Rep Power: 0

My son's 2010 Civic DX-VP has a major issue with overheating during a long drive or anytime it is going faster than about 60. Runs about 2/3 to 3/4 of gauge normally, but tops out when under any load. Must implement mass heater-blow to cool down.

• Originally, we discovered a seam leak on the radiator and replaced it and both hoses.
• The fan blade had also disintegrated and we replaced the unit. Still overheated.
• Replaced the thermostat and the lower ECT.
• Replaced the ECM and had it reprogrammed/updated by Honda dealer.

• All relays are good
• Fans run appropriately
• No water in oil
• No condensation under filler cap
• Coolant pressure test -extremely slow leak down-about one drop/2 or 3 minutes, external to engine
• Runs well
• Compression check

#1 188

#2 184

#3 180

#4 190

Any more ideas?

 
Rep Power: 228

First thought would be air in the cooling system, reblead it including the heator core.

-open radiator cap
-place a funnel in the radiator, make sure to fill the funnel a few inches above the radiator level
-run the car until it reaches operating temperature
-turn your interior heator to max/with fans off
-run until no bubbles are seen.

-second thought, waterpump

-third, would be, head was warped, fue yo overheating, or, a blown head gasket.

Especially since both inner cylinders show less compression than outers.

 
Rep Power: 0

I did the bleeding procedure twice already. Very slight improvement. A new water pump is on its way and hopefully I won't strip or break the dreaded 8mm allen head bolt. If that doesn't cure it, the head will be next.

 
Rep Power: 0

Replaced water pump. Old one was fine. Next stop, head gasket.

 
Rep Power: 0

Not sure if the 2010 Civics had this issue or not, but I have an 08 and there was an engine recall that just recently expired (before I bought the car from my mom) because the engine block develops hairline cracks in any of 4 seperate locations and slowly (at first) leak all the coolant out, causing the engine to overheat. The locations on the block that would develop cracks were hidden from view for the most part, making the problem difficult to diagnose. Look at the lower portion of the block, between the alternator and the exhaust manifold, and if you see either green coolant stain, or dried white residue, then your engine block is cracked.

 
Rep Power: 0

Thanks. Yeah, my car is not in that group, unfortunately. Would be nice to get a new engine for free.

 
Rep Power: 0

So, I replaced the head gasket and got everything all buttoned up again. Engine started right up. Topped off fluids. Turned off engine. Checked tire pressures.

The "D" for Drive was blinking and the service engine light was on. Not knowing what the blinking D was all about, I read the codes and cleared them. I expected codes, due to all the disconnecting and reconnecting, so I didn't really pay much attention to them. One was the camshaft position sensor, and the other may have been the some, or maybe crankshaft sensor. Anyway, now the engine won't start at all. It cranks for a while and then one little putt and then cranks some more. D still blinks.
Any ideas??

 
Rep Power: 0

Well, that little interruption has been solved. Found the camshaft position sensor disconnected. Plugged it in and the blinking went away, engine purrs, and car still runs hot. Not a warped head, because I just installed a fresh resurfaced pressure tested head.
Just put in a 170 thermostat to see if it makes any difference. Maybe the old one went bad?

 
Rep Power: 0

Sounds like You covered all the basis it sounds like another leaking head gasket job to me. have you checked for bubling in the coolant resevoir? any white steam coming out of exhaust? can You smell any signs of coolant out the exhaust? have you pulled the spark plugs to check for any signs of coolant on the ends? if the answer is Yes, then last resort would be to dump a bottle of K-SEAL many Professional technitions swear it works...!! as demonstrated

 
Rep Power: 222

do not dump that garbage in, it will ruin the engine and any other part that coolant runs through.

 
Rep Power: 0

K-SEAL is the safest product to use on a cooling system it wont plug heater core up like other rad stop leaks do.! im telling You perfectly safe to use dude. i would use it on my vehicles if i had an issue as long as its not a huge leak this will work. check out the reviews on it.
https://www.ridemission.com/k-seal-review/


https://www.kseal.com/ca/using-k-sea...fically-tested

 
Rep Power: 0

im a newbie here so pls bare with me. i have a 2014 si with a small overheating problem i bought this car already nowing it ran a little hot temp gauge reads just over half way never hits red h zone though i have instaled corect oe thermastat changed radiater and cap rad coolant all oe dealer parts to no avail fans will come on only starts getting hot at lights or long periods of idiling im thinking head gasket i never heard of kseal before? but im willing to try it at this point.

 
Rep Power: 222

i trust those reviews about as far as i could throw my car, that is not the proper way to fix a vehicle

 
Rep Power: 222

dont dump crap into your car hoping it will magically fix your problems, if you cant figure out why its overheating take it to someone that can

 
Rep Power: 0

Colin You need to have a little more faith in products Im not saying its the miracle cure for overheating but if someone has changed out everything imaginable on the cooling system like erndog has. than this is a safe option aside from doing a expensive $$ head gasket job listen K-SEAL is similer or possibly the same

additive that Subaru uses as an additive to mix in there cooling system both are made in UK because early subaru's were prone to head gasket failures dealer was using this as a preventable measure against it. If you read the FAQS page it clearly mentions that its safe to use & wont plug anything up. and it (passed ASTM D3147 Test standard test method for stop leak products.) https://www.kseal.com/ca/faqs

 
Rep Power: 0

However, I did change the head gasket...and the head.

 
Rep Power: 222

And you need to stop believing everything you read on the internet. You haven't even used the product.

 
Rep Power: 222

How have you been bleeding the air out of the coolant? Do you have the nose of the car raised? Spill free funnels also help create a taller head of water creating more pressure. They're cheap on Amazon.

Do you have a scan tool so you can see the actual temperature reading? Not sure on the newer cars but the older Honda's had one temp sensor for the gauge and another for the computer. Then you can check and see if the sensor is reading correctly

 
Rep Power: 0

Raised on ramps, using funnel, waiting for bubbles to stop, waiting for thermostat to open, heater in service to flow hoses and exchanger, Check again after cooled down and top off, check again. New sensors (both), Innova scan tool was verifying temps the last time I checked.

 
Rep Power: 222

OEM sensors or aftermarket?

 
Rep Power: 0

Aftermarket.

 
Rep Power: 222

Try OEM sensors, Honda's don't like aftermarket electronics