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This wasn't intended to be insulting....
I guess it might be. Maybe the previous post was too. Sorry, not sorry.

If you have new parts on this engine, take them off and transfer them to the next engine IF THE NEXT ENGINE REALLY NEEDS THEM. Timing belt, plugs, wahtevs. But if parts are good, leave them alone. Save the new parts for when they are needed.

Got any soothing sounds (or torching tunes) for a car burning in a roaring fire?

 
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JC: Ring of Fire

 
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Sounds like OP could benefit from a detailed checklist. A one-stop place to know exactly what he needs to check and how, using the process of elimination. This thread got convoluted with information, suggestions, shots in the dark, fire, etc. and could be confusing to follow, for troubleshooting purposes.

Niaboc, maybe start a new thread titled "My overheating checklist" and paste the following checklist in the first post with your findings. We can use that conclusive data to make a cleaner troubleshooting thread than this big mess.

Niaboc's Checklist Rev 01

Tools needed: mechanic's socket/wrench set, compressed air with automotive compression testing kit, paperclips, screw drivers, beer, and music.

Perform these checks/repairs IN ORDER, fight the urge to reason your way out of certain steps with thoughts like "well my mechanic said this was fine" or "i've already replaced this". We need verification from YOU so doooo itttttttt.

1) Are both fans circuits operable? _______ <-- space for checking off

- With factory fan relays in place (check diagram), BOTH radiator fans should turn on when the AC is kicked on. Turn AC on and verify that both fans run.

- Now remove the plug from the fan switch and bridge the two pins on the harness side with a paperclip. BOTH FANS should turn on.

- If it passed both of those checks, your fan WIRING (and fan motors) is good! Let's move to the hardware now.


2) Is your thermostat opening? ________

- You've explained this is the (n)th thermostat, none of them being OEM. We also know the car does NOT overheat with the thermostat removed. Remove the current one and replace with OEM. Ensure it is installed correctly as well.

- You previously explained the lower cooling hose is cold while the upper is hot. Well, look at your picture (below). The thermostat is located at the lower hose connection. When it doesn't open properly, none of that cooler water from the radiator can make its way into the engine to heat up so that hose will stay cool while everything in the engine (and upper hose subsequently) gets very hot. there is no circulation taking place.

- Also take note: Your fan switch is located IN THAT SAME THERMOSTAT HOUSING! When your thermostat stays closed and that housing/hose stays cool, the switch doesn't see hot water so it won't turn the fan on! This is looking like the culprit in my opinion.




3) Is your fan switch good? ________

- If we can conclude you're getting proper water circulation with a properly opening thermostat, your bottom hose should get nice and hot and your fan switch should be seeing that hot water, thus switching the fans ON. IF the hose/housing are hot and you have no fan, you should check the switch.

-There is a way to test the switch, I believe by using a digital multimeter or a test light to probe the connector pins while submerging the sensor tip in heated water (stove). Once it gets up to a certain temperature (I forget the temperature ON at 196-203*F, OFF should be 5-15* below the turn-on temperature) the multimeter or light should show the switch closing. Either the multimeter will go from "open" to ZERO OHMS resistance value, or the light will turn ON to show a closed circuit. May sound confusing due to my poor explanation but it's a very easy check.


4) Is your radiator operable? ______

- This question, I believe has been verified by removing your thermostat and seeing that the car ran cool. If the radiator was clogged, the car would run hot at all times.

5) Is your head gasket blown? _______

- Ezone's method is copy/pasted below. He states half the cars with bad head gaskets will pass all of the normal mechanic checks so he came up with something more convincing.

- Start with a hot engine, pull out plugs and rad cap:
- [using compressed air and fittings from compression test kit] Pressurize each cylinder (@[Top Dead Center], one at a time) with ... air line pressure 150-170+ PSI. Watch for the coolant level to rise when you get to the bad [cylinder]. (sometimes this is a slow process)
-If no results, then wait for the engine to cool down and repeat this same procedure on each cylinder.

If it passes this test, then it's probably ok right now.

A head gasket can fail in any of maybe a dozen different ways. Most people know of 2 or 3 common symptoms to look for (common in other engines anyway), but that's it. .
My check in the overheating thread is specifically tailored to the usual way the head gasket in this engine fails.
TBH it doesn't really prove a head gasket per se, it only proves a breach leaking from a combustion chamber into the water jacket. Teardown and inspection is then needed to visually confirm the head gasket is the cause.


At this point, if you haven't solved the issue OR you've concluded there is a head gasket breach, you're looking at major work/cost. This will at least require cylinder head removal/machining/replacement and gasket replacement with OEM, or entire engine replacement..... The bill could run you 600-1500 bucks. IS YOUR CAR WORTH IT?

If so, there is a head gasket thread to help you with that process. We can make an engine replacement thread if you fall off the deep end.

OTHER USERS: I'm absolutely not the honda expert here so please feel free to add/edit any part of this list and UPDATE THE REV # so NIABOC knows which is the latest Revision to follow.

 
Rep Power: 517

I like it. Edited in blue.
I haven't had much patience for anything this week.

Is it possible to stuff a thermostat in backwards?

 
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It is on most other cars, which absolutely causes a flow issue. I'm not sure about these.

 
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Viewing the linked diagram it looks like the font (hose connected to) of the housing wouldn't be deep enough to accomadate the T-stat in reverse. Plus..doesn't the front of the housing have a notch the thermostat's pin fits in?



If image is incorrect refer to video:

 
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If the stock Honda stat resembles this (goggled) with the large plate on the bottom to seal off the bypass passage when the stat opens.....




Check this out


What happens if the replacement stat isn't capable of doing what it was supposed to here?
What if there were a chunk broke off and stuck in the bypass passage?





So anyway...OP is installing generic stats that might be less complex than a Honda stat...



Think one of these will fit in the housing backwards now?

 
Rep Power: 209

Damn..good call.
With the responsibilty a thermostat has and as inexpensive as they are I don't know why anyone would use anything other than OEM?

I wasn't trying to dispute the possibility of the thermostat being installed in reverse..I was just pointing out how it should be installed and I didn't know about the stubby style aftermarket type. A bit testy lately my man.. ****, I'd be 10x worse in your shoes .

 
Rep Power: 138

That's a good idea, though I remember when I replaced mine, they all resembled the factory style thermostat with the extending disc. Maybe it's still in backward somehow. O.o

OP take a video of you removing the thermostat so we see what direction it's facing. lol

 
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I think he's burnt the car down by now.... lol

 
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I'm having the same issue, the car was fine before it snowed here, after i started the car, it started overheating on neutral, the heater is not working, installed a new thermostat but still having same issue. one hose is extremely hot other is cold, coolant backing up like volcano.