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I'm replacing the head gasket on my DX and as a first timer need some help. Car has 203k miles.

Should I get Fel-Pro MLS or OEM? Are new head studs recommended? Will brakleen and lint free cloth be enough to clean block deck? What straight edge do I get, just find a precision ruler? Lubricate head bolts? If so, with what + how much? Will camshaft need assembly lube? Should I buy remanned cylinder head for $390 shipped or take mine to machine shop? (temp gauge ran up close to high line a few times recently + car is old).

 
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OEM
studs are non-strechable - no need to replace
replacing head depends on the measurements, if you need to ask about what straight edge you need, take to a shop.
lubricating head bolts, camshaft is already in our DIY articles

 
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When taking cylinder head to machine shop to check for flatness, cracks etc is bringing them new valve stem seals to install a no-brainer with high mileage engine? If so, are oem seals required or are there good aftermarket options? Are there any other parts that should be replaced as preventative maintenance while the head is being serviced?

 
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the gasket itself is better OEM.
My head was OK, so don't know the answer for seals, and I bought an OEM kit, so...

 
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Think I'll get a set of Fel-Pro valve stem seals. Car doesn't smoke now but does have over 200k miles.

 
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I replaced my head gasket 1 year ago @ about 155K miles. I bought new valve seals just in case, but the machine shop they were good so I didn't use them. If you choose to have the seals replaced anyway the machine shop cost will increase (not sure how much though).

 
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Approximately how much will a machine shop charge to inspect cylinder head + valves, mill head gasket mating surface if necessary, and change valve stem seals that I supply?

 
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Call and ask, prices vary alot by area

 
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I didn't pull the head yet but should I even bother bringing it to machine shop for inspection IF head is deemed flat using my straight edge and HG does look to be the problem? Because compression test does show good #'s, car doesn't smoke + runs great so valves must be decent. Leakdown test shows air in coolant so most likely it's bad HG or cracked head. Would it be reasonable to assume If HG is indeed bad chances are that's the whole problem or should head get inspected for hairline cracks at the shop anyway?

 
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I would get it checked since you had this problem a year ago and it wasn't fixed properly

 
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No, I didn't have any problems until now but decided I'm going to take head to machine shop anyway.

Anyhow, I just got the cylinder head off. On install should I try to get intake manifold onto cylinder head before tightening head bolts? I'm worried about jostling around an unbolted head sitting on top a new head gasket. I'm going to be using a Fel-Pro MLS

My fuel injectors popped out of the rail but not out of the IM. Is it necessary to remove injectors and replace O-rings or just pop them back into the rail?

I watched a video where the guy lifted the cam shaft up on passenger side so he could slide timing belt off cam gear and that's what I just did myself. However, it seems like an awkward way to put the belt back on and seat the cam in place because the tensioned belt makes the cam want to lift up before cam caps are installed. Plus I'm used to installing cam seals after the caps are on by pressing them in and not by tightening a cap onto top of seal. Should I have any worries about those 2 issues? I definitely rather not take any timing components apart either since timing job was done less than a year ago.

Btw that middle IM nut is a pita even with fuel rail off. Any tips on install?

 
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I would put the manifold on the head before installing the head, as long as you're careful you won't mess up the gasket the dowels will keep everything lined up

 
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Just had a really weird thing happen after removing the Head. A lightning bug landed on me and when I brushed it off it fell right into an oil passage in the block and disappeared. Is that likely to be a problem now?

 
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it will end up nesting in the oil filter.

 
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That what I thought lol!

 
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Hopefully it was a return passage, you can try flushing it down with some oil or brake clean since you'll be doing an oil change anyways. It's shouldn't damage anything though

 
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Ok hold up I’m jumping in here. I haven’t started my job yet.

Why should we put the intake mani on the head first? Seems it would make the install more cumbersome? Is this because of that hidden center bolt?

 
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because it's easier when it is out. The thing that will be a little harder is the things below it, tho, like the knock sensor

 
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I found it more difficult to remove/install the intake manifold by itself than it was to remove/install the head and intake manifold as one piece.

 
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Dropped head off at machine shop, $120 for inspection + milling for flatness. I checked with straight edge and it's warped so does need to be milled. The guy said heads can warp due to the many heat/cool cycles over the course of of it's long life. So apparently even if you never overheat or drive high rpms the head can still warp just from age.

 
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Deleted for clarity.

 
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hunh...
We are starting to get confused who is asking what with two guys using the same thread... post your questions on your own thread, please.

 
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No, I'm the only guy posting here. I just reread the whole thread.

Now I'm almost finished getting everything back together. Since I did timing belt job leas than 1 year ago I marked the belt + cam gear and didn't remove any other timing components besides those. So I was able to slide belt onto cam gear and tilt cam slightly to get bolt in and tighten it. Does anyone see any problems in doing it this way or is that a perfectly acceptable way to do it?

 
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You should be fine as long as you triple checked your marks and marked everything properly. Why didn't you replace belt? Was it done recently?

 
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I just messed up big time. Got everything back together and tried starting car but heard what sounded like only the starter turning. Engine didn't fire or even try to fire. So I stopped cranking the engine to have a look and timing belt jumped many teeth. Then I quickly found the problem which is the cam gear rubbing against motor mount and basically unable to move or very little if that (can't move it by hand). I didn't investigate further yet but appears the cam is not seated properly and sticking out too much. (Cam gear bolt is on and torqued 27 lbs). And it's my fault for being lazy and not wanting to mess with timing side components instead trying to slip t-belt over cam gear by tilting camshaft. That or I installed plastic ?shield? wrong that attaches to the Head on cam gear side. But it does appear camshaft is not situated right.

The plan now is to remove rocker assembly and inspect camshaft + caps for damage. If everything looks ok I'm thinking of just throwing on another timing belt (do t-belt job properly) and see if engine runs decent. If it does I'd compression test soon after to get an idea if valves are still sealing good. (I did a compression test a few weeks ago and numbers showed very good). If it doesn't run good or compression test is bad then there's a potential problem with bent valves. I'd then remove Head and bring back to shop that just inspected + milled for flatness and have them replace valves as needed. But right now I'm going to just slap a new t-belt on (after camshaft inspection) and hope for the best.


Update: after reading advice in other threads I'm going to put a new timing belt on, crank by hand feeling + listening for any problems then compression test. If everything checks out then start the engine and if smooth everything should be fine. First, I do have to check my camshaft to make sure there's no damage to it or corresponding parts.


Update 2:

Finished job and everything seems good with engine running smooth! It appears I didn't have the cam gear bolted on all the way (stupid mistake) so cam gear was rubbing against motor mount. Inspection showed camshaft was in correctly + no damage had occurred. I put a new timing belt on and compression tested before starting with good #'s. Car fired right up and idled smooth! After buttoning up the job took it out on road and engine is purring again. Finally got the job done!

 
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So I finished the job as mentioned above and thought everything was ok but looks like cam seal is leaking. If I mark timing belt + cam gear I know cam gear removal is easy but how about getting cam gear back on with timing belt that hasn't been un-tensioned? Is that fairly easy to accomplish and a perfectly good way to do it? Because I rather not go through the whole process of removing PS ump, alternator, engine mount, crank pulley etc

Btw, how necessary is that black plastic gaurd that's attached to cylinder head just below the cam gear? With that on there it's too hard to see bottom of cam seal for leak inspections.

 
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did you put a sealant at the sharp edges of the valve cover gasket around the camshaft?

 
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The oil leak was a bad cam seal and today removed timing belt components and put new Fel-Pro seal in. So this is the 3rd time in less than a year doing timing belt job and I'm basically a pro at it now lol. I had already modified upper timing cover so no need to remove valve cover to get it off either.

 
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personally, I never did put the upper cam gear cover back...

 
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I like the salmom color of Fel-Pro cam seal because when you look at it you can see easier if oil is leaking. Looks like I solved my problem anyhow.


Btw on timing belt job is the procedure:

1) put tensioner pulley on but have it loose
2) put t-belt on
3) tension spring on over pin
4) counter rotate engine + check marks
5) tighten tensioner pulley bolt
6) pull grenade pin

That's how I did it. Hope it's correct. Ok just looked at online FSM and seems to be good.