Rep Power: 202

These are for the bolts passing through the metal gasket (item #9) as shown in the drawing and into the cylinder block, just below the cylinder head. The Factory Service Manual does not seem to have the torque specs. Others on the net say the same. They are 8 mm diameter bolts and nuts, five altogether.

This site suggests a certain Honda's water passage bolts are torqued to 33 ft-lbs, and water outlet bolts and nuts are torqued to 16 ft-lbs: http://www.collegehillshonda.com/ins...rque_specs.pdf

This generic guide says apply about 19 ft-lbs (dry) of torque for an 8 mm diameter bolt: http://www.xrfchassis.com/images/PDF...ence_Chart.pdf

These Porsche head gasket changeout instructions say 19 ft-lbs for any 8 mm bolts:
http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/cyl-02.htm

The intake manifold is attached to the cylinder head with 8 mm nuts and bolts, torque spec 17 ft-lbs.
The exhaust manifold is attached to the cylinder head with 8 mm nuts and bolts, torque spec 23 ft-lbs.

This guy said he went to 28 ft-lbs on his 7th generation Civic: http://www.7thgenhonda.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=118353

We're bolting into aluminum, right?

What do people here think?

<img src="http://www.hondapartsnow.com/diagrams/large/water-pump-sensor-2151675.png" alt="2003 Honda Civic 2 Door LX KA 5MT Water Pump - Sensor"/>

 
Rep Power: 518

I'd go with 16 ft-lb as my guess. The goal is to make the gasket seal, and the bolts and the part not fall out.

It's not like a wheel is gonna fall off if you don't get these bolts tight enough

 
Rep Power: 202

ezone, thank you. I do not want coolant to leak out. I am not sure what kind of pressures and temps these bolts and nuts see.