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Hello all,
My stepdaughter recently purchased a 2005 DX-VP with 166k on the clock from a used dealer for about $2k. It is a two owner car, and hasn't had any major work done by the dealership it was serviced at for it's lifetime (Schomp Honda in Denver, CO). I come from the high maintenance/high mileage Volvo world, and my wife's relatively maintenance free Subaru has been a nice blessing, so needless to say I am familiar with getting my hands dirty.

I am doing all my stage zero stuff at the moment:
Done:
Power Steering Flush (3x bottles), came up cloudy so gonna do it again next week; was burnt badly
Brake fluid flush (got a new cap on the way - appears the old one doesn't seal all that well....); barely tinted but still decent, not much else noticeable
On Saturday:
Spark plugs
Engine Air Filter
Cabin Air Filter
Trans fluid drain and fill (4qts).
Oil was just changed so that'll be done at 170k (in 4k mi)
Lower control arms
Needs new headlights, so that'll be in order shortly.

Innocuous question - I am assuming these are tuned for 87 octane?
I took it out for a test drive today and discovered two things (besides the obvious horrible feeling of only 100hp):
#1 - 80mph I get a steering wheel shake, not present anywhere else for any reason. Upon my brake flush I noticed the front LCA bushings were lightly torn but mostly dried out and cracking badly. I yanked on the other suspension components so I am safely assuming the dry rotted LCA bushing is the root cause.
#2 - I floored it leaving a gas station and the trans hung out in 1st, the whole time despite being in |D|. I confirmed that my stepdaughter had experienced the same thing. As soon as I let off the gas a bit however, the trans shifts without issue through all 4+OD. It has no issue working it's way up through the gears when I am on a casual on-ramp acceleration. So what would cause a WOT hangout in 1st gear? Any clue what could cause this?

 
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I would pull the shift solenoid off and inspect for grung / worn out rubber.

What happens if you floor it shortly after it shifted to second, does it shift to third under full throttle?

 
Rep Power: 118

And a oh yea, welcome to the forum

Be sure to check exactly what transmission is in there.
You have no idea what some people will “toss” into a car to sell it.

 
Rep Power: 243

Welcome to the forum.

Yep, shift solenoid would be the first thing I would check.

 
Rep Power: 133

Headlights hazing can be restored using a polish kit if that is the issue.
Timing belt, ACC belts, water pump, tensioner, cam/crack seals, thermostat and coolant should be on your list especially if don't know the history. 105k miles or 7 years whichever is first.
These engines are interference types and will ruin valves in no time when the belt goes.
Best to use the OEM NGK spark plugs.
The air filter housing bolts can seize and break off or break the plastic in the housing so beware. Maybe use penetrating oil first?
Read up on head gasket failure on these engines and what to look for as it is quite common.
You might want to consider a couple more drain and fills of Honda DW-1 ATF to smooth out the shifting. But still look at the solenoid screen for debris that would restrict the flow.
Another common issue is the alternator bracket bolts and adjusting bolt coming loose and causing electrical problems and even frying the PCM. These bolts and bracket are the ground for the alt and need good connections.
There's a service manual available on here somewhere too if interested.
This site is probably your best source for anything Civic...

 
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Cool, will do. I will take it for the test drive tomorrow and get an answer to your question. That being said, are there solenoid quality issues that vary with prices? I see things anywhere from $60 to $300, and I think OEM Honda is like $360 for the set? Good to goto brand?
Thank you, +1
Thank you for all the advice. Carfax and Schomp Honda confirm the saw the vehicle regularly for oil changes according to their service records, along with the major services associated with their appropriate mileage intervals. There was only one instance of "Grease Monkey" grade location taking care of it. Only thing that was offset was that the old timing belt was done at 96k, which makes my timing belt job due in about another 30-40k.

I was INCREDIBLY shocked when I looked up headlights and found it would be ~$100 for BOTH, and a single one of my Volvo headlights costs $150. Lower control arms are the same situation. I think when my Volvo goes I may get into the Honda game, certainly save some $$$.

 
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Update:

I popped the solenoid block off today and checked the screen, there wasn't any issues that I could see, screen was clear and had no muck in it.
Put in a new engine air filter today and took her for a test ride - works so much better! trans shifts thorough all it's gears as it should (admittedly it sames to hang in 1st at WOT for a sec too long but otherwise meh). I was able to feasibly get it to 80mph before merging onto the highway as well which was super nice.

I am going to keep an eye on the coolant reservoir - I may have that headgasket issue - fluid level has dropped about 1.5-2" since I filled it up with distilled water (was dry as a bone in the overflow reservoir), however that could be excess air bubbles working their way out. Next week will tell the truth about it.

 
Rep Power: 99

Just had to interject here... Is 4qts the proper amount? Did you check the level afterward to ensure it was good?

When I did my drain and refill, the manual called for 2.9 qts. So I just refilled with 3 qts. But my car is an '05 EX so it may be different. ??

 
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There’s OD on the 2005 DX Auto Trannys?

Whats the rpm supposed to at 60mph, 70 & 80?

If it turns out you got blown head gasket, please keep us updated.