affixrider

iTrader: (3)

lol, it sure as hell feels like it to me. 15 month tours suck. ill be back shortly. we are under our 150 days mark, and as im sure you know,units start packing and sending stuff back at 120 days out.

affixrider

iTrader: (3)

as far as the v band gt30 turbo speedfoos, you got to be more specific for me. the atpturbo.com site hast like 12 different kinds for different applications. just let me know which one i need to get. thanks again

bomerman19

iTrader: (1)

as for things you need to hit 450 you are definitely going to need switch to walbor fuel system (restrictive around 260-280 i think), a crower cam(stock cam gets restrictive around 320) (I advise stage 3 i think it's the nicest), an el mani, and 3 inch exhaust (you might have to say goodbye to your A/C). those are the things that you are going to need to change otherwise you will hit a wall.

I would also advise that you V-band everything that you can it makes life so much easier .

Also there is no reason to sleeve a d17 you can put 32lbs of boost through it and it doesn't effect it but since you already have a sleeved motor I would highly recommend that you over-bore it you can only go so much over-bore with stock sleeves before they become too thin, but with sleeves you can usually bore it out a little more. I believe you can bore out a set of sleeves to .080 over-bore which is huge. you would have to get wiseco to make you a set of pistons to fit it but I think they only charge like an extra $200 over the regular piston price to make you a set but thats not bad. Your displacement would be huge! there's no replacement for displacement!lol

affixrider

iTrader: (3)

thanks for the information, ill keep that in mind when ordering the pistons.

emjay

iTrader: (2)

honestly ??? a d17 crank and sleeves are good for 32 lbs of boost daily driver abused??u don't think its jus kinda something u don't have control over when pushing 450 whp ?? there are a bunch of guys ive heard of who blew fully built motors b/c of the crack with a d16 at 400-420

inthezoneac

450+whp is a lot for a civic. You want like a 9 second civic? 11-12 isn't good enough?

get yourself a built b16, boost it and you'll get those numbers.

affixrider

iTrader: (3)

nah ill stick with my d17. thanks anyway for the .02

bomerman19

iTrader: (1)

First off your not going to break the crank in a honda.

I have seen everything go on hondas from cam shafts snapping in two, to rods and piston shooting out the side of the block the crank won't go it's the strongest thing honda has ever made. In most engine you have to worry about the crank flexing and breaking but since the honda engines are so short the block actually flexes around the crank so the block will always go before the crank does thats why the dart blocks have extra ribbing and support along the side to keep the block from flexing so much. The stock honda crank can handle well over 800hp it should be good to over 1000 and I would bet that it could handle over 1200hp. the girdle, the block, and the crower rods will all go before the crank does.

now as for the sleeves I watched andys gauge go up to 32 lbs of boost and a week later I pulled the head on his car sleeves were perfect head gasket was perfect. **It all comes down to the tune** with that much power you are shoving tons of gas and air into the combustion chamber and if it is tuned right the mixture burns nice and smoothly and the pressure stay very stable and not to high and you will have lots of power.

But If it is not tuned right and you detonate with all of that oxygen and fuel you can at times generate more pressure than a stick of dynamite depending on how much power you are already putting down and the way the engine is built.

mind you, you are also talking about d-16's which have a distributor on them, which means it is a lot harder to tune your ignition timing and you will never be able to get it as nice as a car that has a distributor-less system unless of course you get that really cool k-1 cam/crank trigger (i think thats what it's called) that one of Andy's friends out in Colorado created a couple years back.

If you detonate hard enough or long enough your going to break the motor sleeves or no sleeves so as long as you have a good tune your fine.

Now if he wants to run over 30lbs everyday all the time thats fine as long as he can get his hands on something like c-16 (which if you run it long enough the lead in it will kill your o2 sensors) 93 octane is good for probably around 400-420hp depending on the turbo and the tune. But honestly there is no need for that much power unless your running the 1/4 once you get over 350-375 the car becomes a handful even with an LSD theres just too much torque steer.

Oh on a side note to affixrider I highly recomend if you go for that much power, pull the power steering off the car if you haven't already. The car will be too squirrelly to handle when the boost comes on.

speedfoos

iTrader: (17)

Paul, I'm pretty sure we're going to run a Walbro with return line on this setup, I listed that out on the previous page. I know Andy swears by not running power steering, but I hated my car w/o power steering. It was a real bitch to handle boosting around curves. We'll test the car with and without.

Kyle, in regards to the turbo, here's what you want:

Link for the actual turbo

Now click these options:

- .63 A/R
- T3 Turbine Inlet Flange, 4-bolt GT 3.0" discharge External Wastegate Only (The first one on the housings)
- Scroll down and click the V-band GT Option
- 3.0" Compressor Inlet

That should do it for the turbo. This will be the same one I'm running, aside from the v-band exhaust housing. Spool starts at 3100 RPMS, and I'm at full boost (9.5psi right now) at 3900 RPMs according to yesterdays datalogs.

With that V-band housing we'll easily be able to keep the AC.

Go to siliconeintakes.com and get the t-bolt clamps if you don't have them already and get two sets of 3" v-band weld-on clamp rings and two clamps to make your downpipe. It's up to you if you want to get stainless or mild steel, I can weld either, we just have to match the steel type when you get the tubing for the downpipe.

Head over to here to Mandrel Bending Solutions on Ebay and pick up two pieces of 180° 3" u-bends (again stainless or mild, your choice) to make your downpipe, and also pick up two oxygen sensor bungs (in the Hardware category) to make the DP.

Get some 1.75" mandrel bent tubing from Summit Racing to make your dumptube as well. Up to you whether we leave it open or plumb it in to the exhaust.

Not to be a dick, but I'm going to be doing a lot of work on this setup, so I'm going to have to charge you something - whether that's cash or parts I need is up to you. Think up something fair and PM me. Most folks know I'm not out to make money doing something I enjoy, but the fab time alone on the DP and all that is quite a bit of time.

affixrider

iTrader: (3)

okay the turbo/turbine itself has been bought. thanks for the link. that made it alot easier for me. and yes well will come up with something as far as payment. lol, thats not a problem man. i was just going to wait till i got to meet you in person to discuss it. just let me know what you think is fair. when we finally get to put this whole project, well both be working our asses of to get this thing going. oh and i forgot to ask man. whats your real name? thanks

speedfoos

iTrader: (17)

That's cool Kyle,m you've got PM back. As far as the IC piping goes, that will depend on your FMIC and intake choice. We can either buy a prefab kit or just get the individual bends and fab it up custom. Up to you and your pocket book really.

Oh. Think about how you want to the oil setup. You can either run a sandwich adapter on the filter, oil filter relocation kit with a cooler, or a sandwich adapter to a cooler leaving the oil filter in the stock location. Up to you. I think an oil cooler would be a good idea given the numbers you want to hit.

Also think about a catchcan setup. Standard (PCV and VC hoses just run to a vented catchcan) or a positive vacuum evac setup. First one is easy, second gets a little more complicated, but not by much. I run the second one on mine.

andyman97

iTrader: (14)

**** man, I'd have recommended the 4" compressor inlet with anti-surge on it. I'd call atp real quick like and see if they can adjust your order. The more air the compressor can suck in, the more power it'll make. Trust me, you're going to need that 4" inlet in the top end and you don't want to snap that brand new turbo's shaft, so I say get the surge machining option....

I don't know if that turbo is going to break 450 in the top end. I'd have suggested the 3076 over the 3071, but time will tell....

affixrider

iTrader: (3)

yea ill go ahead and use a sandwich adapter, and ill start looking at the catchcans

andyman97

iTrader: (14)

Intercooler, PWR is the ****. You can get a very efficient vertical flow with endtanks on top and bottom and inlet/outlet same side that will support way more than you will be putting out. Call them and tell them what you need.

Oil cooler, get one. Earl's makes the sandwich adapter plate for feeding and returning to the cooler. And it has a built in t-stat. Very nice piece. I'd also recommend an earl's cooler.

affixrider

iTrader: (3)

yeah i think my old ic is the only thing im going to use in my new project.

speedfoos

iTrader: (17)

I think we're gonna run out of octane before we run out of breath on the turbo Andy. Garrett shows the 3071 is good 475hp, so she should be all right.

As tightly packed as it is with the Dezod EL mani and the WG issues it has with the placement of that big 44mm flange sticking off the side, I didn't recommend the 4" inlet on it. We're going to have a bitch of a time with 3" intake tubing let alone 4".

I didn't know the Earl's sandwich has a thermostat in it, that's sweet. ****, getting the parts list for this build makes me realize how much more I have to add to mine!

I'm gonna go check out the PWR site right now. I've been thinking about a new FMIC for myself as well.

andyman97

iTrader: (14)

Yeah but you're talking 475 on a relatively decent displacement dohc engine. You are right though, he's going to NEED to run race gace to reach 450. I'd hate to see it maxed at like 430 or so though.

speedfoos

iTrader: (17)

Very true. I'll leave it up to him if he wants to change it. The guys at ATP probably won't mind at all.

I'm going with what I know on the 3071. I'll be curious to see how differently our two cars respond from a drivability standpoint. You with the 3076 and me with the 3071.

tuningmycivic

iTrader: (11)

i'm getting left behind....

but reading this all is quite informative.

affixrider

iTrader: (3)

tuningmycivic....nah man your not getting left behind. i cant wait to get back and cruise around town with three turboed 7th gens.

affixrider

iTrader: (3)

pistons and rods have been ordered

affixrider

iTrader: (3)

okay so far this is what i have now:

d17a2 engine

intercooler

gt30 turbo

Wiseco Piston Kit-Civic 01-05 SOHC D17 75mm Bore/8.8:1 Compression ratio

K1 Technologies H-Beam Connecting Rods-D17

Force Fed Concepts D17 Stainless Steel Race Turbo Manifold-Civic 01-05 D17


ill keep adding to this post as i order more parts

speedfoos

iTrader: (17)

Tony, why do you feel left out? Momma put the hammer down on you ****ing with the car anymore?

I don't remember, but do the pistons come with rings? I bought mine used so I had to buy new ones, $40 a ****ing set.

andyman97

iTrader: (14)

Yeah, new sets include rings. We're talking a 4" inlet to the compressor man, not the turbine discharge.

speedfoos

iTrader: (17)

Right. The way that Dezod race mani is setup puts the the WG right in the way of the inlet on the turbo to get it up past the frame rail. I was talking to Drew and he had a grip of issues getting things to work properly because of that WG port.

affixrider

iTrader: (3)

bump, back to the top

going to try and get the wg and bov ordered today. ill let you know clint when i do.

speedfoos

iTrader: (17)

Sounds good man. Make sure you get the -11 PSI spring for the BOV when you order it. Our cars pull about 20-21 in/Hg of vacuum at idle, so that's the spring you will need. Additionally, get the 7 PSI spring for your wastegate as that is the lowest amount of boost you will probably run when using k-pro's boost-by-gear function.

affixrider

iTrader: (3)

alright man sounds good...

Devin Eaton

The lighter you go the more chance you have in breaking your flywheel especially the ebay specials that are " lightweight" they get to much strain and disinigrat then you have more problems then you started with. go with a name brand if it looks to go to be true it is.

pacotaco

k pro fosho your gonna want to build your lower dont forget the arp bolts to hold that head on stage 3 cam weisco low comp, your gonna need to replace your intake try to get one for the d17 like a fabtec injectors your gonna need injectors i think rsx im not shure