affixrider

iTrader: (3)

Okay so im not so sure how all this is going to go forum wise, but I figured id try it anyway just to see how much help I can get. Here in less then three months I will be returning from Iraq. While I was down here I reenlist and have been saving money for my engine build on my return. So far I have almost a brand new engine (low miles) that has been bored, sleeved and honed already. And I have a greddy ultimate management system. My goal is to reach 450+ hp to the wheels. What I need is some of the experienced people on here advice on all the rest of the parts needed for this, i.e. Type of turbo, manifold, injectors, pistons, cam, rods, flywheel, clutch, ect. Ect. I have right at 10 grand to spend if needed be. I know people say just go ahead with the k20 swap if I have the money, but ive done that to my buddies civic and I wasn’t that impressed with it, plus I like the idea of running the d17 with that much hp. Not a lot of people have that high of numbers. So regardless of your opinions im still going with the d17. so for the few of you running those numbers on here could you please help me out with this information, along with an est. on cost, website, and part number if available. If not ill do my best to look it up. Id like to go ahead and order my parts now so I can have it all ready for me for when I return. During the build process I will take pictures of each step as I go. Thanks in advance for the help.

02BLKCIVIC

iTrader: (8)

youll want Hondata not Greddy.

my .2

ronaldo9

iTrader: (6)

What he said full stand alone for sure to reach those numbers.

affixrider

iTrader: (3)

okay thanks ill get it then

sicma99ot

going with the gt30 turbo?

i cant wait to start my build.

affixrider

iTrader: (3)

yeah thats what i was looking into. it looks like the best option so far. and good luck on your build to

affixrider

iTrader: (3)

someone has got to know what i need for some of these parts...

ryox82

iTrader: (4)

Bump for Andyman to jump in on this one.

sicma99ot

lets see here...some of this stuff is on my list, but im not looking to make 450+
i probibly only want 300 mid/upper 300hp. my build is ganna cost about 3k minus turbo kit and tranny swap.

pnp head
crower stage 3 cam
crower f/i rods (bore)
rc 1000cc injectors
valve upgrade
walbro fuel pump
gt30 turbo
head studs
clutch kit
fly wheel (some say dont go below 12lb, but im not sure bc i have an auto but planning a swap for my build)
3" exhaust/downpipe

thats all i can think of right now. id contact andy (andyman97) or clint (speedfoos) for turbo details.

greeen01civic4d

iTrader: (7)

andyman is the only one to accomplish this as of yet, 489whp.

gt30 will create a problem, gt28 is a better option, but talk to andyman, he knows his ****, seriously

sicma99ot

oh yea get kpro. but you already knew that. without kpro its not even worth building.

sicma99ot

that is true

affixrider

iTrader: (3)

THANKS ALOT MAN. THAT GIVES ME AT LEAST SOME IDEA OF WHAT I NEED. AND YEAH IF ANDYMAN COULD HELP ME OUT ON THIS TOO THAT WOULD BE GREAT. I GOT ANOTHER TRANMISSION FOR MY SETUP, SO ILL BE UPGRADING THAT AS WELL. BUT YOUR THE FIRST THATS TOLD ME NOT TO GO BELOW 12LB. MAYBE SOMEONE CAN CLEAR THAT UP. I ALREADY HAVE AN 8.5LB FLYWHEEL, BUT I CAN GET ANOTHER ONE IF NEED BE. THANKS AGAIN FOR THE INFORMATION. +1 REP FOR YOU

emjay

iTrader: (2)

ok .. since ur so determined and im doing my build ill give u a full response

Bottom end:

Rods: Crower ~$700 / k1 ~$500 bucks .. difference is just foreign vs domestic steel... both quality but jus a price difference

Pistons: Weisco .. if u bored it, u go oversized 75.5mm

Head:

Cam: Crower Stage 2 turbo Cam / or stage 3 if you want to make 450whp, but its a little rough on idle since its so aggressive. ~$400

Valve Train: Crower springs and retainers ~400

Head makes power, so i'd say do the port work while you can.

YOU MUST CHANGE YOUR CRAPPY PLASTIC INTAKE MANIFOLD. JDM fabtech or a d16y8 conversion will solve ur problem, it all depends on ur budget ... 1000 or 300 bucks lol

Fuel, u have to get walbro if u don't already, and go return !

ECU: 100000000% MUST GO WITH STANDALONE, EITHER KPRO with the hondata adjusted cam gear ~$1300 .. or AEM EMS ~1600 ... It all depends on your tuner, and what he's best with. I went with kpro because its more street friendly

Clutch: You have to go with a puck disk for that kind of power, forget any street disk .. Clutchmaster stage 4, Action clutch 6 puck

Injectors: RC 1000cc

Gauges: MUST GET AFR WIDEBAND if u don't have one, MUST MUST MUST MUST AEM is a good one

Exhaust: 3" straight through, either magnaflow 3" straight through muffler or vibrant 3" straight through muffler. Vibrant also makes 3" straight through resonators.

That should cover everything u need with the right turbo and tubular manifold .. 450whp d17 is a must! gt30 is a good one if u need anything else jus ask but that is one complete shopping list

affixrider

iTrader: (3)

THANKS ALOT EMJAY. THIS IS THE KIND OF INFO I WAS LOOKING FOR. AND SOME OF THIS I ALREADY HAVE. IM CURRENTLY TURBO RIGHT NOW WITH A T3/T4 TURBO. BUT IM ONLY PUSHING 196HP. I HAVE THE THREE INCH EXHAUST ALL THE WAY FROM THE HEADERS BACK, AS WELL AS THE P&P HEAD. AS FAR AS THE D16Y8 INTAKE MANIFOLD, IS THAT A DIRECT BOLT ON, IF SO I KNOW SOMEONE WHO IS SELLING ONE AND ILL BE SURE TO JUMP ON THAT DEAL. I WAS TRYING TO GET ONE CUSTOM MADE BECAUSE RIGHT NOW I GOT MY I/C PIPING RUNNING TO THE RIGHT FROM THE THROTLE BODY(STANDING IN FRONT OF THE CAR LOOKING AT IT) BUT I CAN SWITCH IT UP IF I HAVE TO. THANKS AGAIN MAN. THIS INFO IS VERY USEFUL. +1 REP FOR YOU

speedfoos

iTrader: (17)

The Y8 mani is not a direct bolt-on. You have to do some work to get it to fit properly. A lot of work.

There are no problems with a GT30 turbo as long as you make the downpipe correctly. It will be both AC and PS compliant. GT28 is too small for your goals.

Crower cams are not rough on idle if you're running a standalone.

You're stationed at Bragg, right? When you get back from the sandbox and get all you're stuff, I'll help you with the install. I'm PCSing there next month.

affixrider

iTrader: (3)

HEY MAN YEAH THAT SOUNDS GREAT. I COULD USE ALL THE HELP I CAN GET. FAIR WARNING THOUGH, THE ENGINE IS COMPLETLY TAKEN APART RIGHT NOW, SO WE GOT TO START FROM THE GROUND UP. AND ILL ONLY BE BACK AT BRAGG FOR ABOUT 3-5 MONTHS BEFORE MY UNIT HEADS ON TO WASHINGTON. SO IF YOUR CERTAIN THAT WE CAN GET IT DONE WITH YOU THERE, TUNING AND ALL, THEN ID BE MORE THEN HAPPY TO HAVE YOUR HELP. I WAS JUST GOING TO WAIT TILL WASHINGTON, BUT THERE I WOULD HAVE NO HELP. AND THANKS FOR CLEARING UP ALL THE OTHER ADVICEAS FAR AS THE INTAKE, AND IDLE ISSUES.

robbclark1

iTrader: (8)

Foos has had his engine apart more times than real race car . He could probably assemble your engine with his eyes closed. All he needs is some pizza and beer.

Are you being station in Washington State or Washington DC?

emjay

iTrader: (2)

thanks for the rep, im happy i helped .. The y8 is an ok mod in difficulty, its not perfect bolt on but u can make it work. my shop said 6/10 difficulty so its not that bad, and performance wise compared to the d17 he rated it 8.5/10 .. its solid metal that can handle 400whp + it looks better, more vacuum ports, and FREAKING CHEAP

speedfoos

iTrader: (17)

LOL - it sures feels that way Rob!

@ Affix. Couple things.

1. What's your real name?
2. As long as we have all the parts (bearings, gaskets, etc...) we can have your motor together and installed in less than a day.

Do me a favor. Post up a list of everything you have in your possession right now for this build, and don't use ALL CAPS. Post specs of the engine (bore size, etc..) so we know what size pistons you will need.

Do you know the crank and block codes from your motor to get the proper sized bearings?

We don't have to run a $10K build to reach your power goals, but it still won't be cheap. I know a good tuner to take it to as well - Blueridge Motorsports, they're not too far from Bragg.

affixrider

iTrader: (3)

sorry about the all caps deal. i had been checking this site out all day during work. and at work thats how we enter all the info, so i always forget to take it off. my real name is kyle. and yes i have the entire motor. but i am buying all new gaskets and seals. and im sure its not going to run 10k for my build. i was est about 5 or 6. no im not sure what the crank code is. i just now the block is an A2 from an ex model. and as for the bore size, ill look it up. the block right now is at a shop. they are holding onto the block till right before i get back. i also have an extra A2 block. i heard that you dont have to have sleeves in the block so if we dont need it i know someone who is wanting to buy it and well work with the stock block if thats easier for you. just let me know what size pistons, type, and rod size and ill order them. and ill call the shop tomm and find out the specs if you want to work with that. and its good to hear you know alot about engines as well. ive taken mine apart as well as others plenty of times. so we shouldnt have to much trouble with the instalation. as far as parts that i need go. well its pretty much everything. all i have is the motor taken apart, and the 8.5lb flywheel. so as i start buying parts ill make a list for you. thanks again

oh and as for the other person who ask about washington. its washington state.

speedfoos

iTrader: (17)

Cool beans Kyle.

The piston size will depend on the bores in the block, and you're right, you don't need sleeves. Get a hold of the machine shop and ask them what size the bores are now that they honed them. If they are still stock 75mm, then you will just need to get 75mm Wisecos with the same size rings.

You will need to buy all new gaskets, seals, and bearings. It's only $150 for the gaskets and you shouldn't skimp on this unless you already have them. Since the shop already has the block, get the crank and block codes from them and we can get the right set of main bearings from Honda. Your rod bearings will depend on the numbers on the rods once you order them. You can either spend $700 on Crowers or $450 (ish) on the K1s that Dezod carries now, either one will be fine.

So from what I understand you need the following:

- cam, springs, and retainers
- headwork (optional with the cam)
- what turbo mani do you have and are you going to keep it?
- what BOV and WG are you running, keeping them?
- new clutch, FW should be fine
- What tranny work are you having done?
- new injectors
- return fuel conversion (pump, FPR, lines, fittings, rail)
- koyo rad and slim fans
- new turbo and DP

Depending on when you re-deploy to the states, my stuff should be there and I'll have my welder to do the downpipe and whatnot. If you're going to buy a new turbo, get one with a V-band exhaust housing, it's well worth it and makes running a 3" DP and keeping the AC a lot easier. I'll keep on this thread as we go back and forth.

affixrider

iTrader: (3)

yes everything you said is correct as on parts needed. and i will call them tomm. im pretty sure they are still 75mm. and i would like to just order them to be on the safe side since i still have an extra block i can use it with. and as for the bov and wg. i plan on getting new ones. the ones i got know are pretty much useless. and as far as the ransmission goes, i still need to order a new clutch and puck disc. will the 8.5lb flywheel be okay or do i need to get a diferent type? and im trying to find me a new turbo manifold right now. the one i have on my car now is supermexs old log manifold, and its been through hell and back. thanks again for all the quick replies.

speedfoos

iTrader: (17)

OK, here's what I would get if you want the full Monty:

From dezod:
- Dezod EL race mani - $925
- 75mm Wisecos $499
- K1 con rods - $421
- Walbro pump - $92

from atpturbo.com
- Garrett GT3071 .63 A/R with V-band discharge - $1445
- Tial 44mm WG - $375
- GT Turbo install kit - $70

From jeffevanstuning.com
- k-pro with boost solenoid and 4-BAR MAP sensor - $1300 - we'll talk to Andy about this

From Summit
- D16Z6 ARP Head studs - $95
- Aeromotive FPR - $120(ish)
- misc fittings and line -$150 (ish)
- compatible ECU - $250-?? You will have to source this. Check hondata.com for which ones will work.

- pick whatever BOV you want from where ever you want to buy it.

from fast-turbo.com
- Oil feed and return kit for a Aluminum pan and GT turbo - $120

Dunno about your FMIC, charge pipes and all that.

Check my tips and tricks thread in my sig for more details, I can't remember everything off the top of my head right now.

emjay

iTrader: (2)

u hav to get a new manifold if ur going gt30 sell ur setup as one, and replace it with the gt30 and tubular manifold

affixrider

iTrader: (3)

speedfoos man i cant thank you enough. you got me the info a hell of alot quicker then what i thought. its kool that youll also be able to help me get this project together.
well if anything else comes up to mind then just add it. ill start looking everything up first thing tomm and ill let you know everything i order asap. well, its midnight here in iraq and i got to get up at 0500 tomm for a mission . ill check this again tomm afternoon. thanks again for all the info

affixrider

iTrader: (3)

yep thats my plan. its kinda kool that ill be building a entire new engine turbo setup while im still driving my 192hp t3 turbo setup,lol. cant wait to get this project going.

speedfoos

iTrader: (17)

If you got SIPR, hit me your email in PM.

emjay

iTrader: (2)

im sure it will be a successful one

tuningmycivic

iTrader: (11)

damn kyle, i didn't think you'd been gone that long already....hurry up yo!!

we need to get Jay in on this too Clint...