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hey RiceBoy, are you still around for questions?

 
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@antrmo I'm pretty sure I live on this site

edit: tagged you so you get a notification. lol

 
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glad you are still around, was wondering your thoughts on upgrading my clutch now that I have turbo. bc I bought the trans used I dont know how many miles on it.

is stock clutch good enough for about 250rhp?
thinking I would need at most a stage 1?
thanks for the help.

 
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use torque ratings to determine if you need a clutch, not horsepower. However, if you're pushing 250whp, you're likely to be far exceeding the OEM clutch's torque capacity.

Can't remember where I read it, nor can I find the spec anymore, but I believe the OEM clutch is good to like 140-150 ft-lbs

Exedy stage 1 is rated for like.. 227ft-lbs at the flywheel (182 at the wheels), stage 2 is rated at 266 (flywheel) and 213 (wheels). You can run for a little bit on an OEM clutch with numbers like that, but the higher torque you go, the more it'll start to slip. Find out what torque your car is making, then decide where to go from there. I ran an exedy stage 1 clutch with an ACT streetlite flywheel, but then again, there was a problem with the wastegate actuator and I was only making like 160whp. Toruqe, couldn't tell you, bc the shop's dyno had a weird calibration and said I was rocking 500ft-lbs torque



edit: I'ma give your question its own thread. Sure, it's semi-related, but it'll be easier for people to search for this same answer if it was by itself

 
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just a forewarning, I should add.

increase in stage of a clutch, the more force the clutch kit's pressure plate will require. That said, expect a much stiffer clutch pedal, even with a stage 1. First time I experienced my stage 1, I thought something was broken because it was so hard to depress the pedal. I was in the mindset of "don't force it, you might break something". I was much younger and lacking knowledge back then. Read it was normal and got used to it. Then, when I switched back to the OEM clutch, I realized how much stiffer the stage 1 clutch was because it felt like there was zero pressure. I didn't think the clutch was going to disengage with the push of the pedal because it was so soft.

Also, the higher you go up in stage, the harsher the engagement may be. Not as bad if you go with a full clutch disc, but if you go with a 6 or 4 puck clutch, engagement will be much more rough.

 
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From the other thread you posted up on..

Assuming you buy a clutch kit, yeah, it comes with the clutch disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing, input shaft bearing, and clutch alignment tool. Some ACT kits come with the lightweight flywheel, too.

Exedy stage 1 would be a good bet. Realized the numbers I posted on this thread and the numbers I posted on your thread aren't quite the same but close enough. Flywheel wouldn't be a bad idea. Less rotating mass, faster revs, less parasitic loss at the tranny. Clutch engagement does become a little more difficult, but rather easy to adapt to. Kinda hard to explain without being able to feel it though. You'll notice RPMs rise and fall faster. Lighter the flywheel, the faster RPMs rise and fall, the more difficult it gets to engage the clutch. OEM flywheel is in the ballpark of 17lbs, to give you a frame of reference.

Clutches:

• Exedy Stage 1 (p/n 08801A) - $267.60 on Amazon
  Exedy Stage 1 (p/n 08801A) - $267.60 on Amazon
• 08902A) - $406.04 on Amazon" target="_blank">Exedy Stage 2 (p/n 08902A) - $406.04 on Amazon
  08902A) - $406.04 on Amazon">08902A) - $406.04 on Amazon" /> 08902A) - $406.04 on Amazon">Exedy Stage 2 (p/n 08902A) - $406.04 on Amazon
  • Just gonna explain about this one real quick. It'll be overkill. Sorry if this part seems remedial. I explain things in case someone with zero knowledge stumbles upon this post in the future. So, you see how instead of a full disk, it's kinda in a 3-bladed design? That, by design, will put a lot more pressure onto the flywheel to make it grab. Don't quote me on this, but I think it uses the same pressure plate as the Stage 1, but it applies the same pressure over smaller surface area. Pressure is pounds per square inch (P = lbf/in²), and when you decrease the surface area (in²) by about ⅓, pressure will increase three-fold. That's how it'll put up with the extra toruqe, but also will lead to harsher engagement.

Flywheels:

• ACT Streetlite (p/n 600120) is 11.9lbs - $193 on Amazon
  ACT Streetlite (p/n 600120) is 11.9lbs - $193 on Amazon
  • ​​​​​​​
    ​​​​​​​
    this is the one I used. Loved it.
• Exedy lightweight flywheel (p/n HF501) is 10.9lbs - $200 on Amazon
  Exedy lightweight flywheel (p/n HF501) is 10.9lbs - $200 on Amazon
• ACT also had an 8.4lb Prolite model for the D17 way back when, but it's not on their website anymore. Possibly discontinued.

So, there are a TON more clutches and flywheels out there, but those are the ones that were big back in the early 2000s. Clutchmasters makes quality stuff, too, but back then, it seemed out of my price range, so I never looked into them. They have their 725 series flywheels that weigh in a 9lbs each, and a bunch of clutches that start at the $415 mark and work their way up.

 
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great info, thank you.
are you saying the is to much? or the other 1 you mention?

EXEDY 08022 OEM Replacement Clutch Kit .I found this 1 but doesnt give specs.

looking to some kits, I will let you know what I find

 
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I'd go stage 1 if you're producing significantly more torque than stock. Stage 2 is overkill

 
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i found a guy who has a 8 pound fly wheel,,, is that to light?

 
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That's a matter of personal preference, really. I've never driven a civic with an 8lb flywheel, but that is pretty damn light. Lighter flywheel = faster revs rise/fall = smaller clutch "engagement window" (best term I can come up with)

When I went from the OEM 17lb to the ACT 11lb one, I found myself stalling quite a bit more often than before and had to reteach myself how the clutch engagement felt

 
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I kind of thought it sounded pretty light, going to ask him to weight it, he said he thought it was 8lbs. also have a guy sending me pics on a stage 1 exedy kit tomorrow,
apparently its still on engine but out of car, any thoughts on that? a used one.

 
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That's what I did. Used clutch and flywheel off these forums. Flywheel was never changed out after that, just resurfaced. Used clutch got installed 2006-2007 or so, swapped in an Exedy OEM clutch in.. 2012-2013 or so. As long as it wasn't abused and/or ridden like a roller coaster, you should be fine for a while