DIY: Full Auto Detail
#31
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Rep Power: 0 Good info...However I have a few issues with what you posted.
1. I don't think it's a good idea to recommend a direct-drive rotary buffer without going into more detail. Why? It's a very effective tool, but it can also be very dangerous for a person without experience. I think it needs to be emphasized just how easily you can burn right through your paint (not to mention, ruin your trim) with a rotary. Also, no mention about how thin clear-coat tends to be on the edges of panels... No mention of the different kinds of pads to be used.... no mention on what kinds of compounds...etc..etc.. And how about the most important thing about using a Rotary....never use speeds in excess of 1500 RPM?? Basically, what I'm trying to say is that no one should use a rotary on their car without first learning all they can and also practicing on a junky panel from an auto-yard first.
2. You say that the entire procedure you listed should be done twice a year? Hmmm, well how long is your clear-coat going to last then? As I'm sure you know, the majority of the UV protection in clear coats is in the top .3MM layer. After about 3-4 sessions with a rotary, that part of your clear will be gone and you're basically accelerating the process of clear-coat failure on your car. I agree with CivicDude. A rotary should only be used on paints that need major-swirl removal....not on cars that are new or just 1 year old.
I personally, would use a good quality random-orbital machine for regular polishing and waxing and break out the rotary only with cars that need serious help. Rotary buffers are not meant to apply wax....they were meant to correct serious paint problems.
Also, you wrote, "Do not apply pressure to the buffer unless you know what you are doing"... I would revise that to "Never ever apply pressure to the rotary at all....if you know what you're doing!! Absolutely none!"
Just my two cents...
1. I don't think it's a good idea to recommend a direct-drive rotary buffer without going into more detail. Why? It's a very effective tool, but it can also be very dangerous for a person without experience. I think it needs to be emphasized just how easily you can burn right through your paint (not to mention, ruin your trim) with a rotary. Also, no mention about how thin clear-coat tends to be on the edges of panels... No mention of the different kinds of pads to be used.... no mention on what kinds of compounds...etc..etc.. And how about the most important thing about using a Rotary....never use speeds in excess of 1500 RPM?? Basically, what I'm trying to say is that no one should use a rotary on their car without first learning all they can and also practicing on a junky panel from an auto-yard first.
2. You say that the entire procedure you listed should be done twice a year? Hmmm, well how long is your clear-coat going to last then? As I'm sure you know, the majority of the UV protection in clear coats is in the top .3MM layer. After about 3-4 sessions with a rotary, that part of your clear will be gone and you're basically accelerating the process of clear-coat failure on your car. I agree with CivicDude. A rotary should only be used on paints that need major-swirl removal....not on cars that are new or just 1 year old.
I personally, would use a good quality random-orbital machine for regular polishing and waxing and break out the rotary only with cars that need serious help. Rotary buffers are not meant to apply wax....they were meant to correct serious paint problems.
Also, you wrote, "Do not apply pressure to the buffer unless you know what you are doing"... I would revise that to "Never ever apply pressure to the rotary at all....if you know what you're doing!! Absolutely none!"
Just my two cents...
#32
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Rep Power: 371 Intermezzo is right....NEVER APPLY PRESSURE....This is how you create swirls and can also burn the paint.
#33
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Rep Power: 0 I've seen many high-end cars with holographic-looking buffer swirls, obviously detailed with a rotary by someone that didn't know what they were doing. Don't let that happen to your car.
For a good thread on using rotary buffers, click the link below:
Rotary Buffers
For a good thread on using rotary buffers, click the link below:
Rotary Buffers
#36
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Rep Power: 371 Originally posted by Panic
Dress the trim before you polish, wax or glaze. If you do that it will be very easy to wipe any excess wax off you got on the trim.
Dress the trim before you polish, wax or glaze. If you do that it will be very easy to wipe any excess wax off you got on the trim.
#37
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Rep Power: 0 Yeah that's a lot of money they charge to do your car, I'd rather try to do atleast something like the guy said that posted this myself. You get better at it the more times you do it I'm sure, like civicdude could probably do it really fast cause he's done it a bunch of times. I think it's worth it to try it yourself...
#38
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Rep Power: 371 Yes you should try it yourself, especially if you dont have the cash to lay out....but if you dont or your too lazy, and you are on Long Island in NY.....I will do it for you....For a fee of course lol
#41
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Rep Power: 371 Engine should of run for 5 minutes....So if the engine is warm when you clean it the dirt comes off easier.
#43
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Rep Power: 371 It shouldnt be running when you spray it with chemical because the chemical will go flying all over the car, you and possibly land in your eyes and you do not want that.
You spray the car off...and then when you goto hose it off you start it up before.
You spray the car off...and then when you goto hose it off you start it up before.
#45
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Rep Power: 0 I have an 03 civic and when I had my body kit put on, the bodyshop painted the sideskirts while installed on the car and got clearcoat overspray all over. They buffed it off, but now my whole car is swirls...what can I do? My car is nightwawk pearl.
#46
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Rep Power: 371 You can bring it back to the body shop and tell them to remove all the swirls that they caused on your paint. The need to use swirl remover or glaze, a high speed polishing machine and a foam pad.
#47
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Rep Power: 0 ok, newb like question I'm sure. When cleaning and dressing engine, when you hose it off, what about the air intake? won't it get water in it? I just got a fipkII and, well, the rest of the engine looks nasty
#49
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Rep Power: 0 Cover your air intake with a plastic bag.
Here's some other tips:
http://bimmer.roadfly.org/bmw/forums...3198579&page=8
I'm not sure about the "strong stream of water" in step 5. I'd do that only if necessary.
I usually use a gentle stream. That way I won't force any water into the electrical connectors/components.
Here's some other tips:
http://bimmer.roadfly.org/bmw/forums...3198579&page=8
I'm not sure about the "strong stream of water" in step 5. I'd do that only if necessary.
I usually use a gentle stream. That way I won't force any water into the electrical connectors/components.
#51
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Rep Power: 0 i am a professional detailer we use something called diamond shine for waxing,,,i use it as the last step it is wonderful please soncatc your local chemical supply company
#53
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Rep Power: 275 Just for some late information. After reading this and the posts on how/when to dress and avoid the trim in the buffing/waxing process I have something to add. I find it easier to use 3M's painters tape (the blue stuff!). Just tape off all of your trim peices that may get in the way before you get started polishing or waxing and it will enable to you wax closer and keep your trim clean and free of the products you are using on the paint. Some may see it as a pain in the butt to tape off the trim peices, but at the same time that 15 minutes you spend there may just save you the 15 minutes you use up going slow trying to avoid waxing the trim peices. Just my .02 FYI!
#54
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Rep Power: 0 I hand wash and wax my 2004 civic lx coupe every saturday whether it needs it or not. I enjoy it, and I always have a sharp looking car. I used Mc Guiars NXT polish the first four times or so, the rest of the time i have been using Mcguiars Gold paste wax. This past Saturday I waxed it twice, is that too much? my car looks like glass, and i don't use a power buffer.
#55
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Rep Power: 0 Clay bar.
I spend 4-6 hours claybaring and waxing.
take off all the soot and dirt particles soap dosent remove. I get a sweet glow after a waxjob. Megiuars 3-step.
And if your running rich and have exhaust soot meguires paint cleaner <step one of the three> takes it off like a champ.
I spend 4-6 hours claybaring and waxing.
take off all the soot and dirt particles soap dosent remove. I get a sweet glow after a waxjob. Megiuars 3-step.
And if your running rich and have exhaust soot meguires paint cleaner <step one of the three> takes it off like a champ.
#56
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Rep Power: 0 and if you have a powdercoatedvalve cover I do not recommend using purple power <degreaser> or anything with alkylines unless you spray it off immediately
#57
many think Zaino is best
On the Acura TL forum, at least: http://tl.acurazine.com/
Example w/ pictures: http://tl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=114825
It's a wax-like product, that's fairly expensive, but fairly simple to apply (it polishes off easily by hand w/ no need for buffers which might bring in swirls). It also seems to last longer than other waxes. On my black TL the results have been very impressive, and I was pleased with how the #5 polish took swirls out of my one-year old "new" white Civic Si as well. Check the TL forum above for details, or go to the zainostore.com site. (Note that there are some skeptics on acurazine who like Meguirs just as well, too. I'm not selling the stuff!)
Example w/ pictures: http://tl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=114825
It's a wax-like product, that's fairly expensive, but fairly simple to apply (it polishes off easily by hand w/ no need for buffers which might bring in swirls). It also seems to last longer than other waxes. On my black TL the results have been very impressive, and I was pleased with how the #5 polish took swirls out of my one-year old "new" white Civic Si as well. Check the TL forum above for details, or go to the zainostore.com site. (Note that there are some skeptics on acurazine who like Meguirs just as well, too. I'm not selling the stuff!)