so i have to believe those links you attached are for a different type of aftermarket exhaust systems. And if we could back up, did you have a OEM manifold when you bought the car or it came to you like that? If I were to purchase the OEM manifold ($125) I would buy it off of http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com . Oh and I wouldn't bother welding it unless you know someone who would do it for cheap like less than 100 bucks. Take a picture or two I'm curious to see how it cracked.

$250 for a bearing isn't too bad, its an easy job if you have the right tools but in your case where you don't have a hydraulic press (not to lift the car, thats a jack, but to press in parts, pins. etc. ) it would cost you more to get all the tools than you would really save on doing it yourself. So if I were you pay Honda to do it.

Prodresurgence

Oh and I just re-read your very first post, I forgot you already told me you had a DC header, whoops. Anyways, that very first ebay link does looks like it would work for you if you don't want OEM.

lazlong

OEM is $75 here: http://www.bkhondaparts.com/billkay/...itch=&hidIrno= or here: http://www.hondapartscheap.com/south...t=0&quantity=0 Shipping for both places is about $20.

loyaltohonda

1) When I bought the car, it came with the DC Sports header (also known as a manifold?).
2) I will try to get pictures up maybe later today when I'm free and you can see. 'lazlong' posted a couple of links with some pretty cheap parts though. I would rather pay around $100 for a new header/manifold, then get it welded and possibly break AGAIN.
3) For the press, that's what I assumed but sites I looked at seemed to imply a lifting "press". Now my friends installs struts and springs for tires and he uses this device that squeezes the spring together so it can fit into the wheel. Would something like that be a decent enough press? The press was able to fit around Sportsline springs (same as in my car). Perhaps I could try and get photos as well.


Hahaha no worries man! Okay I'm glad to know that could work hopefully.
Did you see lazlong's post? Those parts look pretty good.

Greatly appreciated friend! Am I correct that I would just need the Illustration #1 and #2 parts? Do I need the cover? Is it a good idea? Doing the installation myself also seems fairly easy, or is it difficult?

As always, GREATLY appreciate the help!

-Matt

Prodresurgence

There you go man even cheaper. Heres a post I responded to not too long ago about doing the same job. You don't need the cover btw. https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...ease-help.html

lazlong

Heatshield isn't exactly necessary but, it's cheap insurance to keep all the stuff around the exhaust manifold from melting or catching fire. I would get it. If your doing the install yourself you also need #15 and 16 (2 of each): http://www.bkhondaparts.com/billkay/...itch=&hidIrno= Those bolts are a b**ch. Hit them with penetrating oil first then if they don't come off just cut them off.

loyaltohonda

Sweet deal man!!
Read the post and it seems pretty straightforward. Basically the bolts are gonna suck. But I'll see, might just have the place do some labor if my uncle and I aren't up to the job. Either way, thanks for the help!

Lazlong,

Awesome links!!
So I buy part #1 and #2 in the original links and then 2 each of part #15 and #16 in the second link? (Also, the link was for a muffler, but I'm assuming it's just the same nuts and bolts that can be used for the header right?)

You both have been a great help!
I'm going to get an estimate on the labor for the header and talk to my uncle about doing it ourselves and will be sure to share the verdict soon!

Thanks again!

Sincerely,
Matt

lazlong

Correct. (Your looking at the muffler on the right. Look at the front of the exhaust on the left and you'll see #15 & 16 too. That's why it calls for 4 total each, you only need 2 each.) Good luck, keep us posted.

Prodresurgence

No prob, basically if you can get the bolts out of the engine block its a really easy job. Like I said in the other post make sure you have a bolt extractor socket set even if you return it after, have it for the job.

Good luck!