Rep Power: 0

So, my CEL came on a little while back, right I just had the head rebuilt to replace the valves. I took it back, and the code p1456 came up. He told me to replace the gas cap. So I've ordered one and it's on the way. But it's running like crap, worse and worse every day. It's chugging while I am idling, but even feels like it a lil while driving. It sounded like it's about to stall when I would be stopped. Now this morning, it actually did stall while I was in the middle of driving, a couple of times. It'll start back up luckily, but afraid to make any long trips if its gonna keep getting worse. So frustrated since I just dropped a grip rebuilding the head and it is running worse than before. My gas mileage is getting worse too.

And I don't know if it's related but my check oil light keeps coming on and off lately too. I'll check it and it will be super low. I just added oil two weeks ago and it's low again. It's using up tons of oil now, and its not leaking on the ground, so I guess it's burning it? If anyone has any insight, I'd appreciate it. Anything I can fix myself or do I need to pay and arm and leg to take it back to the shop?

Thanks.

 
Rep Power: 208

i think you need to provide more information,

explain in detail the past history of the car, what break downs occured, and what repairs have been done and when

 
Rep Power: 0

I've had about a year, the head needed to be rebuilt when the CEL came on and I had it checked out by a few different shops. They found the valves to be bad... But it never broke down, it just had low compression. It did burn oil a little before, but nothing as bad as now. And the p1456 never came up before until after I got it back from the shop for the rebuild. What else do u need to know? It's a 99 Honda civic lx, 5 speed...

 
Rep Power: 0

I just find it hard to believe all this would be caused by a gas cap. But then again, I'm no expert. My bf says it's cuz I use cheap gas, but I've used cheap gas for over 10 years, every car and never had a problem before...

 
Rep Power: 0

Someone please help. My 98 Accord keeps dying on me also. Can this P1456 code make it die

 
Rep Power: 221

So do what the post you quoted says, give us more info

 
Rep Power: 0

Replace replace timing belt, balance shaft belt, idler pulleys, water pump, lower timing belt cover , air conditioner alternator drive belt, camshaft and crankshaft seals replaced, VVT solenoids, front motor mount spark plugs, coolant was replaced and installed with water pump system was checked for leaks none found. Oil was topped off with no leaks found, fuel gauge was checked and we connected and now operates it was stuck at one point. But here recently I think the rear main seal is leaking now I didn't replace that because we do not take the motor out of the car.The driver door actuater,is locked and I can't open it. Cars been cutting out over the last 3mon. I thought it was the battery corrioted and it was cleaned/ terminal
Its gotten alot worse. It happened 5times today. I can let it sit for 10/20min. And it'll start up again. Really frustrated and concerned. I have to get on the highway every day to get to work, and I break down every day.SUCKS!!!

 
Rep Power: 221

What does the car do when it shuts off?
Does it act like you turned the key off?
Like it runs out of gas?
Any lights on the dash? Gauges showing abnormal readings?

 
Rep Power: 118

Sure sounds like a failing crankshaft sensor., I expect if you could get list of “ALL” the codes the ECU has stored you will have more than just a 1456 because that will not shut down the car.

You can remove the door panel with the door locked shut, it’s not pretty as your going to want extra hand or two pulling up from the outside but basically your going to pull it off the clips, taking driver seat out makes access way easier..

Only once did I have a actuator that was completely jammed,, had to get primitive on it until it was in enough pieces....

 
Rep Power: 0

Yes, it's like I just turned the key off. When it happens the Speedo and the Tach fling to the right and dies. Then it won't start for 10/20 min.. it just cranks and don't start like it's not getting fuel or no spark. Engine light on and. brake light as well

 
Rep Power: 221

bad ignition switch possibly? do testing before just throwing parts at it

 
Rep Power: 0

thanks Colin