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coolant connector hose in rear (water pump to thermostat) [solved]
The small hose connecting the two connector pipes from water pump to thermostat sprung a leak on our 2001 EX. It looked like a head gasket, because water was streaming down the block, but after removing the resonator chamber and air filter case, the leak was visible.
Now I'm trying to remove the old hose and replace it. I opted to get the OEM hose from Honda as that would be the correct length, thickness, and more likely to last 19 years as its predecessor did. I plan to replace the spring-tab hose clamps with screw-down stainless versions, as they are much easier to place and tighten.
Anyone have tips for this? I am hoping not to disturb the two connector pipes (from water pump, and to thermostat) because I'd likely need to replace the o-rings on each. I have considered removing the whole thermostat base block, held on by what looks like three bolts, but then I'd have to re-gasket that connection as well.
The part being replaced here is Honda 19503-PLC-000, number 9 in the illustration. It's a lot easier to access in the parts diagram than on the actual car:
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re: coolant connector hose in rear (water pump to thermostat) [solved]
Original style spring clamps are normally far superior to any other clamp
buy O ring #8, unbolt pipe #7 and pull (pry?) it out of the housing so you can work with and replace hose #9....replace o ring #8 before reinstalling pipe #7
re: coolant connector hose in rear (water pump to thermostat) [solved]
Your suggestion is what I ended up doing, except for replacing the o-ring which I did not buy. The pipe connection into the thermostat housing was snug,but after some working back and forth it broke free. I was a snug fit back in when I replaced it. I'll definitely be watching that union for leaks, though.
I used my screw-down clamps and I realized it's difficult to know how tight to torque the screw/nut (the clamps have a combination flat-head screwdriver slot and a 5/16" nut head). The spring clamps apply the OEM clamping force when they're released in place That's another advantage of the spring clamps. I saved them in case there's a next time.
I may need to replace that o-ring, but so far no leaking after warm-up and pressurizing the system.
General tip: A YouTube video cautions against using aftermarket versions of the o-ring. He had to go back and replace with OEM. For most gaskets and rubber fittings, I stay with OEM where possible.
re: coolant connector hose in rear (water pump to thermostat) [solved]
Originally Posted by wistlo
Your suggestion is what I ended up doing, except for replacing the o-ring which I did not buy. The pipe connection into the thermostat housing was snug,but after some working back and forth it broke free. I was a snug fit back in when I replaced it. I'll definitely be watching that union for leaks, though.
I used my screw-down clamps and I realized it's difficult to know how tight to torque the screw/nut (the clamps have a combination flat-head screwdriver slot and a 5/16" nut head). The spring clamps apply the OEM clamping force when they're released in place That's another advantage of the spring clamps. I saved them in case there's a next time.
I may need to replace that o-ring, but so far no leaking after warm-up and pressurizing the system.
General tip: A YouTube video cautions against using aftermarket versions of the o-ring. He had to go back and replace with OEM. For most gaskets and rubber fittings, I stay with OEM where possible.
do you happen to have a link or part number to that o ring?
