Rep Power: 0

I seem to have to add a quart or so a week. I changed the valve cover gasket/valve seals and all that which was leaking before and confirmed not leaking there after doing the job. No oil leaks on to the ground. This car has 233,000km on it. I noticed if i hit the gas hard on it a little blue/black smoke will puff out, none at idle or regular driving. This cars engine runs phenomenal and the car is generally in great shape for its age. The car sat for a few months in the owners driveway before i bought it.

Could it be a pcv valve? Stuck piston rings? Also no oil in coolant and no coolant in the oil.

I ordered a pcv valve for the hell of it as they were only a few bucks. Also changed oil filter, air filter, spark plugs, cabin filters..tried lucas fuel treatment and oil treatment and no change was noticed. Any help would be appreciated!

 
Rep Power: 222

the oil rings are probably stuck, you can re-ring the engine with the engine still in the car
what oil are you using? you can try switching to a good 0w20 synthetic oil and it may help reduce the burning.
I noticed an improvement in my old car, but my burning wasn't as bad as yours

 
Rep Power: 0

I was using the recommended 5w20. However i just added another bottle of lucas stop leak and a quart of 10w30 to see if it will make any difference. Im pretty handy with cars and my dad is a red seal mechanic but he's into classic cars and doesn't quite know it all about these era cars but he usually figures it out. He thinks rings as well. I can't find a good video of how to replace the rings w/o removing the motor.

 
Rep Power: 222

remove head, remove oil pan, remove pistons.
should be able to find head and oil pan videos, or there's diy articles for those on here, there's also a link for a pdf copy of the service manual as well.
replace the head gasket, timing belt, tensioner, and water pump while you have it all apart. use oem honda parts

 
Rep Power: 0

Yep I actually have the water pump and timing belt just never did it yet. Waiting on the haynes manual to come in the mail. A lot of youtube videos people think they know what they are doing but make a lot of mistakes and often don't show how difficult some things are to get apart. Bolts are never seized in youtube videos, and everything magically comes apart so easy lol took my manifold off and put a header on... what a **** job that was took me 2 days and lots of heat to not ruin the bolts and studs.

 
Rep Power: 118

Sounds exactly like your oil control rings have been clogged up with sludge which then further cooks into concrete like rock.

I played around with different chemicals trying to clean mine, but still ended up using toothpick and toothbrush to clean out every little crevice.

Imagine ring of bent steel that looks like “WWWWWWWWWWWWW” all the way around with concrete stuck all inside it.

That experience is why I believe the more additives you have in the oil such as high mileage oils the more likely this occurs because I was using chemicals that dissolve normal carbon and my rings were still full of large particles of “something else”.

Also, your killing you catalytic converter by dumping that much oil into it.

 
Rep Power: 0

No converter on this car, stainless steel header in place of it.

 
Rep Power: 0

Changed the pcv valve. The old one was free and seemed to be functioning.

 
Rep Power: 229

That is true for burning due to heat, especially for boosted and high compression engines, but not for burning oil due to worn parts.

A 0w20 oil us far thinner than a 5w20 when cold. So if the valve seals are leaking over night, 0w20 would leak worse.

The right direction to go is thicker.

-5w20 high milage
-5w30 high mileage
-10w30 high mileage
-10w30 high mileage with stop leak/burn

 
Rep Power: 0

Yeah ive used 10w30 in civics before, no issues in summer time. Not the best oil to put in during the cold winter months when it calls for 5w20 though. Im going to pour some seafoam into the cylinders and see if i can free anything up if they are stuck