Rep Power: 0

So I just got hold of this 02 Vic , Lowered, tinted windows rims, body kit, needs a door to be replaced.

So For some reason it doesn't start, its not getting gas so I check fuses, their all fine, then I figured its the FP, check it its fine.

For some reason the previous owner decided to wire all types of crap, all he did was make spaghetti. I removed all the old Stereo wires (remote for amp,rca's ground power) Some other crap wires with phone jack ect.

While I had the Glove box down and out, I noticed that the air bag was gone, looking around further I noticed 2 relays, one of the relays had a cut wire, So I connected this wire back, soldered and heat tube, go to start the car, what do you know, it fires up but with some issues. Now that its started their is an idle fluctuation, while that is happening this relays is clicking and the CEL is flashing.

So I check under the hood and notice that for some odd reason the 3 wires to the TPS are cut, so I solder them and heat tube. Star the car again, and still the same problem. So the I figure out that the TPS is loose, So I do some adjustment to the TPS no big change though. I turn off the motor, Strat it back up, same situation, loopy idle, relay clicking and the CEL is flashing whith every click. If I leave the car running for a little bit (5 mins) the CEL will stay on constant and the idle will fix (I guess the ECU is taking over).

Fine good enough, I figure let me rev the engine see how it sounds. I play with the throttle but I hit a wall, from a guesstimate (sence their is no rpm gauge) I can only rev to 3500 rpms, it can hold there but seems to be hitting a rev limit, any further than this the car wants to stall. So I figure it could be be a a bad injector. So I pull the spark plugs, sure enough each one is BLACK as night. I clean them off and put them back in. I guess its not lack of fuel or the spark plugs would be white. I start the car with the cleaned off spark plugs and still the same scenario.


I checked some other wires, to see if they were disconnected or cut but didn't find anything. In the trunk their is a spare (?) Intake manifold, So I guess at some point they changed IM's for what reason I don't know.
So Now I think it may be blowing spark so some reason. I have not yet pulled the codes but I will tomorrow.

Some info that may be relevant / irrelevant . AEM cai, Catback exhaust,
Clifford Alarm, enforcer immobilizer (comes with a little key you have to insert before you can start) which makes no sence to me, because from what I understand, this car comes with a factory immobilizer. Also I have the Green Key flashing on the cluster, my guess is they didn't do the immobilizer correctly.


So now I'm at the point to where I am going to check codes and see what I get.

Any help would be great!


Valentino

 
Rep Power: 290

The little green key flashing is saying the immobilizer accepts the key so your okay on that front. Pop the ecu fuse out of the engine compartment fuse box and reinsert. start the car and let idle with out any accessories. Thats the only think i can say to do until you check codes. Hopefully someone else will help you out.

Why did you get this car anyway??

 
Rep Power: 227

ok, I am not positive about this, but what you are describing (rpm-limit ~3500, black spark plugs, CEL's, etc) sounds like "limp-mode" to me. I understand it is sort of a mega-rich failsafe mode to get you home (or at least off the road).

If it were me id check all the Ecu wires to the pinout, verify all sensors, check for grounds (read = not much fun).

But, if after all that, you KNOW your electricals are solid, then everything else starts to make more sense. U know anyone with an oscilloscope? If not, you have a multimeter?

 
Rep Power: 0

I was reading a thread about idle problems, cleaning the IAC and TB, I'll do that just to make sure their clean.

I'll remove the neg bat cable then try removing the Fuse(s) , to clear/reset the ecu.

And I have no oscilloscope but I do have a good multimeter. has all types of functions.


Thanks for the help.


oh, got the car from a private owner, he got it from a tow company, they got it from ???

 
Rep Power: 0

O,m Today I did the reset.

Disconnected the NEG (-) batter terminal, waited about 30 mins then reconnected.

I then removed the FI ECU Fuse in the engine compartment fuse box, waited 20 mins then reinserted the fuse.


Go inside started the car, CEL is on, no clicking or loopy idle, so I let it Idle for about 20 mins.

So after the 20 mins of idling I figure its time to rev to see if their is a difference. High hopes is what I had, but to bad so sad for me. Same crap.


I took a ride to my local AutoZone, loan-a-tool , $160 head back home.
Alright! I get to see what the problem is!? Right........ Wrong! I connect the Scanner to the OBDII port, IGN key to ON, Hit the read button, after a min or two I get an error message. ERROR, check connections and retry.


Now what, maybe the Scanner is bad ? So I check the scanner on my 07 Tundra, nopez its not bad, worked as it should on the tundra, so the Scanner is good.

Now I go on the hunt for the ECU. I take apart the center console and see the ECU, all is connected, no apparent problems with the wiring. I push on the the connector to make sure their seated correctly, they are. I notice Two (2) Connectors, 1) Is a Brown connector with 1 wire, not connected to anything and I cannot find any where it would plug into. Its BLue(?) with a Green Stripe (?).

Then their is Connector 2) ,4 wires with yellow tape on the wire loom, I'm guessing this is what the Airbag was pluged into, the wire are now cut though. (air bag was taken out because it was blown.


So now i'm stuck, I cannot read codes and cannot find any problems (myself) in the wiring.


help.

 
Rep Power: 0

anyone....?

 
Rep Power: 0

L M F A O join the club buddy maybe we should make a meet where all the cars that have this problem would hang out and say that this sucks. welcome to my world. i myself have the same problem but i also have the battery light on, and before you take it to honda i already did for a diagnosis and they said that sumthing for the fuel on my ecu is bad, it cost me like 180 sumthing dollars. they said i needed a new ecu so i bought a used ecu and they said that it wouldnt take the codes, they said it might be the ecu so i got a refund and now im waiting on a guy on here thats guna sell me one for $30 buks plus $10 dollar shipping, ill let you know what happens when i try it. mine is still driveable but does that idle thing where CEL blinks, relay clicks oh and yes the relay that clicks is for the fuel, but you should check with the scanner at multiple times cus sumtimes it does let it read the codes. ill keep posting. oh dont waste money on a new relay cus i tried it and same **** happens. i think mine happened cus on of the bolts from my alternator was loose after i replaced my engine , after the second day when i started her up with the new heart it like jolted bad and my gauges went crazy then i saw that the long bolt was almost comming off, i put it in right and its been like this for a long time, but dont give up we will get this fixed always with high hopes.

 
Rep Power: 0

oh by the way when you have the battery connected dont touch the yellow wires, they are the ones that go to your airbags and they might blow, thats if you still have the driver airbag, you have to wait couple of minutes after disconnecting the battery. just incase you didnt know that.

 
Rep Power: 0

Thanks (?) for the info, lol

So this sounds kinda bad for me. I was thinking a bad sensor or bad wiring, my last guess was the ECU. Might have to find one of them now.

 
Rep Power: 289

How much did you pay for this headache, I mean, car????

 
Rep Power: 0

A headache is exactly what this car turned out to be. A $2,500 Headache, so it hurts more.

Today I had some time to check it out a bit more, went through some wires trying to find a cut or short somewhere. I couldn't find anything obvious.

What I did notice though is thatWhen I first start the car, while that Relay (brown one behind glovebox, fuel pump?) clicks and the rpm, for lack of a better word, Skips, If I give it some throttle it will go to what i'm guessing is redline but as soon as that Relay stop clicking and the CEL is steady I cannot rev and it bogs.


A few weeks ago I rented a OBD scanner and it kept on telling me to recehck my connections and try again, so I never did get to check for codes.


If I could find a wiring diagram for the 02 EX it might help me in figuring out this problem.


Any help would be great.

d5685090 ; How did that ECU work out for you ?

I'm wondering now if a motor swap was done, because I did find an extra Intake manifold in the trund, wire loom under the hood is cut open, some wires were cut. I'm begining to regret purchsing this car.

 
Rep Power: 242

you can buy new wiring harnesses from majestic honda I do beleive. If it is that scetchy then that could be it.

 
Rep Power: 242

by it, I mean your solution.

 
Rep Power: 811

did this ever get fixed? if the tps sensor was loose, theres no way you adjusted it to spec unless you used a service manual and a multimeter. buy a new throttle body off ebay and try that first. but to be honest, that car has serious problems if random and very important wires are cut all over the place. was this a practice car for the local auto shop noobs to play with? lol.

 
Rep Power: 0

No, problem still not fixed.


I rented the OBDII Code Scanner, again....

Still will not connect. I attempted making the connection over 15 times, nothing.

Does it have to be a specific code reader? I have been using the Orange one from Autozone.



A question, when I insert my Key, that Green key light in the cluster flashes,
When I start the car that green key light remains flashing.

From what I've read that light is the Security reminder for the immobilizer. it should flash when they key is inserted, but should shut off when the car is started.

I've googled and googled over and over searching for some type of hope for a good direction to the solution.


Help, please, i cannot take this any longer.


-v

 
Rep Power: 811

green key flashing indicates problem with immobilizer system. technically the car should not even start if it stays flashing. and if the obd reader wont connect, the ecu is screwed. any reader will work, i have some small generic one from ebay i got for $40. but i would try a new throttle body first. then try and find a replacement ecu or look at the wires to see whats going on. maybe there is a mess under the glovebox. if he tried to install stuff, there may be a bunch of tapped or cut wires all over the place. take off the glovebox and have a look. thats where ecu is

 
Rep Power: 0

Thanks for the Info gearbox,

Lastnight I removed the TB cleaned it out a bit. I checked the IAC, I put voltage to it it doesn't move really, just slightly but not the full half turn. Also it doesn't stay in the position that it moves to, it just clicks back.

I put everything back together today, did a ecu reset. Started it let it idle for 20 mins then shut it off. Started it again but still the same problem.

Then I was looking at the belts and realized that their is no belt around the AC comp.

I've been looking @ the wires to the ecu and I haven't noticed anything out of the norm. I found a post here with the pinouts for the ecu, so I check the wires that are supposed to have power, all the wires that say should have power, had power.

I think a motor swap was done @ some point i'm not 100% though.

Q. If I change the Ecu, will I have to change the Ignition or have to get the ecu programed to my key ?

I'm going to post a short vid of whats going on.
-v

 
Rep Power: 811

yeah changing the ecu means you need a key programmed for the immobilizer. try the throttle body first, its only $50 on ebay and could solve all these problems.

 
Rep Power: 0

And it continues.



Today I went to a wrecker and picked up a complete tbi (throttle body).
Installed it, and the same ol' crap.

Engine light is On, Green key IS Flashing. and when throttle is applied it bogs.

I did try to reset the ECU, maybe I'm doing it wrong. Before installing the new(?) tbi, I dissconeted the battery cables, took out the FI fuse. After I installed the TBI I reconnected the battery then installed the fuse, started it and left it idle for 15min, shut the ignition off completly then to the on postion, the started it. As soon as I start the car the engine light is one and the green key is flashing alog with the bog with throttle.

My next guess is the ECU, wonder where I can borrow one from...



I'm nearing the end, though I don't want to give up I just might have to.



valentino

 
Rep Power: 245

is it a D17A1 or A2? vtec or not? manual or auto? i may have a ecu u can have. depending on what your car is

 
Rep Power: 0

DieMaster,

2002 Civic (ex?) 5spd 1.7l non vtec. How can I check ot make sure what exactly this motor is ?

Thank you for you help.

Valentino

 
Rep Power: 245

if it's a DX or LX it's a A1 if it's a EX then A2. check the code right below your uper radiator hose.

PM me your address i'll send u a LX or D17A1 ECU

 
Rep Power: 0

I just checked the code on the block.

D17A-1.

I then pulled the ecu out. Ecu prints:

37820-PLM-L04
2414-329926
UL

In total three (3) connector plug into the ECU, 2 on the top, skip 2 empty locations then the last connector on the bottom.

v-

 
Rep Power: 0

After running my VIN :

Year/Make/Model: 2002 HONDA CIVIC DX
Body Style: COUPE
Engine Type: 1.7L L4 PFI SOHC 16V

fyi.

 
Rep Power: 0

So I took a quick video of the idle problem, and some pictures of the car today. Maybe this will help some to diagnose the problem better.

description : When I first start, I let it idle for a few, then I stomp the gas, lift off, then I slowly bring the throttle then try to go further, I tried this twice.

Video -6mb


Stamp on block -d17a-1
Fuse box
Engine Wire Harness
Throttle Body
TPS wires
Full motor-right
Full motor-left

 
Rep Power: 0

bump

 
Rep Power: 0

Well now, ain't that odd.


Today I was set to purchase an Ecu with Key and Ignition. Before I go and spend the money I figured I would double check some wires, and change the spark plugs from the Bosch plat2'. I got some ngk's installed them. Started the car, SAME PROBLEM.

So I started going through wiring under the hood. I found 3 wires kept together with a metal tie, it looks like they were poking/probing it because it has, well poke holes. Then I fighure out these wires (wht/blu wht/rd wht/grn) go to the alt. For some reason the alt is not very secure, I can actually move it with enough force given. I checked the wires, no apparent problems.

So I begin to think about the TB I just purchased, maybe its the wrong one? I took it off, installed the old one. WHile I had the "new" one off I figured to clean the IAC. Took it apart, sure enough it was gunked up and wouldn't move. I cleaned it and it moves fine now. So I take out the old tb and reinstall this one.

I reconnect the neg cable insert the key and notice something before I start it. The green immobilizer key on the cluster is NOT flashing. hmmmm very interesting. So I start it, and I replicate something I haven't been able to in some time. The immobilizer relay clicking and cel flashing. I let it idle until the fan turns on, kill the ignition then restart the car. Again it accepts the key, relays is clicking, cel is flashing and also the battery light is ON.

While someone is watching in the engine bay I gun it.... While the relay is clicking and the cell is flashing, I can rev it up high, while holding it @ high rev someone is watching in the engine bay. Bam, cel clicks on and stays on, battery light shuts off. and I hear "Do that again!" I killed the car, restared it, and now it Green key on the cluster is flashing again.. damn it.

So I ask "What do you want me to do again?". "Rev it high" I ask "Why, what did you see, was their something?" . " Yeah I seen sparking, but i'm not sure if it was coming from the alt".


So now the green key in the cluster is flashing, and I can't get it to replicate the cel flashing relay click again so that I can rev it to see if we can see where the spark is coming from.

Question : 01-05 mtx ex,dx,lx 1.7 throttle bodys are the same? Mine has different numbers than the original on the IAC and TPS sensors.


I'll try to replicate the relays click and cel flash tomorrow and post a video.


-v

 
Rep Power: 245

it looks like theres a few fuses missing. your light could be from lack of power from a blown or missing fuse. also theres counication lines going from the imoblizer unit to the ecu. the wire could be getting shorted.

if theres ANY signs of shorting or grounding out etc u need to fix it. dont just assume evreything is fine.

sparks from the alt is totaly posible. the ECU controls a voltage to the alt. the more voltage the more amps the alt pumps out to charge the battery and meet electrical demand.

i should have gotten the key and imoblizer from the car when i got the ecu. i didnt know at the time.

 
Rep Power: 811

get the alternator fixed. same happened to mine where the bolt was about to fall out. as for the tb, did you get the right one, it has to be same transmission type as you have.

 
Rep Power: 0

When I picked up the TB from the Salavage Yard I asked for a 02 EX mtx. I do not know how to be sure it is the correct one. Later I found out my car is actually a DX. From what I've gathered EX vs DX . ex=A2, dx=A1 , So it is possible that I have the wrong TB.

Yesterday I was trying to follow the immobilizer wires from the ignition down to the ECU, I couldn't find them, I'll have to do some more probing today.

Another interesting thing, while I was going through some wires I found that someone was already probing, because their are poke holes in some wires.

I did tighten up the alt yesterday, now its solid. I'll have to check out the fuses for the 100th time.


Thanks.


Valentino

question: what numbers should be printed on the IAC and TPS for a 02 DX MTX ?