Rep Power: 266

I tried posting this on another forum and I didn’t get answers to what was asked, so I will try it here.

Ok first of i will go over what im planning then proceed with the questions then get yours answers to why it wont work ... hah ok maybe i will get lucky on the last part.

Ok so i bought another head for my A1. Im planning on a bisimoto level one regrind with stock valvetrain. Consensus seems to say the stock ecu can handle a level one camshaft and will be about 5-ish horsepower. Well i have been bored and exploring the option of milling one of the extra heads around .030" which for the older d-series equals about a one degree retarding in timing. Also its seems that the older d-series ecu could adjust the 1 degree in timing without problems so i would think the newer ecu should be able to handle it.

Ok now with the questions,
First, will the ecu be able to handle the stage one camshaft? how about both? im looking for well based opinions because im not sure this has been done before. I really would like to have this cheap NA setup while i save my money to do a decent boost setup, if i cant keep the stock ecu then i will just bear with what i have but i think it might actually work.

second what kind of valve clearance are we talking about on a stock head and block? Just wondering if clearance is going to be and issue on any of this. i dont really know any of the important measurements in looking into this and havent been able to find them. I would assume its not a problem considering i believe the stage 3 crower cams can work on stock pistons on the A2 but its always nice to ask now.

third any reliability risks in this two modifications? if done properly that is? i think my plan is to strip the head and have it milled, the camshaft sent to regrind then putting the two together and doing an idle relearn. as long as there is no problems i will run that setup then send the other head for a P&P with a level 1.2 regrind ( for turbo) from bisimoto, when i get the money for the turbo and everything. if i have problems with the first head setup i will just switch the one thats still stock back on and be good as new.

finally, I know its dumb to ask you but i havent looked around for shops yet on the milling. Anyway anyone know a typical cost for having a stripped head milled properly? I'm just curious on what you guys have seen it cost not a big deal but its possible you guys might know.

Ok so what are your guys opinions on the ECU and valve clearance? Im not looking for tons of power or anything just for some extra pep for under 1000 dollars without tuning. Yes i know it will run better and make more power with some kind of aftermarket tuning but thats not possible right now. Please, PLEASE, dont talk to me with the swapping of the head conversations, or the why dont i do a swap or just buy this instead or anything else concerning trying something else, i want opinions on what has been asked and things closely related to them. thanks guys

 
Rep Power: 281

You have a million questions in here. To be short the ecu will be fine with a stage 1 camshaft. I'm assuming you have a d17a2 if you do not you'll need custom cam regrind. As for the valve clearance I believe the recommended spec is .006 intake and .008 exhaust. Stock clearance is .007-.009 intake .009-.011 exhaust. AND DON'T MILL THE HEAD. Yes crower stage 3 work with stock pistons but anything over stage 1 requires serious ecu tuning for the car to run properly. Hope this helps.

 
Rep Power: 811

DO NOT MILL THE HEAD! lol and ecu will work with stage1, but an adjustable cam gear will allow you to tune it better on a dyno, as will an air/fuel controler. not needed, but you can squeeze more power out of those expensive mods.

 
Rep Power: 313

hmmm good info in here.

but sounds like youll need k pro,

for some for these mods...

 
Rep Power: 266

yes i know i will be getting k-pro when i turbo i just dont want to fool with the 3 hr drive to tune an extra 10 hp in there with the k-pro right now.

secondso if i understand the specs correct the .03" mill would put the valves into the pistons correct? or am i missing something? i know the older d's did fine with it for what i have heard so i thought i would look into it since i have the extra A1 head.

I have an A1 now and I am staying with the A1 but i talked to bisimoto and he said he could do a regrind for it so thats not a problem and thats good to hear that the ecu will take it just fine.

 
Rep Power: 388

Another one heads to the turbo side.

 
Rep Power: 266

blame colorado after i read this thread: http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=36621

i decided since i live at 6186 ft and drive alot of places where i go up alot higher that a turbo is a better choice. im glad i did all the NA research though, i know the engine alot better know and lots of the stuff still applies.

boost will allow me to gain back the lost power from the altitude and then some so it just the beter choice for my location unfortunately. I guess it will save me the moeny in the long run but dont think im happy about it.