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I was replacing my 2002 civic 1.7 timing belt and water pump. 3 bolts on the water pump came out fine, 4th one (the short bolt) broke with barely any torque. Of course it broke flush. It hasn't been changed since new (17 years ago).
I was able to drill into the broken bolt and insert an bolt extractor. The extractor broke of flush as well.
I can't drill out the hard steel of the extractor and now I am at a loss as to what to do. Should I take it to a shop? What can they do? Should I just try 3 bolts and has anyone tried this?

Thanks

 
Rep Power: 225

Ouch. Sorry to hear that. It's really up to you if you want to try three bolts, personally I may but only if I'm the only one driving it and I had a backup vehicle. Keep in mind that if it doesn't work it's quite a bit of work to get back to.

Taking it to a machine shop is an option but that's quite a bit of work to get the engine out too. I recently saw an article of someone who had a bolt break flush with the block then had an extractor tool break inside as well. They ended up taking a grinding bit in a Dremel to grind extractor tool down, they had to use four of the grinding bits and loads of patience before finally making it through. After that I believe they drilled the remainder of the broke bolt out then tapped the hole for a larger size bolt. Broken bolts are never fun

 
Rep Power: 120

Yea a dremel with just a “nub” of friction disc should be able to cut a grove in it.

Don’t try to just center on the bolt, center the cut first on the block/bolt intersection “AWAY” from the sealing surface.

Yes, you will slice into the block like butter and that will help you control the dremel as you push it into the bolt.
What will seem like a huge gouge in the block should infact only be 1-2 threads deep and not really do any structural damage.

Once you have a grove on it, hit it with some heat, not a lot, then try a simple screwdriver to get bolt out.

Next time I have a flush broken bolt I plan to dremel out a small finger on a oscillation blade and try that to cut directly into the bolt. Those multitools really live up to the name.

 
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Thanks, never thought of the dremel and cutting a groove in it for a screw driver If only I had more then 5" of space between the engine and unibody

 
Rep Power: 120

If you also unbolt the transmission mount so you can jack the engine up till the pulley hits the frame.giving yourself few precious inches more space and a better angle.

 
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I was able to drill into the bolt with a right-angle drill. However, I broke the extraction tool flush with the block. So I just bolted the new water pump on with 3 of 4 NEW bolts, filled the bolt hole with epoxy, then inserted the broken bolt (cut the end at a 45 degree angle for better contact with the epoxy), let it cure over night and hope it will keep the corner of the water pump secured.
So far so good

 
Rep Power: 230

Do not run 3 bolts!

did that myself and after 3 months the timing belt snapped from coolant dripping on it.


-remove all mounts but the transmission mount, tilt engine down, to access.
-quality drill bit (carbide tipped), for primer hole.
Low pressure, high rpm
- screw type bolt extractor, make sure to rotate it CCW, in the loosening direction.

(not sure if the one bellow is a good brand, but that's the type of tool I used)

 
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Yeah but did you use epoxy? It is super strong
That is the same type of extractor I used and it snapped off in the block. I wouldn't be able to drill that hardened steel out. I would just end up chewing up the mounting surface i think

Maybe I should insert a tiny camera in the top cover through the camshaft sensor hole to inspect the pump in a few months and see if there are any leaks. Or drill a hole in the cover.

 
Rep Power: 230

No epoxy. (Why did you use epoxy/where?)

I'm not sure how you broke the extractor, there should be almost no resistance, since these bolts are basically hand tight torque, choked up on a ratchet.

you're drilling/extracting with a straight path to the bolt right?

 
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Bolt broke because of corrosion I am guessing as the old pump was seeping for who know how many years. Remember, this is a 17 year old car that has never had a timing belt or water pump done.
The bolt was drilled out straight. Just that the bolt is so small in diameter I used a small extractor that just didn't have much strength. The extractor snapped with so little force, it was like it was made of glass.

I used epoxy to fill the bolt hole on the pump itself (flush to both front and back). Then the new pump was mounted with the 3 bolts and torqued and then I pressed in the short cut bolt (the end of the bolt was cut at a 45 angle to make better contact with the epoxy) in the hole that is filled with epoxy -- like an epoxy bolt so-to-speak. The idea is that the epoxy will make contact with the broken bolt/extractor and make a mechanical bond that just needs to hold the pump in place in that corner. That was the idea, hope it makes sense. Mostly I hope it actually works

I may drill a large access hole in the timing cover to view the water pump and a rubber grommet to close up the hole to keep an eye on it -- any leaking coolant. I would need a fiber optic camera to see inside the hole for the cam sensor I think regardless. Just an idea

 
Rep Power: 230

Oh, I see

hopefully it works.

 
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I'll be keeping an eye on it and posting here success or failure

 
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I changed the water pump on my son 2005 Honda Civic last weekend.And when I put the new one on. I make a big mistake by over tighten the bolts.So the shortest one broken off. I were so pissed at my that day. But had to clam down and just walk away from it. After a day later I watched so many videos on YouTube how to get it off. But there no video talking about the Civic though. Anyway I take a chance to order the mini angel drill plus the easy out tools. Just to see if I can finish up the job.The issue is the space are so tight. But I didn’t give up it took me about an hour just to get that broken bolt off. So if you decide to change the water pump yourself and come across the same issue. Don’t give up