Rep Power: 279

Ok my car has 86k on the dail, today I went to work this morning, my car was fine, 7hrs later I left work(car is fine). I'm driving down the freeway 60mph (traffic), I turn the A/C on and roll the wondows up. Got off my exit and came to a stop about 2 minutes later (car still fine). Now I'm on regular road for about 10 minutes(normal street traffic) and come to a stop light and suddenly the damn thing starts idling very very rough, idle stays at 700 like always, but is vibrating very hard though. Almost sounds like a small clicking sound when it's just sitting there idling. Exhaust note sounds a little deaper than usaul. Possible timing adjustment??? I can still redline like normal. exceleration is normal nothing unusual. No mods BTW

No check engine light or maintance light on
checked:
Oil - fine
Auto trans fluid - fine
Air filter - fine
Engine mounts -fine
Exhaust - pipes look fine. Nothing inside of tail pipe
Throttlle Body - with out filter - fine. Car running w/o filter still idles hard.
Battery - the green dot is black, but still starts like normal.

 
Rep Power: 312

i would check the spark plugs to make sure one isn't fowled, i dunno if u have your throttle body heater is bypassed but if it is, that might be it as well.

 
Rep Power: 319

Like Booba said, check the plugs, look for any wierd colors.

You may want to try and have the ECU relearn the idle curve. Go here to see how to do it http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=221592

 
Rep Power: 279

I tried the relearning idel thing and nothing. I'm certain there are posts somewhere on how to check spark plugs but I dont think it that, any other ideas?

 
Rep Power: 336

dealership warranty

 
Rep Power: 453

its possible that a sensor has failed. May want to have a scanner hooked up to check the values of the sensors.

 
Rep Power: 0

u know that happened to me once in my 2004 civic....it only had 2k miles on it at the time so.....i dunno why it happened but it hasnt happened since and i got 15k miles now

 
Rep Power: 279

I took it to the dealer Saturday morning, of course they couldn't do anything because it was the weekend, they only do express oil changes and things like that. They said it will cost 89 dollars for them to diagnose my car. I have an extended warranty, but they said I have to pay for that first and if they find anything thats covered they'll pay me back. I don't trust them.

 
Rep Power: 312

when you pop the hood and look at the top of the engine there are 4 coil pack right in front of the plastic cover that says "Honda" each are held on by a 10mm nut, unplug them, remove the nut and pull them out....yea they are about 5-6 inches long, and yes, there is supposed to be a tube, at the end of the tube is the spark plug, i forget what size socket the spark plug is, but pull each out and look, no offense, but it sounds like you might not know much about cars so u might wanna take the plugs to checker and have them look at them, if u do need new ones, have checker gap them for you, if u ask them to gap them, they'll know what your talkin about. then read this backwards to learn how to put them back in......

 
Rep Power: 320

the green dot is black? doesnt that mean the battery is bad?

 
Rep Power: 424

Before you rip **** apart for no reason... do the same thing with the AC off. Something tells me its the AC compressor running full out.

 
Rep Power: 279

Thanks for everyones input. Ok now it's Tuesday morning, it's still doing it, but now when I come to a full stop the idle will actually smooth out a bit and almost feel normal, but as soon I give it gas it'll vibrate very hard untill it hits 1500-2000 rpm. It vibrates like this in Park, Nuetral, D; D3, 2. but not Reverse. So now I'm thinking could it be time for new transmission fluid? I'll check the spark plugs as soon as I get chance. It doesn't matter if the A/C is on or off. As for the black dot on battery charge indicator, my car starts like normal. I was thinking I should take it the another dealer and have change the transmission fluid and not tell them about my problem and as soon as I get my car back and it's still acting this way, I should act like they caused something that way they'll have to diagnose it with out me having to pay for it.

 
Rep Power: 312

hey boilermaker, u think it might be something with the ecu and the cooling system? I dont know much about the cooling system but i wonder if it could be something like a a temp sensor might be bad and it's telling the ecu that the engine is colder than it is so it raises the idle to warm it up? just an idea and i'm most likely wrong, but what do u think?

 
Rep Power: 319

are all the fans off, the deforst setting turns on the A/C, sometimes the only way to know the compressor is fully off is to turn the fan off.

This isn't looking good if it does not do this in reverse. You have an auto under warrenty, make them look at the car for free. That thing about paying them upfront sounds wierd, but I have never had anything with an extended warrenty, maybe try calling a different dealer.

 
Rep Power: 279

Well I've tried every conceiveable combination with the A/C and it still acts this way. I checked the transmission again by going through every gear and theres no difference. I don't think it's the temperature because the temp gauge hasn't even moved from where it normaly stays. Today I was on the freeway I noticed when I was driving about 75mph I heard a harmonic vibration sound that was fairly low pitch and had a circular motion sound, I could also feel a slight rythmic pulse in the gas pedal. I filled my car half a tank of 91 octane and still no difference. I know I should take it to the dealer but I want to figure out what the problem is so that they don't screw me over.