One clay bar later..... my dc5 56k nope
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Originally Posted by manthatguysfast
so you should clay the entire car, then wax the entire thing?
- or -
clay a section (says 3x3 on the link provided in this thread) then wax that section?
also, how much pressure do you use on the clay bar?
- or -
clay a section (says 3x3 on the link provided in this thread) then wax that section?
also, how much pressure do you use on the clay bar?
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Originally Posted by jerseydetailer
think about it if you stop after you do each 3x3 section to wasx it would take you alot longer..you would have to put down the clay, pick up the applicator pad and wax .....instead clay the whole car, then wax...i use a porter cable random orbital..no lie it takes me about 8 minutes to clay an entire car and wax it....as for pressure dont use alot just enough so the clay is flat with the paint....
well I did not mean take my info literal but I did half of my car with the clay bar and took a break then did the other half then waxed it. As for pressure it should glide across yoru car if it sticks that spot needs to be gone over a few times until smooth
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Originally Posted by eye_see_you
well I did not mean take my info literal but I did half of my car with the clay bar and took a break then did the other half then waxed it. As for pressure it should glide across yoru car if it sticks that spot needs to be gone over a few times until smooth
most likely if it sticks you need more spray....the sound is what tells you when you done..either that or put your hand in a plastic bag and rub you paint...that also helps
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Rep Power: 252 Don't forget to use a polish/glaze before waxing. That way you can maintain oils in the paint so that it won't dry or fade in the future. Wash, dry, clay, polish, wax. With any synthetic wax like NXT you need to allow as much as 24 hours between coats. You will also need to apply 2 thin coats or it will look streaky.
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Originally Posted by jerseydetailer
most likely if it sticks you need more spray....the sound is what tells you when you done..either that or put your hand in a plastic bag and rub you paint...that also helps
Originally Posted by soonercivic
Don't forget to use a polish/glaze before waxing. That way you can maintain oils in the paint so that it won't dry or fade in the future. Wash, dry, clay, polish, wax. With any synthetic wax like NXT you need to allow as much as 24 hours between coats. You will also need to apply 2 thin coats or it will look streaky.
as for the NXT wax its only one thin coat since I used the clay bar on the car and so far its looking 10x better than before
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Originally Posted by soonercivic
Apply a second coat and you what you have now will look like crap. It also ensures even coverage. Still looks great though.
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Originally Posted by MVHonda
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Rep Power: 0 oh, hey buddy. I assume your near Killeen. I live 15 minutes from this place and in looking at their process, it seems very interesting. That Cadillac looks awesome.
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Originally Posted by MVHonda
yeah 5 seconds looking at their page and i wouldnt go there they claim to heat the paint up so it can reflow that is not what your doing...and then using a wool pad that IS WRONG.... most cars dont need a wool pad most cars would benefit from a foam pad and agressive cleaner..im warning you know..look for some other place....you know how i know this place is full of it... foam pads actually create more heat that wool pads but cut less the only way to remove swirls is to remove paint...the only paint that can be heated up to flow is old school laquer paints when they claim to **heat up**paints..do they understand that most cars have a clear coat on top of a base coat so in essence they are only reflowing the clear if what they said is even true if you want a real detailer look up ulimate reflections in san antonio..the owner is anthony orosco...google his name to see what a pro really does i think his website is ultimatereflection.net but i think he is getting his website domain changed...look him up he's not hard to find..tell him a fellow autopian told you bout him
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Rep Power: 0 Not that I don't believe you and just for my benefit... what is the long term effect of having them do it? In regards to heating the paint. Also, thanks for all the info, I will definately look into this.
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Originally Posted by MVHonda
Not that I don't believe you and just for my benefit... what is the long term effect of having them do it? In regards to heating the paint. Also, thanks for all the info, I will definately look into this.
no im just saying if you want to go to a detailer go to one that doesnt make outrageous claims heating up paint is bad, but the reason why rotaries are effective is because the heat that they produce break down the abrasives in the compounds (or polishes or whatever you want to call them)..breaking down the abrasives is necessary. to prevent cc (clearcoat failure) you want to use the least amount of heat, the least amount of abrasive products to remove the swirls...if i were you *i would NOT*get it pro detailed unless you were gonna sell it or take it to a show but hey thats just me
#47
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Rep Power: 0 very nice DC5 and EP3!!
its nice to see a clean car too, its been snowing/melting a lot lately where I am, and impossible to keep the car clean for more than 5 minutes
its nice to see a clean car too, its been snowing/melting a lot lately where I am, and impossible to keep the car clean for more than 5 minutes
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Originally Posted by ringflyer
very nice DC5 and EP3!!
its nice to see a clean car too, its been snowing/melting a lot lately where I am, and impossible to keep the car clean for more than 5 minutes
its nice to see a clean car too, its been snowing/melting a lot lately where I am, and impossible to keep the car clean for more than 5 minutes
thanks, I'm planning to go over it once more in a few areas that feel rough and give it another good wax because it was in pretty rough shape
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