Over-Reved (Check Engine Light On Now)
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Over-Reved (Check Engine Light On Now) Pulling code P1298 and some missfire codes... Don't think I bent any valves because it runs to good and no clicks. 72k miles Reved hard! I know its a dumb thing to do but now I gotta fix it...
According to Autozone P1298 is IDM Falure (IDM = ?)
From what info I've gathered from here P1298 is Electrical Load Detector Circuit High Input WTF does that mean?
The car drives fine, but Misses at Idle, I'm having the car checked out on monday just trying to figure out what I can.
According to Autozone P1298 is IDM Falure (IDM = ?)
From what info I've gathered from here P1298 is Electrical Load Detector Circuit High Input WTF does that mean?
The car drives fine, but Misses at Idle, I'm having the car checked out on monday just trying to figure out what I can.
Last edited by SLC02EX; Mar 12, 2005 at 04:33 PM.
If i remember right the Electrical Load Detector Circuit is built into the fuse box. Check with a honda tech and ask what they say. I remember looking one up for a customer one time on a accord , and i believe it was in the fuse box.
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Rep Power: 0 ohh bad... 5 down to second.... for about 2 seconds.... enough to peg the tach
Car still runs.... but idles shitty
btween 80-90 mph, I was messing with a freind on the freeway went to goto 4th and ended up in second turned about 10,000 Estamate... Boy that feels stupid
. First time I've ever missed a shift
Car still runs.... but idles shitty
btween 80-90 mph, I was messing with a freind on the freeway went to goto 4th and ended up in second turned about 10,000 Estamate... Boy that feels stupid
. First time I've ever missed a shift Last edited by SLC02EX; Mar 13, 2005 at 11:16 PM.
I have done it before, but both times I dissengaged the clutch before it was to bad. I would say that if you are having problems at all you bent your valves for sure. I got the same code (the 1st time that I did it), but my car ran fine, but just to be sure I got a compression tester ($25) at autozone and checked my compression (it was fine). I would say that you don't even need to get the tester becuase as bad as you did it and the way your car is running you bent valves and should just take it to the shop. Another option would be to buy a new head and put it on yourself this would be cheaper, but would require alot of know how.
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Rep Power: 0 I took the car to the shop today, gonna pick it up tomarrow...
... No, i've been around engines with bent valves, you definatly know when that happens... Shop is suppposed to do a compression check for me, I was gonna do it but decided to let the mechanic do it...
... Shop called and said one of the Coil Packs fried, changed that and it runs fine now, hopefully hes right I'll find out tomarrow when I pick it up
... No, i've been around engines with bent valves, you definatly know when that happens... Shop is suppposed to do a compression check for me, I was gonna do it but decided to let the mechanic do it...
... Shop called and said one of the Coil Packs fried, changed that and it runs fine now, hopefully hes right I'll find out tomarrow when I pick it up
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Rep Power: 0 update: Runs fine now my ***... Made it about 20 feet out of the Shop and the engine light comes on, so I took it back... he's gonna call me tomarrow... GAWD! Let this thread be a message to everyone: DONT F* UP SHIFTING.
Ohh if it don't work this time I'm taking it to a dealer to bad thats like 50 miles away from where I live.
Ohh and Compression Check was performed, everything checked out suposidly
Ohh if it don't work this time I'm taking it to a dealer to bad thats like 50 miles away from where I live.
Ohh and Compression Check was performed, everything checked out suposidly
Last edited by SLC02EX; Mar 15, 2005 at 05:47 PM. Reason: forgot something
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Originally Posted by SLC02EX
ohh bad... 5 down to second.... for about 2 seconds.... enough to peg the tach
Car still runs.... but idles shitty
btween 80-90 mph, I was messing with a freind on the freeway went to goto 4th and ended up in second turned about 10,000 Estamate... Boy that feels stupid. First time I've ever missed a shift
Car still runs.... but idles shitty
btween 80-90 mph, I was messing with a freind on the freeway went to goto 4th and ended up in second turned about 10,000 Estamate... Boy that feels stupid
. First time I've ever missed a shift
man that was a horrible sound of my engine screaming 
... but gawd lawd! 
5th to 2nd? damn!!! how fast were you going? 
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Rep Power: 0 Im going to say you bent a valve or two. If its idleing rough and throwing codes its probably because of low vaccume and the computer is giving it too much fuel making it idle poor. Check the spec on what vaccume should be at Idle and test your car to see what you have on your car. Over revving your car should not make a electrical part go bad, thats what a voltage regulator is for. If you have no way of checking the vaccume on your car, take it to a shop that can read the MAP (manifold absolute preassure) values from the ecu, if its erratic or way off then you know its a bent valve, or it jumped time. However, I really dont think it did that, dont think it would even run well if it jumped time. I hope this helps and I hope its not a bent valve, that would suck! if its not, I have no idea what it could be
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Rep Power: 0 I've ruled out bent valve for sure (I hope)
... Another one of the Coild packs are bad is what I've been told... This time I'm going to change the other 3 packs...
The alternator was putting out a charge on my battery at the time that I did it, I know this because my stereo and Headlights where on. And when the Engine turned 2 many RPM's So would the Alternator.
the ELD would that be a voltage regulator? the code its pulling is ELD high input.
Ohh.. just to be sure I have a cheap boost guage laying around, if I hook that up to a vacum source on my car would it be acurate enought to show a vacum leak? the guage reads to 20 psi boost and whatever vacum I can't remember.
... Another one of the Coild packs are bad is what I've been told... This time I'm going to change the other 3 packs...
The alternator was putting out a charge on my battery at the time that I did it, I know this because my stereo and Headlights where on. And when the Engine turned 2 many RPM's So would the Alternator.
the ELD would that be a voltage regulator? the code its pulling is ELD high input.
Ohh.. just to be sure I have a cheap boost guage laying around, if I hook that up to a vacum source on my car would it be acurate enought to show a vacum leak? the guage reads to 20 psi boost and whatever vacum I can't remember.
Last edited by SLC02EX; Mar 16, 2005 at 05:44 PM. Reason: i suck
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Rep Power: 0 You should feel that your engine is limping when you bend any valve.
Someone I know had a similar situation like yours in the past wit his D17 also. He mis-shifted & over revved his engine while he was at Lime Rock. The idle felt slightly harsh but his check engine light didn't came on. About a week & a half later when he was driving on the highway & a sudden lost of power plus the check engine light came on out of nowhere. The next day, when we opened it up & take a look at it, turned out that he bent few valves.
Someone I know had a similar situation like yours in the past wit his D17 also. He mis-shifted & over revved his engine while he was at Lime Rock. The idle felt slightly harsh but his check engine light didn't came on. About a week & a half later when he was driving on the highway & a sudden lost of power plus the check engine light came on out of nowhere. The next day, when we opened it up & take a look at it, turned out that he bent few valves.
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Rep Power: 0 Your not looking for a vaccume leak, if a valve is bent the vaccume reading will be low and eratic (not a steady reading or a fluctuating needle on the gauge) The best thing to do if a valve is bent would be to get a low mile used head or a reman head to replace it with. Or you can pay the going rate for labor which is about 70-80 an hour for a tech to remove the head, take out all the valves and inspect each one, then replace all the bent valves and put it back togeather. Or you can do a head swap and have a secone head for parts for the next time you throw it in to second when your going highway speeds. Or just have it laying around so one day you can have someone port it for you when you start making some real hp! Again, I hope its not bent valves and just something simple that wont break the bank, good luck!
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Originally Posted by bobsagator
Don't forget to check the flux capacitor...
....Yeah I've herd of similar effects because a valves was "tweaked" not completly bent... If it blows up it blows up...
.... I'm going to replace the other 3 coil packs, if the problem continues after that I'm going to find a head, hopfully before this one destroyes itself. I'm doubting I bent a valve anymore, compression checked 4 times (2 cold, 2 warmed up) all things check out according to the guy doing the checking, and I trust him.
... the coil packs wont' be here until next week so well see what happens then
After i reset the computer once again the MIL light hasn't come back on so i'm just gonna trade the car in as soon as I can... Guess its time to start looking for a EP3 now that I can afford it...
Last edited by SLC02EX; Mar 17, 2005 at 07:19 PM. Reason: my spelling sucks ass
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Rep Power: 291 correct me if im wrong, but I thought we had rev. limiters???? How would it go to 10,000 if we have a rev limiter at 6800 or something close? Sorry if this is a dumb question.
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Rep Power: 0 OK, so I read this thread and I was wondering if anyone could help me. Yesterday, I was driving home from work (sitting in traffic, so I couldnt have been speeding) and my Check Engine light comes on. Went to AutoZone this morning and the codes are P1259 and P1298. Not sure how this happened. Anything I can check on or anybody know of where near Queens, NY is reliable and cheap to fix this?
