Rep Power: 0

2002 EX Auto

The good news is that my previous repairs (timing belt, oil pan/pump, steering rack) all seem to have gone great. The bad news is that I still have an oil leak. I thought it was still the pan seal but once I got in there it looked fine and it seems the oil is coming from higher up. Specifically the back right. The valve cover looks fine all around though and there isn't anything below the cam cap.

Then I found this thread: https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...-oil-leak.html

The symptoms seemed to match pretty well, oil on the front and back of the transmission. I took off the filter box and it definitely seems that the solenoid is the highest thing that looks wet with oil.

I haven't taken it off yet because I assume I'll need to go get some parts. I have a few questions for anyone who's seen this problem before:

1. It looks like it is just the three bolts on the back, any tips on getting at the bottom one?

2. If I remove the valve assembly should I replace the gasket/filter (#10) whether it's the problem or not?



3. I'm not sure if I understood the problem in the other thread. Was it that if you remove the solenoid from the valve body (top three bolts?) there is another non replaceable gasket that was cracked?

4. If that turns out to be the case is the only solution to replace the whole assembly? The guys solution was to use ultra grey which was exactly what the thread told him not to do.

Thanks

 
Rep Power: 517

Look up the VTEC solenoid for a much older car.... say a 93 with VTEC. The gasket is still available BUT I am not positive it is still the same. It is the same between 5th and 6th gens, but I haven't been able to verify if 7th gen uses the same one.


#15 in this diagram

 
Rep Power: 511

Really, you'd only have to replace the entire assembly if you your car is throwing a VTEC CEL (you'd know it because your car would be in limp mode once you hit the VTEC setpoint after the initial error). You can take the solenoid off without any issue, especially if you want to inspect it. I still have my original solenoid gasket/screen (#10 on the excerpt of the drawing you included), and I've removed and replaced it serveral times. One of those times, the screen was borderline clogged with metal shavings.

If you worry that a failure of the gasket is the issue, it wouldn't hurt to have a spare one on hand. Part size to cost ratio kinda sucks though, so it's really up to you.

First, though, I'd wipe up all, and I mean all of the oil surrounding the vtec solenoid where it contacts the cylinder head, drive around for a good while, then perform another visual inspection to try and pinpoint the leak source.

 
Rep Power: 0

The solenoid gasket definitely looks similar to the older models. The filter gasket is the same from 96-05 so I would imagine the solenoid gasket is also the same. I'll get one and try it.

Is there anything else in that same area other than the valve cover that the oil could be leaking from?

 
Rep Power: 517

Anything that has rubber seals.
VTEC, valve cover, and that round bore plug where the distributor would go. On the front end, there are the cam and crank seals and the oil pump O ring.

VTEC has full system oil pressure behind it so it's usually the first one to leak when the rubber hardens, and it can leak A LOT if ignored.
I've even witnessed one that poured oil out when cold, then abruptly stopped leaking as the engine warmed up.


Clean and dry, use brake clean to wash the mess off, then throw a coating of powder (cheap bath talc, Right Guard spray) on the area to help show where the leak comes from.


And hey, report back if the top gasket from the older vtec valve works with your 7th gen so I can update my notes. Thanks

 
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I got all of those seals except for the cam plug and there wasn't anything under it. It definitely seems like the back corner. Also it seemed like it lost a lot at a time and now that you mention it it lost less when I was in warmer places. The VTEC seems likely.

I've already taken it off. I'll let you know if the gasket works out.

Any idea about torque specs for the top bolts or the ones to attach it to the head? How tight do I need to make them? I couldn't find it in the manual.

 
Rep Power: 517

Common sense should tell you "not much". LOL
Quarter drive ratchet, don't go all gorilla on it or you will break stuff.

They are 6mm bolts top and bottom, so in theory they should use the same spec.

Reality would be only tight enough to squash the rubber gasket and not let the bolts back out on their own.



Real spec on the long bolts is 7.2 ft-lb, which equals about 86 inch-pounds. Should be safe to use that spec on all 6 bolts.

HTH

 
Rep Power: 199

OMG ezone, should be alright. Don't you know that every car has somewhere North of 9 million tourqe specs. (sarcasm intended)

 
Rep Power: 0

Thanks, I probably would have ended up putting them on too tight.

The new gasket looks like a perfect fit.


GASKET, SOLENOID BASE
Part# : 36172-P08-015

Also the old gaskets do look dried out and are cracking so hopefully this will finally keep my engine clean.

Thanks for the help.

 
Rep Power: 517

Thanks for the update!

 
Rep Power: 0

Well the car runs. I took it out on the highway and got it up over 5k rpms and didn't get any codes or have anything weird happen so I think I at least didn't break it. It didn't look like anything leaked but I think it's still too soon to tell.

 
Rep Power: 149

FWIW if the cam seal plug o-ring is not sealing it will leave a puddle of oil on the shelf below it. It'll drip down the side and you'll have oil all over the underside...