Rep Power: 0

wondering how (if even possible) to make my 2001 civic lx (with a D17a1 non vtec) a vtec... what parts do i have to buy to make it a vtec? just a head and computer? what head or computer?

ALSO what internal parts do i have to upgrade to run a 20psi turbo??
can i even run 20psi on that motor?
whats a good amount of psi to run?

Please reply... even if somebody said what you were gonna say

Come on experts HELP A FELLOW CIVIC DRIVER OUT

 
Rep Power: 0

You do realize that you will literally get nothing going from a D17A1->A2, right? Unless you're doing this for experimental purposes. The major difference between LX and EX is:

1. Gearing - EX tranny has slightly shorter gearing for acceleration but it's not that great (suspect it might be somewhat better in the higher gears)
2. Top speed - EX is slightly higher, not electronically restricted
3. Higher compression ratio on the EX

While it's very possible, the only noticeable difference is the top speed. The VTEC crossover is silent since it is SOHC VTEC-E @ 3,200 RPM (if I remember correctly). Dunno about the A1, but when running an intake, the A2 gets noticeably louder after 4,100 RPMs. The real price of going from A1->A2... is the price + decreased fuel economy.

It's been a while since I've kept up with what's available for the Civic as far as boosting goes, but still... based on compression ratio, the A1 would still be the better engine to boost?

 
Rep Power: 0

if i were u i'd simply swap the engine. the K series is a bit pricey, a b16a2 would be good for what i think u are trying to do. also 20lbs of boost is kinda high for a civic. correct me anyone if i'm wrong, but i think i remember something to the effect that if u go over 8lbs of boost on civic u need to start changing internals ex. cams, pistons and all that. hi boost means hi mods, bigger intake, headers full exhaust the works. but if i were u i'd jus drop a b16 in with a nice intake and exhaust system, a nice turbo making around 8-12 lbs of boost and call it a day. i dont kno anyone who ever boost the d17's, they're kinda lame the d15bs hav higher stock horsepower than those ( jus t a thought)
i hope this helped

 
Rep Power: 0

oh and the easiest way to make ur engine vtec would be to change the head to a vtec head with the solenoid

 
Rep Power: 0

i was told B series engines are illegal for a 7th generation civic... because there older less efficient engines.. but i swap one anyways.. i found a really nice b20z2 complete swap for $5300.. but i just want to have some more horsepower with out having to do a whole engine swap

 
Rep Power: 0

idk how hard it is to do a whole engine swap.. a couple of my friends are mechanics, and i know my way around a civic pretty well.. so i may try to do a swap myself for an experiment

 
Rep Power: 0

I hate threads like this on this site. All the tech heads have left and those that are left....well, yeah.

VTEC head gives you cam options. Best reason to switch.

As far as boost, look at all the links in my sig. Specifically the one at the bottom.

 
Rep Power: 0

what do you mean by that? you have a better website?

 
Rep Power: 231

i hate threads like this too. you are doing no research and you are asking questions that give me no confidence in your ability to do a swap. do you know what is involved? if this car is your daily driver, 'experimenting' with trying to do your own swap is going to be a very bad idea. especially if you have a good running and untampered stock engine that has zero problems.

also, if youre serious about boosting and going high with boost, you dont even want a d17a2. you want the non v-tec lx/dx a1 which you already have.

for a good basic turbo setup with stock internals, you are looking at spending $3k or more and that is only to run 5-7 psi. if you are going to get into the 15-20ish psi area, expect to be spending $10k or more for a good turbo system and having a whole **** load of other things done (this is all also considering you are very mechanically knowledged too). by that i mean not just internals, but also many of your suspension shafts, bearings, etc etc. possibly even more braking power with a 4 wheel disc conversion.

 
Rep Power: 0

i dont have a limit in money. im a penny pincher, but if i get stuck on something i can pay for somebody to do it..
not a huge turbo, but its $600
T3/T4 TURBO CHARGER:

INLET 3"
OUTLET 2"
BEARING TYPE WET FLOAT BEARINGS
OIL INLET 1/8 NPT
MAX PSI CAPACITY 27PSI
COMPRESSOR .50 AR COMPRESSOR
TURBINE .63 AR TURBINE
COMPRESSOR WHEEL .57 T COMPRESSOR WHEEL
EXDUCER :3"

INDUCER:2"

TURBINE WHEEL .63 AR TURBINE WHEEL
EXDUCER: 2.2"

INDUCER: 2.58"

FLANGE TYPE T3 FLANGE
DOWN PIPE FLANGE TYPE 5 BOLT STANDARD (.58)
MAX HP 350-375HP

INTERCOOLER:

28'' x 7'' x 2.5'' TURBO INTERCOOLER
Brand new condition never used!!
Tube & Fin Design
Light weight designed. Made of Aluminum.(Increase 10-20 HP).
All TIG Welded 6061 Aluminum.
PSi Drop under 0.2. Other Intercooler usually drop 10Psi Some are More.
Max PSi is 30 Up to 400HP
Core Size: 21"x7" with 2.5'' Inlet/Outlet
Boost Controller:


Allows Adjustable Boost PSI Settings, Light Weight Design To Be Mount Under The Hood. Hardware Is Included.
Manually Control turbo boost up to 30 PSI.
UNIVERSAL DIY PIPING KIT:

JDM Turbo Intercooler Piping Kit with Couplers
Intercooler Piping are CNC Machine Mandrel Bent (Jp Design)
Made From High Quality 6061 Aluminum Material with Black finish.
Extra Thick Piping and Increased Air Flow
Light weight design. Made from Aluminum.(Increase 10-20 HP).
All TIG Welded 6061 Aluminum.
PSi Drop under 0.2. Other Intercooler usually drop 10Psi Some are More.
Comes with 2.5" Straight Pipes, Angled Pipes and also L shaped Pipes
Comes with Red Couplers
WASTEGATE:
38mm JDM External Turbo Wastegate
Skillful engineering and the finest materials available
Featuring the common two bolt flange design used by many turbo kit manufacturers
The wastegates body and valve are investment cast from 253MA Stainless Steel (ASTM S30815)
Key design features to a superior wastegate are temperature and flow capability.
Wastegate has successfully addressed these issues by optimising valve lift and the flow path through the body
With Turbo Boost Controller you will able to Adjust Spring rate from 1-30 Psi) W/o Change Springs
BLOW OFF +ADAPTER:

JDM Type-S Blow Off Valve
Direct Bolt-On For All Turbo Application With Flange Universal Fitting Kit.
This Blow Off Valves Are Easily Adjustable To Prevent Both Premature Boost Leakage And Compressor Surge.
The Spring Stiffness Adjustment Screw And The Two Different Size Give The User The Option To Match Vehicle
With Mild Upgrades To Heavily Tuned Engines.
It Can Hold Up To 1200HP Or 25 PSI Of Boost Pressure.
Professional Install Suggested
Color: RANDOM
2.5" Adapter Pipe
Adapter Pipe Included for easy fitment.
Made out of High Quality Aluminum.
2.5" Adapter Pipe with 2.5" inlet/outlet
Universal fitment and great for all Turbo applications.
OIL FEED LINE KIT:

100% Brand New, High Quality, Never Been Used Or Installed!
The Oil Feeding Flange has Restriction build in, offers proper Oil Feeding to the turbocharger.
The Length Is 37 Inch.
OIL CATCH TANK:

100% Brand New, High Quality Polished Made Of Billet 6061 Aluminum, And TIG Welded W/ Billet Aluminum CNC machined.
Will Ensure Better Performance And Better Mileage On Your Engine. Mounts Above Your Valve Cover And Ensures Excess Dirt And Oil Does Not Get Inside Your Engine.
Dimensions: 6.25''x3.25"x3.25" , Holds up to 750ml.

 
Rep Power: 0

unTuned seems to have a pretty good idea on how this boost thing goes. If u go beyond 7/8 lbs of boost u gotta be willing to go the whole way. and like he stated , ur gonna need to upgrade almost everything... its all up 2 u tho. more than 8lbs of boost means you are at level 2 and stock components will fail

 
Rep Power: 0

ik... what i first asked was what are all the parts i have to replace with level 2 parts..
just give me a straight answer non of the ect ect crap

 
Rep Power: 0

Don't buy that crappy kit you posted. It's an Ebay kit and is junk.

Yes there is a better website where a lot of boosted 7th genrs are. We have a good F/I section with a lot FAQs and stickies that answer all of the questions you're asking.

For a high boost setup you need rods, pistons, standalone engine management and a fuel system that can feed the new requirements of the engine. We typically convert the fuel system to a return setup with an upgraded pump and an adjustable rising rate FPR.

And you don't want an A1 for high boost. The only EMS that works on a non-vtec motor is AEM. Stick with an A2 and get kpro.

 
Rep Power: 292

Congrats. You found someone else to worship you. Add them to the suck up list on the other site.

 
Rep Power: 269

How did you know it was ebay?? did all the jdm parts give it away?? cause the first jdm i saw i thought oh crap this kids on ebay tryin to destroy his motor and i just gave up on the rest of the post

and to the OP if there is the slightest possible chance in hell that you would get "stuck" on something then YOU SHOULDN'T BE DOING IT!!!!!!!!!!

 
Rep Power: 0

Huh. I never figured you for an *******. Learn something new every day.

 
Rep Power: 0

i have a fully built B18C block with a B16a head (head is stock other than springs and retainers) garrett .70a/r, 1000cc injectors, etc. im running 17PSI. but my tuning is limited due to the fact that i have Hondata S200.... in about a month im going to move up to S300.

it takes alot of cabbage to get these motors to handle over 15PSI and have it be drivable on an every day basis.

but if and when you do upgrade to whichever motor and plan on going turbo. for the love of god make sure you do it right, **** that ebay ****. spend the extra cash for the good stuff. it is completely worth it. and make sure you have some nice headstuds i just put ARP studs in mine the other day. head lift is a bastard....

 
Rep Power: 292

Only reason any of you come in is to plug the other forum.

 
Rep Power: 0

Well don't worry about it anymore. I've taken my content down and this will be my last post on CF. Adieu.

 
Rep Power: 0

I have a 02 Honda civic ex with a D17A1 in it. I had mine dyno tested and I am pushing 220hp. But I have the ECU Chipped, DC sport headers, Full Megan Racing Catback exhaust, Skunk2 stage 3 cam, AEM ColdAir Intake. And this has been dyno tested and I couldn't believe I had that much. concidering it was 128hp stock. But I am also saving up right now to a F22 vtec from a S2000.

 
Rep Power: 353

Thank you for contributing to a dead 3 year old thread

 
Rep Power: 0

There is no way to run 20psi I believe because the block is aluminum

 
Rep Power: 223

this is from 7 years ago....

 
Rep Power: 513

Actually, there have been members that ran boost that high. Highest I saw from a member here was 31psi. The current generation Honda still rocks aluminum blocks, and the Si and Type R's rock boost pressures in excess of 20psi (20.3 and 23psi, respectively). With KTuner, my 2018 is rocking 21psi, still with that aluminum block.

Yeah, I'm contributing to an old *** thread. Fight me

 
Rep Power: 223

 
Rep Power: 513

(ง’̀-‘́)ง

 
Rep Power: 123

I run 20psi with 1000cc injectors on E85 all day long...well, when the engine is together.
I do have a block guard but i'm running stock sleeves.

 
Rep Power: 513

yeah, but you're insane and have a crazy build that we're all jealous of.

 
Rep Power: 123

You can always offer me some cash for it.
I'm not one to walk away when money talks.....

 
Rep Power: 513

I'm content with my 21.5psi at the moment, but I appreciate the offer and love every time you update your build thread