P0335 TDC Sensor Malfunction! HELP!
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P0335 TDC Sensor Malfunction! HELP! Ok, as the title said, I am throwing the code P0335. My car will not rev past between 2.5 and 3.5K, depending on the temp and throttle position. (I am in limp mode!)
What I have done.
I ordered a new TDC Sensor from Honda, 51.95. When it arrived I pulled the 80 amp fuse and the 15 for the ecu. I then went through the process of replacing the TDC Sensor. After I was done replaced the fuses and started the car. Still in limp! I then went to Auto Zone to erase the code with an OBDII Scan tool. Still came back on. I then took it all apart, to make sure I had done it correctly, and went back to Auto Zone. Still in limp mode. I then purchased another sensor from the guy on here for 10.00. It came in today. Installed it, went to AutoZone to erase code and still in limp. This rules out the fact that it is the sensor. I then checked for voltage at the plug. I have the 5 volt that I am supposed to. This leads me to believe that it may be the cam gear. So if anyone has any ideas or suggestions I am open to them all. I am not going to take it to Honda. I can do this, just need a little help.
What I have done.
I ordered a new TDC Sensor from Honda, 51.95. When it arrived I pulled the 80 amp fuse and the 15 for the ecu. I then went through the process of replacing the TDC Sensor. After I was done replaced the fuses and started the car. Still in limp! I then went to Auto Zone to erase the code with an OBDII Scan tool. Still came back on. I then took it all apart, to make sure I had done it correctly, and went back to Auto Zone. Still in limp mode. I then purchased another sensor from the guy on here for 10.00. It came in today. Installed it, went to AutoZone to erase code and still in limp. This rules out the fact that it is the sensor. I then checked for voltage at the plug. I have the 5 volt that I am supposed to. This leads me to believe that it may be the cam gear. So if anyone has any ideas or suggestions I am open to them all. I am not going to take it to Honda. I can do this, just need a little help.
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You might be off a tooth. check the matchmarks on the crank and cam pulleys. make sure the cam gear is tight and torqued to specs.
If the belt IS off a tooth, something made it that way. You are gonna have to take the timing covers off (yay!) and check and make sure the tensioner is still providing tension and that the spring is still sprung up correctly. If you did not replace the tensioner, it might have gone bad. fun stuff :-) if you did replace the tensioner, be sure you torqued the bolt up to the proper specs in the right order - if you torque it and forget to loosen it 180 degrees when you are stringing the belt I don't think it works well. After the belt is strung and on the correct way, then you tighten it fully.
If the problem appeared right after you changed the timing belt, you probably had it off a tooth and didn't notice after you put it back together. if you had good use out of it for a while and then got the CEL code, I'm thinking something went wonky with the tensioner or your install wasn't right.
Good luck. If the timing belt is all correct, I'd say you've got some sort of electrical problem somewhere, but electrical gremlins are really hard to figure out, and in our cars they are really not common at all.
I can't think of anything else mechanical it could be - any other takers?
If the belt IS off a tooth, something made it that way. You are gonna have to take the timing covers off (yay!) and check and make sure the tensioner is still providing tension and that the spring is still sprung up correctly. If you did not replace the tensioner, it might have gone bad. fun stuff :-) if you did replace the tensioner, be sure you torqued the bolt up to the proper specs in the right order - if you torque it and forget to loosen it 180 degrees when you are stringing the belt I don't think it works well. After the belt is strung and on the correct way, then you tighten it fully.
If the problem appeared right after you changed the timing belt, you probably had it off a tooth and didn't notice after you put it back together. if you had good use out of it for a while and then got the CEL code, I'm thinking something went wonky with the tensioner or your install wasn't right.
Good luck. If the timing belt is all correct, I'd say you've got some sort of electrical problem somewhere, but electrical gremlins are really hard to figure out, and in our cars they are really not common at all.
I can't think of anything else mechanical it could be - any other takers?
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OK, here is an update.
I took the car to Honda this morning. They said that they would diagnose it for $46.00 and tell me exactly what the problem was. I could live with that.
So I drove 30 miles at 40 mph and sat in the waiting room for about 1.5 hrs to hear that my ecu needed a reflash, and after said reflaslh...........It threw a different code.
The service guy told me that the ECU/PCM needed a reflash to accurately diagnose the problem. So he did this for free, no charge. Then they diagnosed the problem as the CRANK POSITION SENSOR not the CAM POSITION SENSOR. I have been replacing the cam position sensor this whole time. He told me that I would have to pull the drivers side motor mount and lower timing cover and timing belt and a bunch of other stuff. He lead me to believe it was quite a big ordeal. So I signed on the line and told them to keep the car and fix it .................................................. ..................................I then talk to ADAM, Green, he tells me that it is no bid deal to replace the crank sensor and that I am an idiot for letting them, Honda, do it......
So, I expect a phone call from the dealership tomorrow sometime telling me that I need to give them my first born as payment for my car.
Let this be a lesson, find out if your ecu/pcm needs a reflash before diagnosing any problems.....
I took the car to Honda this morning. They said that they would diagnose it for $46.00 and tell me exactly what the problem was. I could live with that.
So I drove 30 miles at 40 mph and sat in the waiting room for about 1.5 hrs to hear that my ecu needed a reflash, and after said reflaslh...........It threw a different code.
The service guy told me that the ECU/PCM needed a reflash to accurately diagnose the problem. So he did this for free, no charge. Then they diagnosed the problem as the CRANK POSITION SENSOR not the CAM POSITION SENSOR. I have been replacing the cam position sensor this whole time. He told me that I would have to pull the drivers side motor mount and lower timing cover and timing belt and a bunch of other stuff. He lead me to believe it was quite a big ordeal. So I signed on the line and told them to keep the car and fix it .................................................. ..................................I then talk to ADAM, Green, he tells me that it is no bid deal to replace the crank sensor and that I am an idiot for letting them, Honda, do it......
So, I expect a phone call from the dealership tomorrow sometime telling me that I need to give them my first born as payment for my car.
Let this be a lesson, find out if your ecu/pcm needs a reflash before diagnosing any problems.....
Registered!!
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 338
Likes: 1
From: SoCal OC / LA / San Diego
Rep Power: 273 Re: P0335 TDC Sensor Malfunction! HELP!
OK, here is an update.
I took the car to Honda this morning. They said that they would diagnose it for $46.00 and tell me exactly what the problem was. I could live with that.
So I drove 30 miles at 40 mph and sat in the waiting room for about 1.5 hrs to hear that my ecu needed a reflash, and after said reflaslh...........It threw a different code.
The service guy told me that the ECU/PCM needed a reflash to accurately diagnose the problem. So he did this for free, no charge. Then they diagnosed the problem as the CRANK POSITION SENSOR not the CAM POSITION SENSOR. I have been replacing the cam position sensor this whole time. He told me that I would have to pull the drivers side motor mount and lower timing cover and timing belt and a bunch of other stuff. He lead me to believe it was quite a big ordeal. So I signed on the line and told them to keep the car and fix it .................................................. ..................................I then talk to ADAM, Green, he tells me that it is no bid deal to replace the crank sensor and that I am an idiot for letting them, Honda, do it......
So, I expect a phone call from the dealership tomorrow sometime telling me that I need to give them my first born as payment for my car.
Let this be a lesson, find out if your ecu/pcm needs a reflash before diagnosing any problems.....
I took the car to Honda this morning. They said that they would diagnose it for $46.00 and tell me exactly what the problem was. I could live with that.
So I drove 30 miles at 40 mph and sat in the waiting room for about 1.5 hrs to hear that my ecu needed a reflash, and after said reflaslh...........It threw a different code.
The service guy told me that the ECU/PCM needed a reflash to accurately diagnose the problem. So he did this for free, no charge. Then they diagnosed the problem as the CRANK POSITION SENSOR not the CAM POSITION SENSOR. I have been replacing the cam position sensor this whole time. He told me that I would have to pull the drivers side motor mount and lower timing cover and timing belt and a bunch of other stuff. He lead me to believe it was quite a big ordeal. So I signed on the line and told them to keep the car and fix it .................................................. ..................................I then talk to ADAM, Green, he tells me that it is no bid deal to replace the crank sensor and that I am an idiot for letting them, Honda, do it......
So, I expect a phone call from the dealership tomorrow sometime telling me that I need to give them my first born as payment for my car.
Let this be a lesson, find out if your ecu/pcm needs a reflash before diagnosing any problems.....
Registered!!
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 338
Likes: 1
From: SoCal OC / LA / San Diego
Rep Power: 273 
Registered!!
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Re: P0335 TDC Sensor Malfunction! HELP!
Sorry for the epic necro on this thread, but after much searching this is the only thread which accurately depicts what has happened to my 97 prelude with an H22.
It cut out at high rpm while getting on the highway, threw the P0335 CKP code, and is stuck in limp mode (which sounds god awful btw). Is there anything I should check before ordering a new crank pos sensor?
It cut out at high rpm while getting on the highway, threw the P0335 CKP code, and is stuck in limp mode (which sounds god awful btw). Is there anything I should check before ordering a new crank pos sensor?
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