Odd Problem: Engine Turns Off When Breaks Applied with Check Oil and Battery Light On
Edit: It's a 96.
I had a problem with my 96 Civic DX where the yellow check engine light came on. I checked my oil and realized it was low enough that the dipstick was bare (the oil has been slow leaking for a while - 105K miles). I added about 1/8 a quart of oil and could already measure it, and then about another 2/8 to get it midway between the two measuring holes on the dipstick. After doing so, I pulled the 7.5 "backup/radio" from the fuse box to reset the yellow check engine light (I would have taken it to autozone to get a reading, but they are too far away).
Now I thought my problem was solved, but after getting on the highway and then breaking to get on an off-ramp, the red check oil and check battery lights came on, and the engine shut off. I was able to re-ignite it using the ignition, and had to do so several times to park it in a lot. Anytime the car is not getting gas, the battery light tends to flicker at low speeds, and if the breaks are applied for a couple of seconds the engine always shuts off.
I'm not sure what's causing this. My current theory is that I need to reset the ECU because pulling the 7.5 backup fuse reset it, and lost the proper settings. I'm going to try this, but I wanted to know if anyone had some advice/experience with this happening before.
Sorry for the long story, and thanks in advance for any replies.
I had a problem with my 96 Civic DX where the yellow check engine light came on. I checked my oil and realized it was low enough that the dipstick was bare (the oil has been slow leaking for a while - 105K miles). I added about 1/8 a quart of oil and could already measure it, and then about another 2/8 to get it midway between the two measuring holes on the dipstick. After doing so, I pulled the 7.5 "backup/radio" from the fuse box to reset the yellow check engine light (I would have taken it to autozone to get a reading, but they are too far away).
Now I thought my problem was solved, but after getting on the highway and then breaking to get on an off-ramp, the red check oil and check battery lights came on, and the engine shut off. I was able to re-ignite it using the ignition, and had to do so several times to park it in a lot. Anytime the car is not getting gas, the battery light tends to flicker at low speeds, and if the breaks are applied for a couple of seconds the engine always shuts off.
I'm not sure what's causing this. My current theory is that I need to reset the ECU because pulling the 7.5 backup fuse reset it, and lost the proper settings. I'm going to try this, but I wanted to know if anyone had some advice/experience with this happening before.
Sorry for the long story, and thanks in advance for any replies.
Last edited by uki; Sep 15, 2005 at 06:36 PM.
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is your check engine light still on after you pulled the fuse? I dont see how the backup/radio fuse reset the ECU though????
But anyway, you need to find out what code the engine is putting out. If these problems happened after a check engine light came on, then the engine has reconized a problem and most likely all these problems are caused by one single problem.
But anyway, you need to find out what code the engine is putting out. If these problems happened after a check engine light came on, then the engine has reconized a problem and most likely all these problems are caused by one single problem.
Last edited by streetglower; Sep 1, 2005 at 08:29 PM.
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when i had electric problems (battery cable was rubbing on the alternator pulley), my CEL would flicker like a strobe light, and the car would stall sometimes, when i hit big bumps or slowed down. maybe make sure the fuse is in solid, all connections are tight, and have your battery/alternator checked out if it's been awhile
Originally Posted by streetglower
is your check engine light still on after you pulled the fuse? I dont see how the backup/radio fuse reset the ECU though????
But anyway, you need to find out what code the engine is putting out. If these problems happened after a check engine light came on, then the engine has reconized a problem and most likely all these problems are caused by one single problem.
But anyway, you need to find out what code the engine is putting out. If these problems happened after a check engine light came on, then the engine has reconized a problem and most likely all these problems are caused by one single problem.
The yellow engine warning light has not come back since all this happened, but I guess it would be good to find out the code. So far the parts stores I've taken it to do not even offer to check the codes for a fee. Rather, they want to sell a reader unit, which seems excessive. I will see what I can do in this regard and update the post accordingly.
Thanks for the response.
Originally Posted by doubledeuce2k2
when i had electric problems (battery cable was rubbing on the alternator pulley), my CEL would flicker like a strobe light, and the car would stall sometimes, when i hit big bumps or slowed down. maybe make sure the fuse is in solid, all connections are tight, and have your battery/alternator checked out if it's been awhile
The light that flickers for me now is the red check battery light (acroynm would be CBL?). The CEL never lights up.
Let me get this straight...you can start the car but you have to give it lots of gas to keep it going. Also, your battery light stays on constantly, correct? If this is the problem, your alternator is bad. The engine is trying to run off of the batt. and is stalling at idle.
IF this is the case, you need to get it replaced NOW so you don't risk damaging your battery. My alt. went bad and made my battery start shooting acid all over the engine compartment. This ate into some of the metal under there. Thank goodness it wasn't my nicer car, just the get around car. Hopefully this helps!
IF this is the case, you need to get it replaced NOW so you don't risk damaging your battery. My alt. went bad and made my battery start shooting acid all over the engine compartment. This ate into some of the metal under there. Thank goodness it wasn't my nicer car, just the get around car. Hopefully this helps!
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Originally Posted by uki
http://www.superhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=129796 <- In this thread a post states that the fuse with reset the ECU. I actually pulled the negative from my battery as well just recently to see if that helps. The radio was reset, so I'm assuming the ECU was as well.
The yellow engine warning light has not come back since all this happened, but I guess it would be good to find out the code. So far the parts stores I've taken it to do not even offer to check the codes for a fee. Rather, they want to sell a reader unit, which seems excessive. I will see what I can do in this regard and update the post accordingly.
Thanks for the response.
The yellow engine warning light has not come back since all this happened, but I guess it would be good to find out the code. So far the parts stores I've taken it to do not even offer to check the codes for a fee. Rather, they want to sell a reader unit, which seems excessive. I will see what I can do in this regard and update the post accordingly.
Thanks for the response.
If you have any autozone around, go there and have them do an alternator output test and a battery load test. Both are free of charge.
I replaced the battery about a year ago so I doubt it's bad. As for having to give it lots of gas to keep going, that's wasn't the case. It was just when giving it no gas and applying the breaks when the engine would shut off.
Anyway, I did the reset of the ECU and the 5-10 minute warmup. This seems to have done the trick, as the car seems to worked fine today.
The only thing is it doesn't accelerate as well as normal at highway speeds. I've noticed that I added a bit too much oil (there was more of an incline on the spot where I had filled it then I realized). Could too much oil be the cause of poor top-end performance?
Anyway, I did the reset of the ECU and the 5-10 minute warmup. This seems to have done the trick, as the car seems to worked fine today.
The only thing is it doesn't accelerate as well as normal at highway speeds. I've noticed that I added a bit too much oil (there was more of an incline on the spot where I had filled it then I realized). Could too much oil be the cause of poor top-end performance?
Well after working for two weeks it's back. The engine shuts off whenever the car is in neutral and going less than 35mph.
I went to autozone and had the code read:
P0135
P0135 Primary Heated Oxygen Sensor (Primary HO2S) (Sensor 1) Heater Circuit Malfunction
Not sure what that would have to do with the electrical system. I'm guessing nothing. And I'm not sure what to do now - the dealer is the next step, but I'd really prefer to diagnose the actual issue myself...
I went to autozone and had the code read:
P0135
P0135 Primary Heated Oxygen Sensor (Primary HO2S) (Sensor 1) Heater Circuit Malfunction
Not sure what that would have to do with the electrical system. I'm guessing nothing. And I'm not sure what to do now - the dealer is the next step, but I'd really prefer to diagnose the actual issue myself...
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Originally Posted by uki
Well after working for two weeks it's back. The engine shuts off whenever the car is in neutral and going less than 35mph.
I went to autozone and had the code read:
P0135
P0135 Primary Heated Oxygen Sensor (Primary HO2S) (Sensor 1) Heater Circuit Malfunction
Not sure what that would have to do with the electrical system. I'm guessing nothing. And I'm not sure what to do now - the dealer is the next step, but I'd really prefer to diagnose the actual issue myself...
I went to autozone and had the code read:
P0135
P0135 Primary Heated Oxygen Sensor (Primary HO2S) (Sensor 1) Heater Circuit Malfunction
Not sure what that would have to do with the electrical system. I'm guessing nothing. And I'm not sure what to do now - the dealer is the next step, but I'd really prefer to diagnose the actual issue myself...
Originally Posted by streetglower
First things first, diagnois the check engine light and see if that fixes the problem. One electrical maifunction can be the cause of any other malfunctions. I can guide you through the steps to check this, but you need a DMM and some experience with electrical. This code isnt caused by a faulty 02 sensor (air/fuel sensor) it is a problem with a relay, wiring issue, or faulty PCM. More and likely this is why the car keeps shutting off.
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http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=225049
refer to this thread, he had the same code and I walked through the steps. Now if you have ANY QUESTIONS, please ask. I dont take responsibility if you *** anything up.
refer to this thread, he had the same code and I walked through the steps. Now if you have ANY QUESTIONS, please ask. I dont take responsibility if you *** anything up.
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