Rep Power: 0

So I was reading on here that the cars that only have heat while moving could've had a bad water pump, Or bad thermostat but then i read on how much work was involved in removing the water pump so i just took it to the mechanic and told him the car doesnt have heat while the engine is on idle. He told me it was the water pump and gave me the b.s about the timing belt so I said fine just get it working.
The next day i went to pick up my car and it turned out his credit card machine was broken and i told him the only reason i came here was because you said you accepted credit card so he ended up using someones merchant account to charge me and today while driving my car The same problem I paid $650.00 to fix started happening again! and he even did something wrong because the rpm limiter sometimes kicks in at 4,000 RPM's . He told me it was my torque converter!!! I said, Its a damn stick shift it doesnt have a torque converter! then when he saw i wasnt any other dumbass he said "we change timing belt, that has nothing to do with governor" I replied yeah then why did it start doing it after you worked on it? So i ended up leaving all pissed off. Im just gonna file a credit card claim because him telling me that told me he was just trying to F$CK me over. What could cause the rpm limiter kicking in at 4k RPM? and if he changed the water pump could i have a blown head gasket?

 
Rep Power: 295

I'm a noob in mechanics myself, but the bs about the timing belt was probably that since he is going to change the water-pump, might as well save the labor on the future job. In any event, not being able to rev past 4k sounds like safe-mode to me.

I'd honestly say take it to Honda to sort out the issues..

 
Rep Power: 319

Well, first off, have someone check your timing belt to make sure he actually did it. If not, get a good shop to put that in writing and file a calim agianst him on your credti card. Or maybe you can get some how that is preformed unneeded worked.

The heat problem is wierd, but keep in mind that when the car is still, there is no air moving around it, and it sucks air from just infront of the wind shield. So when you are still, the air flow will go down, but there should still be some and it should be warm. If it is blowing cold air out, when you stop, something is wrong for sure. Anyway, the not revving past 4k sounds like a safe mod, perhaps you have some bad gas, try a bottle of dry gas, you can get at any gas station for $0.99 or so. If that doesn't help, take to a certified shop.

 
Rep Power: 303

Timing belt has NOTHING to do with this problem. However, they now created a new problem. IF they even changed the belt. If they did, it's probably out of timing and putting the ecu in safe mode. I think you blew $650.00, and got your car worse. I actually became a mechanic because of all the inept and BS shops.
The heater problem is usually caused by air in the cooling system.

Well, good luck.

 
Rep Power: 0

Damn! Well if thats the case then im going to a honda dealer so they can give me a diagnostics also if they tell me what caused it (i know the person who worked on it) Because it never did that before. But anyways this guy did things all wrong , turns out the merchant on my credit card will show upas a restaurant charge and i never signed a receipt for the charge.

 
Rep Power: 0

"TINMAN" how do I remove the air from the lines?

 
Rep Power: 453

turn your car on and turn the heater on and loosen the radiator cap and let all the bubbles arise to the top.

 
Rep Power: 303

Yep. Heater on full blast. You may have to rev the engine SLIGHTLY. Like 2000 rpm. Add coolant as needed. A common honda issue. The old motors actually have a bleeder on top of the head.

 
Rep Power: 0

**UPDATE**
I went back to the shop today. Now according to him the only problem I have was that I have to change the heater valve. I guess its the part thatopens when you rais your temp from cool Blue to red inside the dash. I guess that 35.00 piece was the only thing wrong from the beggining. I made an appointment with honda so they can give me a second opinion and if it is in fact just that piece I have to send the diagnostics to my credit card on a company letter head from honda. Guess i have to wait and see now.

 
Rep Power: 303

I doubt it. After looking in the manual, I think the shop is just guessing.

Do this:

Turn the fan switch OFF
Press the recirculation control switch AND the rear window defogger switch.
While holding BOTH switches down, turn the ignition switch to ON (position 2), then release both switches.
The recirculation and rear window defogger indicator come ON.
The recirculation indicator goes OFF 2 seconds later, and the A/C (if equipped) indicator comes ON. Then the self-diagnosis begins.
About 10 seconds later the diag will finish and the A/C indicator goes OFF.

If any trouble IS found, the recirculation indicator will blink the diagnostic code. If no trouble is found the recirculation indicator stays OFF.

So try that and post back.

 
Rep Power: 278

^^What exactly does that diagnonsis?

 
Rep Power: 0

The computer

 
Rep Power: 303

It checks the dial cluster, and all the valves and servos that make the heating/cooling system work. It also tests the heater valve actuator.
The heater valve is opened and closed by a servo. I doubt the valve itself is bad. The test will check that all parts of the system are functioning properly before your shop takes another "guess".
BTW, I took that straight out of the Honda service book for this car.

 
Rep Power: 0

***UPDATE***
I just spoke to a Honda Rep . They told me that mechanically the heating system is operating like its suppose to. The only problem that might cause this was an ETC sensor error the ECU kept giving out. the word he use was "electronic temperature control" he said this is what telse the ecu what temperature the engine is running on and could also be whats causing the "safemode" to happen.

 
Rep Power: 319

Actually that just went bad in my older truck, it ran extremely rich and flooded it's self out eventually.

 
Rep Power: 0

***Update***
Turns out the sensor that Honda changed also didnt fix the problem. AT this point I think The head gasket i blown since the honda
mechanic told me that every component is mechanically functioning like its suppose to. Any other ideas or suggestions? I guess Its like they say if you need it done right DO IT YOURSELF! Now its time go get my gloves on im doing it myself.