Kyle23

I did a search for this already so dont flame me 4 asking...

I have a couple scratches on my front and back bumper corners and was wondering if this would work? In the commercial, it looked like they put some product on the scratch and then put clear sandwhich wrap over the product/scratch and then just peeled it off. Is this really how it works? FYI I scrapped it on a retaining wall so I have large scuff marks w/ some black marks and the bumber is ruff in the places where the scrapes are.

Thanx 4 the input

Blue_Honda_Civ

yeah the commercial looked like it was some type of miricle cream i tried to find it at the hardware store but i couldnt find any

soonercivic

If it works, that wont be how. The only way to remove scratches is to remove layers of clearcoat until you have leveled the surface. I havent used it or heard of it, but a good reliable product is Meguiars ScratchX. Works great. They will all require some elbow grease and a few applications though.

masarak

iTrader: (1)

This stuff?



They sell this at Wal-Mart and it workd just fine for small scratches in the finish. If you have a deep scratch, you'll probably need to use touch-up paint and clearcoat paint. If you have deep scratches in the plastic on the bumper, you may have to do more than just use touch-up paint (may need to sand the plastic down, etc.). Do you have a photo of the damage?

2K1Civic17"Gabe

iTrader: (9)

Most black scuffs come out with a claybar as well. Depending on if it scratched the paint or not.

jmk

hey guys

i have a long, light scratch on the my hood. its faint, but since its my new car, VERY noticable.

i have no idea where it came from... but i really want to get rid of it.

my paint job is black. will that nu finish wal mart stuff work? how does it work? any pics of before and after?

thanks

soonercivic

I personally dont trust the nufinish products. I have heard to many bad things about them. If its faint, pick up some Meguiars ScratchX and a foam applicator pad along with some microfiber towels. That should take it out, anything done by hand will require some elbow grease and patience along with a few applications. What most people do is expect too much too easily. By removing the scratch you actually remove microscopic layers of clearcoat to level it out. You will need to work a it for about 2 minutes before removing and reapplying. Here are some before and after pics. These are the only ones i could find right now, its late. As you can see in the after pics, the swirls and holograms have been removed on the front of the hood. You can expect similar results on your scratch.




If you can catch your finger nail on the scratch, then its too deep to be removed and has gone through the clear coat.

jmk

Thanks for the info. My fingernail doesn't catch when I run it across.

I was going to try Meguiar's ScratchX but I decided to try Meguiar's Deep Crystal Paint Cleaner, Polish and Liquid Wax on it first.

Before:


After:

soonercivic

Looks good, glad it came out nicely for ya.

jmk

Thanks! I'll check it out in the sunlight tomorrow. I still want to get rid of the scratch altogether. Think I'm going to go pick up some ScratchX and some MF towels tomorrow.

Any last tips? I've already checked out Meguiar's DIY page. If you take a look there, the paint on the Viper looks like it has chips. Did this happen to you? Will it happen on a brand new paint job?

rckdrmr

iTrader: (2)

everyone should invest in a pc!

jmk

rckdrmr

iTrader: (2)

pc stands for "porter cable". it's a dual action polisher that mimicks your hand motion (like if you were waxing) but does it with far better results and doesn't get tired like your hands will. it'll be the best $100 you'll ever spend (TRUST ME)! here are a couple of great threads to check out! http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/sho...hlight=ferrari <---- see page 2 for the amazing results! and another thread ----> http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/sho...&threadid=7034

soonercivic

I agree with rckdrmr 100%. That is the best thing you will ever buy to take car of this car and many to come in the future. Hand application of products will never offer the same results as machine application.

JMK: what do you mean chips?

jmk

All I can say is... WOW! The results on that thing were amazing!

What about the Coleman Orbital Waxer? Does that deliver similar results?

When I said 'chips', I meant dents. If you look at the picture of the Viper closely, the paint job looks similar to a bowling ball thats been thrown down the lane one too many times. Haha... Don't know how else to explain it.

soonercivic

An orbital waxer will never offer the same results you get with a PC. With an orbital you are very limited in the types of products you can use, and typically you cause more swirls and holograms than you fix. The PC is as close to the motion of your hand as you can get with a machine, and best of all, it moves about 100 times as fast. With the dents, ive seen that car, the guys viper is just beat up. That wont be cause by the ScratchX or anything like that.

soonercivic

Here ya go, i found these. These are some defects i removed with my PC on my car.
before (the whole car looked like this, long frustrating story)


after (now the whole car looks like this)

[IMG]
http://www.meguiarsonline.com/gallery/data/500/3092car_by_polisher_013-med.jpg[/IMG]

jmk

Damn! I don't have any swirls in my paint yet because I just bought it about a month ago.

But I will be sure to get one of those... Thats really amazing! I tried looking on the Meguiars site for a pricing but couldn't find one. Also, which products do you guys use?

I bought the Deep Crystal 3 Stage but since my paint is so new, you can't really tell the difference.

Jase

soonercivic

The Meguiars PC is expensive and no different (other than the counterweight and meguiars logo) from a PC 7336SP. You can pick one up at Lowes for 99-109 bucks,( http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...page=none&bc=c )thats what i did. The DC system is just a chemical cleaner followed by and polish and carnuba wax. If you are looking for a wet shine, pick up some Meguairs #81 Hand Polish and some NXT Tech Wax. Thats what i use. Also, when you buy a PC, get some #80, its slightly abrasive but mainly polishes. Heres some steps for you

After washing and drying
1. Clay bar the entire car, this will remove any contaminates so you can work with a clean surface.
2. If you have a PC, use #80 on a Meguars 8006 polishing pad on setting 5.
3. Apply polish, #81 or #7 will work but #81 is easier to work with. Use setting 3 along with another different 8006 polishing pad
4. Apply wax using a 9006 buffing pad. If you go with the NXT use 2 thins coats for uniform coverage and protection. If you only do one, it will end up looking streaky. Let it dry for 15-20 minutes or until its completely dry. Use another 9006 pad with a ultimate bonnet microfiber bonnet over it to remove an excess wax. The use microfiber towels to remove the rest by hand.

Thats what i did, but since i had to remove some defects, i added a few more abrasive steps. This is a proven method that will work well for anyone. If you dont have a PC, this can all be done by hand. That is provided you dont mine having a noodle for an arm the next day.

sweeteli99

iTrader: (2)

where to buy one of these? my paint looks horrible, and am trying to get it to look good again.

jmk

Hey soonercivic,

I pulled my car into tha sun today to check out my paint job (which should only be 1 month old). It seems like i got swirls like your picture that you posted.

I'm not sure if I'm being too OC. Sometimes, its hard to tell with the Nighthawk Black paint job. I'll try to get some pictures but my camera doesn't seem too great with my black paint job.

jmk

soonercivic

Get one at lowes. Its a porter cable 7336sp, http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...page=none&bc=c

soonercivic

Typically when dealers clean your car when you buy it, they put a ton of swirls. When i bought mine i told them not to touch the outside and that ill wash it. You got AIM or MSN Messenger? my s/n on AIM is isthatcorn. Either that or PM me. Ill be home later and we can go over some steps and i can put together a product package that should do the job for ya. You can spend 200 bucks, including the polisher, and have a good set of detailing supplies that will last you awhile.

ojay

iTrader: (4)

you can get a PC at any home depot as well.

soonercivic

Most hardware stores will have them. Usually, around here at least, lowes has the best prices.

rckdrmr

iTrader: (2)

here's what you do... go to lowes and buy the porter cable 7336 for around $100, and use/fill this this coupon for an additional 10% off! then... go buy/order a backing plate and some buffing pads (get at least three) and you'll be good to go! here's one good combo i would suggest...

wash
clay
#80 meguiars speed glaze
#83 meguiars dual action cleaner/polish *only if #80 doesn't get rid of the swirls/defects*
meguiars nxt tech wax

here's a link that will help once you've bought the aboved mention items ---> http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/sho...?threadid=7034

p.s. here's the link to the coupon ----> https://www.lowesmoving.com/lowesmov...gistration.jsp

jmk

Thanks

I was planning on trying to ScratchX my car this weekend, maybe next, by hand. I'm going to go pick up a clay bar with some Quik Detailer... Sound OK?

soonercivic

You should use #83 before #80. That way you step down in abrasiveness but up in polishing.

rckdrmr

iTrader: (2)

not true. you want to use the least aggressive first (#80) and then if that doesn't work, use (#83) next according to megs. quote from mike phillips.... " You would want to first do a Test Spot using M80 Speed Glaze and then check your results. If M80 Speed Glazes wasn't aggressive enough then you would try something more aggressive and this would be Meguiar's M83 Dual Action Cleaner Polish".

soonercivic

that is true, i have read the same thing. but like he said, he is referring to a test spot. You would not do an entire car with #80 first and then #83. You definetly need to test your method on a small spot first to formulate a plan of attack.