JJ291

This is such a long story at this point that it's a waste of time to post the whole thing.

Basically I've replaced every part in my rear brakes (twice) trying to eliminate a vibration that occurs when slowing at high speeds (>55 mph). I can imitate it with the e-brake. I used aftermarket parts to save $$ () and I'm about to purchase all OEM but thought I'd throw this out. I didn't think it was aftermarket because I replaced everything twice...what are the odds they would be bad twice...in addition to turning each set once? Anyway, wheel cylinders are OEM. Can anyone look at these pictures of my brake shoes and give me any ideas? I checked the suspension and wheel bearing and all seems OK. Slight road vibration but nothing that seems like it would cause this. 2001, Civic LX, 155K.

Thanks.

mikey1

the problem probably has nothing to do with your brakes....

most likely a problem with your steering rack

ezone

So this pretty much isolated the problem to the rear of the car, right? (I assume so.)



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I'll just leave this here. See if YOU can figure this out:

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Are the ORIGINAL drums untouched? Reinstall them.
I don't machine drums unless there is an actual problem with them. Machining for no good reason seems to cause more problems than it solves.

JJ291

ezone - yah, I hear you. I'm going to put in all OEM but hate to go that route and find out I got the same problem. I've used aftermarket in the past and have had mixed luck so - yes - I'm an idiot for trying. Sometimes it's still fun to gamble. For what it's worth, I originally replaced the shoes with OEM and could barely get the drum back on even with the adjuster nut down about as low as it could go. Had some vibration so I had them turned. Seemed to get better but vibration returned say 5K later. That's when I started going OEM and it's just gotten worse from there. I guess I'll go back to the beginning and see how I go.

mikey1 - the steering seems OK but I understand your point that it could be something else. I will say that when I pull up the e-brake I can hear it dadadadadada in the rear and I can feel it in the seat and pedal when applying the brakes. Help me understand how the steering rack would cause this so I can troubleshoot it.

ezone

You described the rears there, not steering IMO.

Did the aftermarket drums get resurfaced yet?
Narrow it down to one side or the other?
WARRANTY replacements?
Keep replacing until you get good ones?


It's really rare to see warped original drums from most average people. The ones that consistently warp them are the ones that yank the handbrake while the brakes are still smoking hot......

and my GFs' mother-- who will drive around with the parking brake left on....never noticing the bright red BRAKE idiot light on the dash. Can't accelerate so she pushes the gas pedal harder...clouds of smoke rolling out....

Um, my ex wife did that too....

JJ291

Here's the whole story.

Needed to do my rear struts and change my front brake pads. Made a real bad decision and decided to do the rear also even though they weren't that bad. I learned (and apparently forgot) that you shouldn't do too much at once because if you have a problem you'll be scratching your head (as I am now).

Made an even worse decision and decided to resurface everything so I took them to O'Reilly. Did all that - OEM shoes, pads, O'Reilly resurface and OEM struts. Struts went off by the book with one exception - the Svc manual said to lift the lower arm up to the strut but in my case, I actually had to step on the lower arm and have my kid put the bolt through.

Vibration. Took them back to O'Reilly and was told the original guy didn't do it right had them redone. Slightly less vibration. Went back to O'Reilly, said screw it, bought new drums and put them on.

Was much better if not gone, however, it made some scraping sound so I had to adjust a few times along with e-brake. Seemed fine - just sounded like they were bedding.

5K later - vibration. Tried the e-brake, didn't seem right. Took the drums into Pep Boys for resurfacing and there wasn't enough to resurface, they had worn so thin. Bought new drums, new rotors, new pads, new shoes figuring screw it, I will just make this go away. Seemed fine.

5K later - vibration. Bought new OEM wheel cylinders. Adjusted. Much better but very slight vibration.

5K later - vibration. And here I am. And to be honest, this has been going on so long I'm scratching my head to remember all the story.

Now I know what you're thinking - what about the struts. Yes, I could tear them down but I really don't think that is the issue mainly because when everything is "new and adjusted" it drives fine. The only other thing I thought of and will do tomorrow is I'm going to have my wife drive it on the highway (guinea pig, hehe) and follow in her car and have her brake and e-brake and see if I can actually see anything in the suspension.

In reference to your situation, I feel your pain...those little lights on the dash are just "bling" as far as my wife is concerned. Thanks for your help.

ezone

Lit up like a Christmas tree! Oooh pretty!

They weren't WORN thin, they were cut too much by the last moron at the brake lathe.
You've been "moroned" by a moron.


IF you want to buy factory drums......
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...VIN+Number+---

Or try a junkyard.


The only other thing I can think of that would cause a correctly sized drum to not be mounted straight and true would be rust on the hub flange.

Aftermarket white box- made in China, are just craptacular.

mikey1

you are beating a dead horse....

enough with the brakes and struts....leave them alone....have your steering rack and tie rod ends inspected....thats where your problem is

JJ291

Fellas,

A million apologies - I just realized going through my old threads that I never responded to this post. I changed the brakes with OEM and the vibration immediately showed up in the steering wheel and I mean in a major way...not sure why it seemed to be masked in the rear brakes and why I could imitate it with the e-brake. In any case, changed the outer-tie rods and it is like 99% gone. I think the only mistake I made is I should have changed the whole tie-rod assembly including the inners because it aint much more money and it's cheaper than buying them separately. But in any case, I owe both of you a big thanks for all your help.