HELP! I cant rev past 4k
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Rep Power: 350 HELP! I cant rev past 4k
3.9k to be exact!
I dont know what happened!!!
has anyone experienced this?
I was going like 60-70 on an on ramp when all the sudden 3rd gear cut out...like im hitting the rev limiter!
I have I/H/E with highflow downpipe, no mil eliminator
anyone know what my problem could be?
I would hate it so much to have to put everything back to normal in order to take back to dealership
I dont know what happened!!!
has anyone experienced this?
I was going like 60-70 on an on ramp when all the sudden 3rd gear cut out...like im hitting the rev limiter!
I have I/H/E with highflow downpipe, no mil eliminator
anyone know what my problem could be?
I would hate it so much to have to put everything back to normal in order to take back to dealership
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Rep Power: 539 never. but as suggested....you might want to get a code reader hooked up to that biatch to see if there's a problem.
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Rep Power: 0 yes, dont worry about checkin the ecu theres no codes to find and on our cars theres no such thing as a rev limiter because thats the ecu
the problem with your car is the timing belt tensioner is weak and your car has jumped time its probably retard by 3 or 4 teeth go get your timing belt tensioner changed and new timing belt and your done
this has only happend to me 2wice on 2 out of 3 motors hope you got 200 bux saved up for shop time
the problem with your car is the timing belt tensioner is weak and your car has jumped time its probably retard by 3 or 4 teeth go get your timing belt tensioner changed and new timing belt and your done
this has only happend to me 2wice on 2 out of 3 motors hope you got 200 bux saved up for shop time
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Rep Power: 350 Originally posted by cdmx
omg!
but everything seems fine now
think it was just limp mode? and anyone want to explain that one
omg!
but everything seems fine now
think it was just limp mode? and anyone want to explain that one
nm, i searched like a pro and not a n00b
"Fail Code" conditions or "Limp Mode" happens when the vehicle computer recognizes a problem in it's logic. When an expected signal value from a sensor is sent to the computer and is not within the computer's programmed specifications, "secondary" programs are activated by the computer to strive to protect the transmission from damage the improper sensor signal might cause to occur.
In other words, the computer is always expecting certain signal values from certain sensors i.e. the temperature sensor, the speed sensor, the throttle position sensor, etc. As long as these signals are what it would normally expect for the conditions and is normal based on all the other signals it is receiving from other sensors, it acts normally and accordingly.
If the computer, all of a sudden, receives some crazy signal from one of the sensors that is out of the normal range expected from this sensor, it will go to "emergency" or "secondary" measures........cont
In other words, the computer is always expecting certain signal values from certain sensors i.e. the temperature sensor, the speed sensor, the throttle position sensor, etc. As long as these signals are what it would normally expect for the conditions and is normal based on all the other signals it is receiving from other sensors, it acts normally and accordingly.
If the computer, all of a sudden, receives some crazy signal from one of the sensors that is out of the normal range expected from this sensor, it will go to "emergency" or "secondary" measures........cont
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Rep Power: 0 My car was losing power, then it would come back again and be fine for weeks. Engine light never came on, so no code to read until finally one day it almost died completely. The car was miss firing like crazy, bucking and popping. Then the engine light came on so I took it to the dealer.
Long story short, there was a wire going to the MAP sensor (yellow) that somehow got a nick in it, corroded and broke. The engine light never came on until the wire was almost separated completely. Cost me $40 bucks for the diagnostic and wire repair, but its all fixed and running really good.
My advise is to look for any bad connections, loose wires or vacuum hoses. It could be that simple!
Long story short, there was a wire going to the MAP sensor (yellow) that somehow got a nick in it, corroded and broke. The engine light never came on until the wire was almost separated completely. Cost me $40 bucks for the diagnostic and wire repair, but its all fixed and running really good.
My advise is to look for any bad connections, loose wires or vacuum hoses. It could be that simple!
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Rep Power: 263 check ur oil. it sounds stupid but the gsr motors do that if u run too low on oil to protect it. just a shot in the dark.
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